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To bolt the cross over pipe I would recommend using a combination wrench to go around the bolt head. Then use a 3/8's torque wrench with a crows foot to

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Old 11-07-2014, 09:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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To bolt the cross over pipe I would recommend using a combination wrench to go around the bolt head. Then use a 3/8's torque wrench with a crows foot to tighten the nut to spec.

And that is a fvcken retarded new H-pipe section!
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Old 11-08-2014, 07:36 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreadnaught View Post
To bolt the cross over pipe I would recommend using a combination wrench to go around the bolt head. Then use a 3/8's torque wrench with a crows foot to tighten the nut to spec.

And that is a fvcken retarded new H-pipe section!
It's a great suggestion but the crows foot is thicker than a socket and there is not enough clearance between the bolt head/nut and the pipe to allow the crows foot to turn. It'll fit partially on the nut (as far down as the flange will let it) if it is rotated to the opening but it can't be turned because the pipe is too close. In addition the pipe flanges extend and cover most of the bolt head/nut so any tool that cannot be angled to fit will not work.

You're also right in that it's a very poor design. I assume they did it to separate the parts and make them easier to handle and a smaller package to ship. If the flanges had been rotated vertically the bolts would be clear of the pipes and a socket would fit. If the flanges were flat plate like the others and the bolts further from the pipe a crows foot would work to torque the bolts. The way they are the bolts are completely inaccessible.

From my perspective here are my options:
  1. Return it for a refund
  2. Take it apart and reassemble with RTV
  3. Weld the flanges together
  4. Trim the flanges to allow access

and my thoughts on my options:
  1. I don't want to return it - what a hassle. Besides I like the way it sounds.
  2. What a pain! And placing the RTV in a confined space in proper manner and sequence will be a formitable challenge for me working alone with multiple sections of pipe without smearing it and ruining the sealing bead.
  3. Sounds simple but it would have to be removed and without a jig to hold the pieces in place a challenge to align properly to fit. I guess it could be tacked in place then removed and welded but again, what a hassle. I shouldn't have to do this.
  4. The flanges are what gives the thin metal its rigidity. Trimming the flanges would make them very flexible and probably make it impossible to seal, so really not a viable option.
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Last edited by sandersd; 11-08-2014 at 08:46 AM.
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