The flip side is if the swap is done right LS reliability!

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Most LS swaps consist of a 500 dollar junkyard engine, gapped rings, cam and a turbo (maybe). If people want to make power, they grab the gen4 stuff. I could have done all that and made 800hp all day rear wheel. Heck, my buddy with the twin turbo G8 made over 1000whp doing the items I mentioned.

Personally, I don't want anything to do with the junkyard engine scene (although my block technically is). Heck, I think I would do the same lunatic build if it was a 2J, RB, VQ etc... overbuild to the moon. I literally did the same thing to a moped I rebuilt. When it was done, I tested it out. My 1984 QT50 that originally went 20mph went 65mph on a 65cc engine.... it was terrifying. The shocks were not upgraded and neither were the brakes (it's getting detuned). Point being, I feel like this is just what I do. Although, I'm attempting to make my car somewhat well rounded.

Not sure if I mentioned this or not, but I will be using CO2 with my waste gates MS3 can be set up with CO2 to make the driving experience mild (gate springs at 3lbs) to wild by holding the dome closed on gates to build 40lbs (aka holy sh1t mode).

I like the idea of a Corvette but I would never own one. I LOVE the way a 370z looks and I always find myself drooling over the bodylines, even to this day. The devalued state of the 370z, American muscle and experts that I can lean on for my build made it an easier choice.

Short story... I'd be up to my eyeballs in any direction.

Bro, what you're doing is actually legendary. Legitimately inspiring.

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It's not often you get a chance to see a build like this from the very beginning. And to see everything. From the progress to the set backs, and working through them. :tup: A build like this boarders on OCD and lunacy. You learn about how to do things plus you learn about yourself.

Part 1

Well. I made a bracket for the water pump. I've got to say, it was a real pain in the d1ck to make. It took about 12 hours of paper cutting, welding, grinding and painting to produce the bolt on portion to the car. I have the Part 2 pictures but the photos have not sync with my photo share for some reason. I'll post those later.

Not entirely sure what to say other than it really was labor intensive to make an angled bracket. My buddy with the G8 said he used aluminum and bent the metal. Not sure I would recommend my method to anyone, although I like the result.

Looks like I may have to swap the -20 straight connect on the pump to a 90 or possible a 180. The hose either needs to run at the top of the bar or at the bottom. I think I'm going to try getting the hose lined up at the base of the V on the radiator. I think I made up my mind while typing the last sentence out. That's not a great approach while buying 30 dollar connecters btw. There's two -16 connectors I haven't used and I groan every time I see them. I'll try to find a use for them later.

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Part 2

I had to pick up some rubber isolators. A fella that I know, who also uses the same pump, informed me that the pump fails if it is hard mounted. Luckily, the hardware store was right on the way to the shop. Disaster averted. Davis Craig water pumps are not cheap.

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75% of the coolant lines are ran. The entire routing changed due to the stubborn lines needing a large radius to make a bend with out using a fitting. The -16 180 was taken from the water pump and applied to the radiator for a test route. Turns out it worked perfect so I will need to purchase another -16 180.

One small hang-up is the routing of line near the cold side of the turbo. Not necessarily a hang-up. I just need a hose guide so they don't rub all over the cold side. I need a few hose guides all over. This might be a project for my buddy who has a 3d printer.

I discovered a big deal last night. I grabbed the intercooler and started to position it near the radiator. Turns out that the coolant overflow and oil catch can encroach into valuable space used by the A2W IC. *sigh* What ever. I'll make room. I keep all options on the table.

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You might be better off by making some of the lines hard piped.

That's a great idea. Especially for the -20 side! The -20 was getting me nervous after last night. Crazy thing is, I have seen it done on my buddy's race car. Not sure why I went down a rabbit hole where it wasn't an option.

The -16 lines should be fine. But if not... MAN. I'm really happy you chimed in with that Rusty! :tiphat:

I have 3 -16 straight connects that will come in handy!

Oh, random update. I found out that the guy making my oil pan came out for additional measurements yesterday. He is fully engaged now! Super excited about having a rear sump oil pan. Most everyone uses front sump with LS swaps. I don't think a rear sump is even available for the 370.

You should try and keep your length of hose to a minimum. ;)

Ordered -10 hose, -10 orb, -10 straight connect. and -10 90deg connect for my oil catch can as well as the last fitting for the coolant system. ... 250 bucks later ... I should be able to complete the cooling system and the catch system. Luckly I only need a few bits for the fuel system and oil system, Fragola/Earls must own an empire!

Hopefully the fittings get here tomorrow... Although, I doubt it.

I ended up going to Alro, metal company, to pick up aluminum tubing. Just incase I want to tack some aluminum AN bungs in and make some hard line. It doesn't look like I will. But.... Options, ya know. Things clearly change quickly.

So what's next.... The radiator needs the lower mount. Previously, aluminum 1.5" angle was cut to length of the aluminum core support. Mounting holes need to be drilled and a riv-nut will be used on aluminum angle. Come to think of it, I could have used a riv-nut on the steel upper, but I was in weld mode and just tacked a nut into the steel.

Aluminum 1.5" angle will be tacked on toe the lower aluminum core support. This might be my first experience into TIG welding aluminum. (prepare for a train wreck). yes, I will practice first on similar aluminum. Also, by buddy will be there to help.

Below is the GIGANTIC -20 line. best spot is right under the plastic air duct on the bumper. Turns out there is enough room for it. I had to test fit and cut the tubing a few times. Let me tell you why... other than needing it to fit. 5' of -20 is 90 bucks. Let that sink in for a moment. SOooooOOooooo....... I was kicking my own *** after Rusty said "use some hard line". 4' of aluminum 1 3/4 was 7 dollars and a -20 weldable bung is 12 dollars.

The more you know.... Please God, I hope someone reads this and uses this slice of information.

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Tig welding aluminum. The weld area has to be clean. Wipe the area down with alcohol at least a half inch back. And then wire brush the chit out of the areas to be welded.

Which color banded tungsten you going to use?

Need to form a nice round ball on the end of the tungsten. If I remember right. DC straight will do it. If it's a narrow bead. A taper tungsten with a flat point will work.

At the end of the weld. Move the tungsten off center of the weld puddle to prevent the puddle center from getting a crack in it before you stop the arc.

I can't answer any of your questions at this time. I literally know nothing about TIG. I'll report back.

10-4 on clean surface.

Tig welding is like brazing. Instead of a torch with a gas flame. You have an electric arc.

Get your arc started, and heat up the end of the rod by holding it just outside of the arc. Then you can dip the rod in. When you're good. The bead will look like dimes. :tup: Mine look like nickles. :shakes head: