Anyone here into firearms?

MacCool

I'm no metallurgist, but the problem as I understand it is that the billets used are part of an extrusion. As such, the grain is completely uniform. The items machined from billet therefore have the grain always running in the same direction. This is problematic in that it means that in many areas the stresses imposed run across the grain, meaning weaker. They compensate for this by making the items thicker (heavier), but that is apparently tricky to do (knowing where the stress risers are going to be) and if it's not done perfectly, you get stress cracks fairly often. If it is done properly, you are left with a rigid but heavier item. With forgings, the metal is literally hammered into shape around the curves and bends in stress areas, meaning the stresses run with the grain, meaning stronger.

Before I'd pay extra for a billet lower or upper and suffer the extra weight, somebody would have to prove to me that a more rigid shooting platform will translate into me getting more shots into an 8 inch circle from 50 yards, and that I won't get cracking of the part after another 4000-5000 rounds. I made that assumption years ago, but current wisdom recommends against, and indeed, I haven't seen that at all shooting my Noveske with VIS compared to my SBRs with conventional Noveske uppers/lowers.

Hype IMHO.

Relative to the LPK, it's kind of cumbersome to buy the individual parts, but IMHO works better. Plus, I usually order 3-5 of each spring and detent just to have them on hand. Here's a representation:

BlackZeda

The thing I was impressed with the Mega Arms billet receivers were that they were made with 7075 T6 aluminium. Since you brought to my attention that Noveske are forged from the same metal it is a moot point. My thinking was that, yes it billet, but it is a stronger material, so there shouldn't be any problems.

With golf clubs and mountain bike components you can actually feel that forged is stronger, so I think I will stick with Noveske.

As far as the lower parts kit, since this is my AR-supreme, I think I will hand-pick each part rather than get a kit. It is a labor of love after all!

I noticed that Rainer Arms now have Noveske lowers and uppers available seperately. Do you think having a matched set is worth the wait? I would think that since it is Noveske, that a seperate upper and lower would fit so well I wouldn't know the difference. Plus the upper has all the parts included with it.

MacCool

The only advantage to a matched upper and lower is that they are hand fitted, so they mate up perfectly without any play. The disadvantage is that it does impair interchangability. Of my three matched Noveske sets, none of the uppers fit easily on any of the other lowers. A little play between upper and lower has absolutely no bearing on how the rifle shoots or its durability...it's purely cosmetic. Now, I like a nice, tight rifle, but I'm not sure the hand fitting is worth the downside, especially given the price premium and lack of availability. If I were going to build a rifle right now, I'd use a Noveske upper and lower, but I wouldn't make any special effort to have them be matched to each other.


The Colt bolt release and mag releases are more expensive, but I've never had one that didn't work, whereas I have had generic LPK's where the bolt release was a piece of crap, and the mag release was out of spec enough that it wouldn't engage the catch in the mag. My only other observation is that I highly recommend a BADASS. It's a superb selector, very precise, not to mention that it's ambidexterous. That's important to me because in my personal manual of arms, I generally flip the safety off with my thumb and flip it back on from the other side with my index finger. Not to mention their various interchangeable lever configurations and their 45 degree lever. I've not used the latter, but it's the way I'd go for my next one. B.A.D as a company is a class act with truly exceptional customer service. If I had to choose between having a Gunfighter charging handle vs a BADASS, I'd go for the BADASS every time. Both of those devices represent real improvements in rifle construction. By the way, note that on their website, you can buy the BADASS in combination with a Giessele trigger. The Giessele trigger is superb in all respects, IMHO.

http://shop.battlearmsdevelopment.com/main.sc




I particularly like the crank lever option, with a shorter, out-of-the-way lever on the index finger side. Very positive control. Nice and solid. The safety selector is the control that is by far used to most on any rifle (except the trigger), so IMHO you want it to be precise and distinct (likewise the trigger). I came to hate the mushy selectors that come in a typical LPK, especially given the variability in quality. Likewise I prefer the nice crisp break on a Giessele...no creep or grittiness.




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BlackZeda

Hmmm, you gave me a thought to check out the play in my rifles, which I haven't given it a lot of thought before. The Bushies have only enough play to make a slight noise when I torque the upper and lower, with one being almost not noticable (I assume that is the one I bought as a complete rifle). Even the CMMG upper with the YHM lower isn't at all noticable unless I really mess with it. I remember I put an Accu-Wedge in a Colt and Armalite I used to own, but it just made it really hard to disassemble, so I guess I never was compelled to try that again. That proves your point since I have put many, many rounds through the Bushmaster that I pieced together and haven't had even a stovepipe jam. I do use supposedly good ammo though, so I am sure that has something to do with it. You are the right guy to ask since you have the exact experience that will help me with this decision. I am going to order them right now!

Of course you showing me all this nice hardware will result in me buy each times three! Would you say that the Noveske barrels are worth the premium price? I bought a Daniels Defense barrel which I thought was pretty nifty and expensive, but the Noveske barrel is twice the price.

Thanks again for the insight and info!

MacCool

If I wanted a barrel for nuts-on accuracy, I'd get a Noveske stainless in 16-18 inches. I do believe they are among the best. As it is, I don't need that kind of accuracy and prefer carbon steel for it's longevity and durability. In that regard, the Noveske steel barrels are excellent, but not available separately. I have no complaints about the BCM barrels I have. I think DD makes a fine barrel. But...my next barrel will likely be a Centurion. They use the same M249 thicker chrome lining that Noveske uses, but they're available separately. If it's a spare-no-expense rifle...I'd get the Centurion double-chrome barrel unless you want stainless, in which case I'd go Noveske. If you're looking to compromise a little for a lower price, hammer-forged DD or BCM barrels are really good and probably represent more-bang for buck.

BlackZeda

Isn't this a steel barrel that you are describing?:

Rainier Arms, LLC™ | Browse | Noveske | Noveske N4 Light 5.56MM Barrel - 16 LP

$450.45...you would think it was made of a platinum and titanium-lined.

MacCool

Whoops, yes it ïs. Sorry for not paying attention. As I mentioned, I'd get a Noveske stainless, but in the hammer forged line I'd be inclined to get something fom this page.

Hammer Forged Barrel