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IG@gbrettin
Installed @z1motorsports subframe collars and @royaltyperformancellc diff brace. Cleaned up the subframe enough until I send it off to powder coating some other year. One of the bolts broke off on my car, because why not... it was hot hot hot! Inside the shop today too. Also, I took a bunch of video of doing both installs just to try it out. I'll edit it and throw it on YouTube, maybe. It's mostly me swearing at the car and bad video angles. ��. #z1motorsports #royaltyperformance #370z #ls370z ------------------------- I put in comments inn between the photos on this one. Black Sheep Industries unboxing https://0bqgxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://0bqhxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://0bqfxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none New exhaust hanger https://0rqfxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none Z1 Subframe install and Royalty Performance diff brace Install Removed Exhaust https://y7qjxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none Installed RP brace incorrect the first go. Use a 17mm spanner to hold the backside of the nut to the hole so the brace can be bolted it. I was a dummy and struggled for a long while, don't do that. It's a 5-10min job once the car is on the hoist. I have a lengthy video of what not to do. https://zrqfxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://zrqixw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://zrqhxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none The surface rust, which is minimal for MI cars, was sending me into a panic attack. I ended up wire brushing the frame connectors and painting. I'm going to have all the components powder coated. I have a question for you guys (and I will end up researching shortly). What options are there for replacements? I’m not worried about the subframe specifically. Does SPL have replacement parts for all the pieces shown on the ground? And if you are wondering if the car has ever seen salt, the answer is yes. I was forced to drive the car ONE winter season. I had to and it is what it is. The damage on this car was from ONE year and it pisses me off. I guess if you see people bucking up about driving their Z cars all year you can show them these pictures. https://zrqlxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none Nissan did not use grade 8 fasteners. Look at the crazy build up on the one bolt. One bolt sheerd right off due to loss of strength. I had to goto the hardware store to find replacements, which is always a PITA in the middle of a project. The replacement bolts are M10 1.25 thread pitch if anyone has the same issue. Get grade 8 bolts if possible. I ended up with grade 7. I sourced a lug nut from the bolt bin and sanded down the bolt that was sticking out. The lug was welded to the bolt, a lot of weld. Didn't want to take any chances of it breaking again. The heat from the weld also helped free up the bolt to get it out. All threads were chased and lubed up. https://zrqoxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://zbqlxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://zbqnxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none Painted items https://zbqkxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://0lqgxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://0lqfxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none I used a rubber mallet to bang in the collars on the bottom side, there's only two of them. The top collars drop in. It's an easy install when you’re not tweaking about other parts of your car. https://zbqjxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://0lqhxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://0lqixw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
I didnt know there was a diff brace that didnt have to get all hacked up for the FI exhaust. :tup: Thanks!
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You know that car has metric bolts, mostly grade 10.9 & I’ve seen some 12.9’s
At work we have a bin with 8.8’s & 10.9’s.....the 9.8’s are a bit uncommon. Hopefully I won’t be covered with rust underneath mine/ as I don’t live up north or near the coast :ughdance: |
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:tiphat: Awesome Build; can’t wait to start mine...not going turbo,but possibly a SC :tup:
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IG@gbrettin
Wrapped up the installation for the diff brace. Thought I'd be proactive and look at a problem area for Z cars for rust. Guess what I found on the passenger side! Yup.... I ground as much as I could back and then used a rust stopper and epoxy primer. I'll come back and spray it black and then put 3M rubber coating on. The driver's side was perfect. I sealed it off anyway. ��*♂* ---------------------------------------------------------- My wife asked me why I was making all these posts. She was trying to connect the dots as to how this ties into profits, she works in sales. My response was simple, "I like to share." Now, to someone that is goal oriented towards money that doesn't make a whole lot of sense. Next question from her: "how many people are following your build?". ... I laughed (on the inside). To which I respond with " about 5 people that I know of on the forum and I get about 25 likes typically on IG." I was talking to a person and they were showing me their nitrous installation on Facebook Messenger. I exchanged a photo of my Nitrous installation and he started laughing. The guy said he used my build as a baseline for his car. So yeah... I don't post this stuff for Internet fame/cloute or intentions of making money. It's really about information sharing or inspiring someone to do something with their 370z. And for the 5 people that consistently have been watching my misguided shenaniganss= for the last 1.5year. - Thanks! I also post all this stuff so I can eventually see the unique Tags: jar beats off while crying, jar loves mangled extremeties, jar's 5$ hardkok grinder fest, jar's mouth jbwelded to kok jlarson premium grinder member redondo longshafts Anti-Seize, when you feel like being nice to your self or the next guy down the road. https://zlqfxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none There was all sort of debris hanging out in this pocket. Perfect for rust to start. https://ybqnxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ybqoxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ybqlxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ybqjxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none The bond is so strong between the can and lid I had to leave it on. I just poured it on and used a brush to get into all the spots. https://ybqhxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ybqixw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://0bt2va.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none Driver's side appears to be good. I cleaned it up and sealed it anyway. https://ybqfxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://yrqnxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://yrqoxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none It was kind of a PITA to get the subframe connectors on by myself. https://yrqkxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://yrqjxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://yrqfxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none There is an order to put stuff back on. This isnt it. https://yrqixw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none Diff-brace clearance https://0bt5va.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://0bt4va.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none General View https://yrqgxw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://0bt0va.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://0bt3va.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
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I hop on here exclusively to check the classified section, and to see how this build is progressing. I love watching a good build come together. |
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Getting the hang of video editing. I have a good video of the diff brace install and subframe collar install. Hopefully I will get that posted sometime soon. I'll continue to do both pictures and also include video at some point.
Here's a short unboxing of the v-bands: http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1593088398 |
IG@gbrettin
Touched off a bit of spray paint and then hit the areas with 3M rubber liner. Came out great! --------------------------- I checked on the epoxy primer and it came out great. That's pretty easy when it doesn't need to turn out nice. A quick coat of black was applied and then about 10min later I blasted it with 3M wheel liner and attempted to blend it a bit. https://yrt3va.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://yrt2va.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://yrt5va.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ybtxva.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
From last weekend. Well, it's definitely a video. I'm looking forward to doing future videos better.
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Big thanks for opening the shop up for our class trip. Seeing it in person was really awesome.
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Man, it was great seeing everyone and I was happy to do the show and tell. What's even better is that I was able to get in-person feedback. From what I can tell it was all positive. However, if anyone has anything they didn't like... I'm all ears!
One thing I really liked was seeing Rusty's Finite Element fender vents. They look overwhelming in pictures but they look great in person, basically justified my purchase. Madwi, thanks for the quick rip in the turbo Z! I loved it (excitement over flowed with me screaming out the window.) |
I agree about the finite vents. I hated them while holding them up to my car. They are so much nicer in person.
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Small update/fail. I ordered some K&N filters for my turbos and they were too large, only by an inch. I ended up sending back the K&N RU-2510 and picked up two RX-4130-1. Height is 2.125" vs 3.5".
Also, picked up a new transmission pan, Hughes Performance. In the video I posted I mentioned I was going to pick up a new pan. If you guys haven't seen it, all good because it is a long video and I'm still figuring out how to make compelling video. Near the end of the video I couldn't think of the pan name because my brain goes 50 different places trying to think while on video for some reason. lol And of course... the package was inspected. Final thought, I didn't get any pictures of me cutting the Fast Intentions exhaust down but I will show that completely in my next video. https://z7qvpg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://z7qopg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://z7qrpg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://z7qppg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://z7qmpg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://zrqupg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://zrqrpg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://zrqtpg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
That plastic is a threat and needed a talking to! -Cat
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New YouTube video. I received some feedback that the videos are too long. I'm going to produce shorter videos in the future. I welcome all feedback if you have any, I'm new to this shiz.
Speaking of new... My new valley pan came in from Tick Performance. It's pretty much the cats meow and will look amazing under the duel plenum. The reason I changed out to this was because I wanted the stock location of the oil pressure sensor. ICT has an option to drill out the valley pan, but I wanted it all one piece so there's less to go wrong. It's small but if I do that thought pattern with every part (best I can anyway) the sum of the whole will be better off. https://z7syrq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://0ls0rq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://0ls1rq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
Installed the Hughes Performance Shallow pan. VERY happy I went with the product. It has more capacity and extra cooling with out compromising space.
In preparation of receiving the up pipes I opened up, welded and grinded a bit of extra clearance on the frame. I feel like the welds were good enough to where Rusty can say, "not bad", obviously not great. :) I had to stop welding because I jammed the MIG welder..... :owned: Earlier today I picked up the up pipes from Any Weld and Cutting located in Portage, MI on my lunch. They did a hell of a job considering how many damn pies there are. Down the road I plan on having the piping ceramic coated. I wonder if they can do color requests... Hmmm. Anyway, I can start on the down pipes! YAY! I hope how you see how all the other items are all leading to a cross roads from the previous posts. Here's a WAY shorter video. Shorten the darn video was the #1 suggestion by far. :icon17: https://zbssrq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://zbsvrq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://z7qs0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://zrsxrq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://zrstrq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://z7qu0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://z7qr0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
Looks like polishing time on those pipes... :tup:
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When you wire brush the welds. Use a stainless brush. Otherwise a carbon steel brush will leave particulies in the piping and will rust.
On the wire jam. It's called bird nesting. What you have is minor. You may have too much tension on the rollers. |
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IG@gbrettin:
Couple posts back I cut off the pinch weld, MIG welded and then flapper sanded smooth. I did that to accommodate the 3" down pipe which will be meet with a boost actuated dump and a 2.5" merge to my Fast Intentions exhaust. The plan is coming together, oh yes! Had a few questions on clearance. ���� Snake-zilla ���� has quite the path to wind to make it up to the exhaust manifolds. I made sure that the front wheels were cranked all the way, right and left. Both sides have 1/4 inch at full lock. The down pipes are going to be on the inside loop of the up pipes (shown on last picture). All of that fits. Not bad for an amateur. ----------------------------------------------- https://zrqr0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none Driver Side https://y7qv0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nxlixq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://y7qy0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://zrqs0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhlgxq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhljxq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhlixq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none Passenger Side https://y7qx0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhlkxq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nxllxq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nxloxq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhlhxq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
Oh, one last thing. I ordered 2.5 - 3" transition so I can weld that directly to my turbo. I think the boots on the turbo look tacky. Personal preference thing.
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You're going to need more than a 1/4" clearance. When Corning hard. The tires and rims flex some. Keep that in mind.
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That's full lock. I don't think I hit full lock on the ToTD. I need to take a look to see if I can claw back a bit more space.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk |
Video of what happened in the pictures above. I like how this video turned out, finally. The video has pretty much the meat of what was happening and I still managed to capture all the win/fail stuff. And yes, there is some fail in the video.
Re-uploaded due to copy right sh1t... |
IG@gbrettin
Tick Performance valley pan installed. No filter required. Let the billet-ness overwhelm you mind ------------------------ Pulled the plenum off my car last night in preparation for a few things. 1. I wanted to get the new valley pan on (made a quick video of that. Will post later). 2. I can work on my down pipes with out a bunch of obstacles in my way. 3. The engine has to be removed for the oil pan installation (hopefully happens soon...) 4. The heads need to be drilled and tapped. I stripped off a bunch of the plenum bolts. Yup, that really happened. The bolts will be changed from M6 to M8 so that there is more bite putting them in. The plenum is a HUGE pain in the azz because they are not connected in anyway. A cross over needs to be added in somewhere so maybe I will cut the back side of the plenum and join it there. I really want a duel plenum, but I question this turd sometimes. Reminder why the valley pan was swapped. The back side of the LS has a pressure sensor in valley pan. ICT did not have the oil sensor location so I upgraded. I paid a bit more for the Tick Performance because it's all billet but figured it would be a really nice piece to have because the plenum sits up so high, making the pan visible. The billet valley pan also goes with the aluminum, billet and semi gloss black theme I have going. Side note. The Internet was kind enough to let me know when I make mistakes. I should have covered the backside of the turbo up when I was grinding my car. Metal shavings went into the exhaust housing. These are not the endgame turbos for my build but they still need to get me down the road. SO... I need to disassemble the turbo and clean that out. The only redeeming factor is that it was the exhaust housing. I'm still going to break it down. I may even send it out to Turbonetics. We'll see after I break it down. I HATE HATE HATE making stupid mistakes like that. Anyway, I'm being completely transparent with my build. Hopefully my burning stupidity can help someone else. Or at least someone can laugh at my expense? This one really frustrated me though and I know better. Edit - There was talk about notching the car. Look for the black marker lines over the up-pipes. I didn't end up going that route obviously. I just wanted to explain why that's there. Onto the pictures: https://nhkyuw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhk5uw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhkzuw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhk2uw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhk1uw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhk3uw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ork2uw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ork1uw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ork4uw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ork3uw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
Use Helicoils in your heads. Lock tite them in. This way, you have steel on steel contact for your bolts. Not steel and aluminum. You'll thank me later. :tiphat: Best thing to do is use Helicoils in all of the aluminum bolt holes. Less chance of stripping out. I did this a lot at Elliott.
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Tick Performance Valley Pan Install and Snow White Heads to Streetcar Takeover:
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Having to disassemble the front end of the car for the valley pan installation forced me to take another look at the front end of the car. From the start I wanted to a forward leaning radiator boxed in. Truth be told, I wasn't fully happy with the placement of the A2W IC in front of the radiator. My whole goal with this car is to produce the best result I can possible do. Knowing that the airflow is not optimal, creating drag and inefficient cooling wasn't going to cut it. The time frame for this year and the corvid experience has made it so there is no sense of urgency to have the car running. There's simply no reason to take a short cut, and it weighed heavy on me that I was taking a short cut.
I remedied that with action. I am 100% moving forward with a forward leaning and boxed in radiator. I'm not going to completely duct the air out the hood but I will have ducts shooting towards hood vents (on my non existent pin on hood as of right now). Moving forward... The mount bar was cut leaving the two turbos to hang by themselves. I'll need to cut down an extra plate of metal and weld it to the existing flat stock; then drill some holes so that a bolt can go into existing threaded crash bar holes. The bar that was removed between the two turbos is an absolute perfect fit for the front bumper curve. I'm going to use that for a legitimate crash bar. I need to use some more tube stock to get it in the vicinity shown in the last picture. The crash bar will also serve as a mounting location for the radiator. The hurdles... I found a pretty nice radiator to use: CSF R1 Radiator The problem is this: I am going to keep AC so I need an AC condenser unit and I don't know jack **** about it (I know enough to be dangerous). If any of you guys know of a separate system that is unmarried from the radiator, I'm all ears. Well, that's what I'm going to research. Someone grabbed my phone and started taking pictures of me working. The action shots are rare. lol Edit - I went to Streetcar Takeover last weekend. My buddy said he wanted to get faster than "14.0", mentioned in my last video. He got 11.2 on a low power setting being 50% or so in the throttle the whole time (I saw the data log). He was happy having it out and that was the first run on any track with his fresh build. He expects to go 8's in the future; however, he was VERY nervous at the event. I 100% understand why. He built it. That sounds funny to say, but there's no factory testing. Stuff can go wrong or really bad. It's best to ease into it. Also, jumping into 1000whp animal (yes, that's not high boost) is pretty nuts. For all the 1000+hp builds you see on the Internet... I'm willing to bet most people haven't experienced over 500. Anyway, I wanted to give that little bit of information since I mentioned it in the video. https://mhiarw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mhidrw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mhierw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhlupa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://orlspa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://orlupa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oblppa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oblspa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oblrpa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oblupa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
You might want to look at the A/C set-up on a 3G Ram trucks (05 to 10). The radiator is on one side and the condenser is on the other side. They are not piggy backed. The condenser has it's own electric fan.
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Since the bar has been pushed out further I wanted additional surface area over the mounting point so I cut up some scrap metal, sanded a bit and drilled a whole. I cut the tabs using an angle grinder because the Harbor Freight bandsaw gave up on life. The shop has an industrial bandsaw waiting to be setup, which I need to continue the hotside.
It was a real b1tch one man wrestling bar stock around trying to tack some welds. It pretty much got to the point where the bar was in the right spot and I zapped at the seam getting it to stay. Then I put a thicker tack on. This is the downside of building something late at night. Overall, I'm Very happy with the new direction so far. I'm going to add gussets in the corners for strength; although, After it's TIG welded (by my buddy) it should be REALLY strong. If you are curious about the metal type, Rusty, it's mild steel. I'm not sure the exact wall thickness or alloy. It was "hey, this looks like it will work." *pulls from metal pile*. The price was right... Free. I ended up pulling the trigger on CSF. It's already set up for AN fittings (money saver), the dimensions are right, it's meant to be v-mounted and it looks good. I came to the conclusion I will worry about AC down the road... probably when it's really hot out and wonder why I didn't do it sooner. https://mhlppa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mhlqpa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mhlnpa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mhlopa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mxlvpa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mxlspa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
These pictures happened over the last few days so I'll attempt to give context.
Wed: While the crash bar was tacked up I tried to bend one side up. In doing so I broke the tacks and everything fell down. The welder was not turned up to lava to penetrate the steel properly. I pretty much got pistoff/frustrated and threw in the towel that night. Prior to making the crash bar fall apart I made gussets. I used the angle grinder and sanding disk to make them from scrap. Gussets will add significant strength to the bar. The bar is angled upwards a tad. I did that because I wanted to be able to get the bolts on/off easy. Downside with that is that it would be weak(er) if it were raised up higher in the middle. I have ideas that could be way better... but that's falling down a new rabbit hole. No thanks. Thur Fast forward to the next day. I came out to the shop, mentally refreshed, to retack and set the gussets up but find out someone took the shop extension cord for the welder. This isn't some regular extension cord either. It's 8 gauge for 220. All the hardware stores are closed because it took me a while to get out to the shop. Defeated again! Fri New CSF radiator arrives mid day, renewed ambition. Head out to the shop and do a test fit. <-- Bung to Bung --> the radiator fits perfectly! The higher bung must go on the driverside. If the radiator is flipped the other way the bung will be right in the area of the hot side; not immediately but, the -16 would 100% be impossible to route. Look at the dimensional picture in the previous post to see how the bungs are set up. ... Rough test fit ... Check. I located a different 8 gauge cord. The ends are missing and I want to weld; so, I head off to Lowes and Home Depot to get supplies. Why two stores? because one store never has all the stuff I need. That's the way of life and I've come to accept it, especially with plumbing. The new ends are put on cord and voila, the welder has life! Now I get started with the crash bar, take 2. I turned the welder up to lava melt and increased the line feed. It's clear this is burning into the metal now and laying thick beads. I got excited and rip welds everywhere I could, in a short amount of time... it's Friday and I'm not trying to be at the shop all night while my wife sits at home. Anyway, I was able to fill in some gaps and get the metal grinded back. I guess this is a long winded way of saying stuff doesn't go smoothly doing custom stuff. Not for me anyway. https://objqma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://objvma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://objuma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oxjnma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oxjmma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oxjpma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oxjoma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ohjmma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ohjpma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ohjsma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ohjvma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://ohjuma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mxlnpa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
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