Experimenting with Intake Air Temp. Request for comments.

roy'sz

you could drill a hole in the top of the intake and use a expoxy to seal up the whole if you use a thermocouple. Which brings the question of where is the intake air temp being read at? I thought it was the maf but I may be wrong. I don't disagree when it comes to pulling air outside, but here is my stumbling block. We as a customer are spending 150bucks on 3 degrees of air for 3 or 4 hp (gen3, aem, injen, etc) compared to a k&n or takeda? Most of the times cruising down the hwy the difference would be an avg of 5 or 6* right? if you are stuck in traffic then they both seem to have the same heat soak.

Also some useful information, the other night I took the wife out on date night in the z. When we left the resturante from dinner my intake air temp was around 130 from being parked for dinner. After some city driving (ambient temp was 44) it dropped down to about 95. When I got on the hwy it plummeted in a matter of 20-45 seconds to 46.

__________________
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtvG...data_playerARK HFC'S-ARK Grip-Stillen G3-M370-UPREV-Kinetix upper control arm-WC Latheworks-Stage2 Bad@$$ Driver(318whp/268tq)-

SouthArk370Z

I'd like to find a less permanent/destructive way to do it. There are several vacuum lines that I may be able to tee into (t/c through the run and current hose on the branch).
I still haven't found a good (ie, cheap) solution for taking 4-5 temperature readings at the same time. I have found a dual-channel t/c meter that I will be ordering this week or next, but at $9 I'm afraid that it will not be very be accurate. If it does turn out to be reasonably accurate, I'll order more.

The ECU uses the MAF temperature on bank 1 for IAT.

I'm trying to see what can be done to the stock setup. I'm not worried so much about an increase in HP, but rather keeping IAT below where the ECU starts pulling timing (which I suppose is, in effect, a boost in HP).
If the insulation works well enough, I won't need to spend money on a CAI.

I've noticed much the same. Takes forever to get temps back to normal at city speeds after a long stop.
Did coolant temp go way up, also? Was the big drop at the same time that coolant temp dropped? The TB coolant loop may be having a larger effect on IAT than I suspect.

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

ChipsWithDips

For anyone with silicone post maf tubes, you could try intalling a port like this:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...17d07128d8115b

I would not recommend trying to sense temperature from a vacuum line as it will not have consistent airflow through it.

I doubt that wrapping stock airboxes with insulation will do a whole lot as the plastic is already not a very good heat conductor. I would think wrapping would have better results on an aftermarket intake w/ aluminum piping. It's still nice to see people trying to experiment and get some actual measurements though, so I won't try to stop you

__________________
PPE Headers SS/Coated/Wrapped | Ebay y-pipe | Custom 3" single exhaust w/ Magnaflows | UpRev | Racingbrake 2pc Rotors | 40th calipers | Eibach sways | SPL endlinks, diff mounts | RJM pedal | Stillen Intakes, UDP, Flywheel | M370 Manifold | Z1 engine mounts, CSC-EK, Clutch | Forgestar F14 18x10 | Conti DWs | Quaife diff/4.08 gears | Nismo diff cover

SouthArk370Z

That's a neat little widget. I'm using the stock duct work (one set with insulation, one without), but I will definitely keep it in mind if I go to silicone tubes.

What I have in mind is to insert the probe _through_ the tee and into the manifold. Since there is not much flow, the slight blockage from the wiring _shouldn't_ have a big effect on engine operation. I hope.

You're probably right. I'm just trying to drop the temp a few degrees and will be surprised if it makes much of a difference in performance.
I am hoping that temps will drop faster after a long stop light during hot S AR Summers, but I'm not expecting miracles.

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

juld0zer

I think sticking anything loose in the intake manifold is risky. It could get drawn into a cylinder and cause problems but there really is no other way. except a bung in the manifold and screw-in type temperature probe. The bung can be blanked with a bolt & teflon tape if you're after a somewhat reversible mod.

The foil tape wont make a world of difference but like you said - every bit counts.

If you want your IAT to drop quickly from a stop light, i'd strongly suggest making a home made HSRK. It cost me less than the foil tape!

The additional insulation etc will help ensure the air stays close to what your IAT sensor is telling the ECU by the time it reaches the manifold.

SouthArk370Z

Yep. Whether or not I use that method will depend a lot on the construction of the sensors (will they stay together in that location).
Drilling a port in the manifold would probably be the best solution, but I don't want to drill holes in things if I don't have to.

This is the first time I've seen the term HSRK used. Looked it up and it appears to be a fast-responding probe and/or relocation.
I like the idea of a faster-responding sensor, but I'm still on the fence as far as relocation goes. Maybe I'm misunderstanding the purpose of AIT relocation, but it seems to me that it would make more sense to put the sensor the ECM uses in the manifold. But I guess it depends on what the ECM does with the data. If the ECM is already compensating for the additional heat gain of the ducts, then the manifold may not be the best place.


Thanks for all the input. Feel free to offer more tips and suggestions.


Somewhere down the line I would like to see how much the TB heaters affect air temp. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

juld0zer

If i was doing it, i'd be looking into sourcing a sensor designed for the purpose. Most of the automotive sensor manufacturers would have a few in their arsenal that are tolerant of manifold heat, vacuum levels and also be airtight. The S2000 has one of those sensors, not sure who makes it though. Another benefit of using a sensor designed for the purpose is they're pretty cheap from a wreckers yard and you'll get the pigtail with it to make a secure connection too.

The next part would be getting the scaling/resistance vs temperature chart and syncing that with your datalogging gear/spreadsheet. If you were to run this sensor as the engine's IAT sensor then you'd need to pick one with scaling that's exactly the same as the OEM one, or very close to it. From comparing a few (Denso) sensors and their scaling curves with the OEM one, i'm concluding that an air temp sensor which has a Denso curve would be most suitable. They're used on a lot of Japanese cars and the curve is close enough to the OEM one - unless you want to buy the entire MAF sensor to avoid any slight variances.

The problem with these manifold tolerant sensors is that the probe is usually coated in plastic to ensure long term survival, which dulls its response time. You could melt the plastic off and use it temporarily but i wouldn't expect it to last in the long run.

The 370Z FSM states 1.8-2.2kOhm resistance @ 25*C/77*F air. 0.283-0.359kOhm resistance @ 80*C/176*F air.

Mazda3 FSM states 2.21-2.69kOhm resistance @ 20*C. No mention of what resistance at higher temps though. This MAF sensor is used in heaps of late model Mazdas (2/3/5/6/CX7/MS3) and the thermister is easy to cut off. This is the thermister i am using and that is probably why my IAT as seen by the ECU reads a little warmer than the onboard ambient temp sensor.

Air temp sensor as used on late model Mazda Proteges (looks like an stake-end) has a plastic covered probe. Mazda3 turbo diesel (non-USDM model) FSM states 2.21-2.69kOhm resistance @ 20*C water and 0.29-0.35kOhm resistance @ 80*C water. Figures are based on water temps because this probe is fully sealed. I've owned the Mazda3 T/D so that's why i had a spare sensor, which i hacked up to mount the above IAT thermister (remember my pics?)

Air temp sensor as used on RX7 (screw in type, with plastic coated probing end) has identical scaling to the Protege sensor. On the RX7, this sensor is screwed into the metal intake manifold.

Relocation i think for the Z is crucial as the area around the Bank 1 (MAF/stock IAT) side of the radiator is a lot hotter than the area around the Bank 2 side. Wrapping my MAF sensor with the neoprene stuff didnt make much difference. Sucks that the fans dont come on until almost 100*C coolant temp so there isnt air to circulate around the engine bay when you're at the lights - things keep getting hotter as the engine gets warmer. I contemplated Uprev purely for the fan control but it's not cheap to remedy something Nissan should've done - damn modern emissions restrictions!

I think i mentioned somewhere in another thread that there's some healthy discussion on the Corvette/GM forums (and the Holden forums in Australia) about HSRKs, choice of sensor location (behind fascias, at the mouth of the intake, the neck of a pod filter, just before the throttle body, etc etc). My stance on this part of the debate is that unless the engine is pinging, i'm not going to worry. Like yourself, i also think that the ECM does some massaging of the sensor output. The IAT reading you get on OBD2 readers is what the sensor sees, not the final (digested/processed) temperature used to determine ignition timing and fuel injection amount.

As for the throttle body coolant bypass... i'm on the fence on this one. It's quite an involved mod to do esp with air bleeding etc so i'm not that keen on this one. As for potential gains, it would be similar to wrapping the MAF tubes to prevent radiant engine heat affecting the MAF sensor. Removing the hot coolant from the TB is like blocking the radiant heat from the engine.

Although, if the ECM does indeed apply some calculation to the IAT detected temperature, the ECU won't even notice that the air passing thru the TB is now slightly cooler. Another argument is that the air doesnt spend long enough in the TB to get warmed - you can wave your hand thru a flame and not get burnt but if you hold your hand there then it'll be a different story.

Either way, I really doubt Nissan would use a different TB (a non-coolant warmed one) in regions where sub zero temperatures never occur (eg. UAE, Malaysia, etc) but it would be interesting to get some input from members from these regions. The Aussie 370Z has coolant passing thru the TB.