Is it really worth putting a Cold Air Intake on 370z and what HP gains

alcheng · 01-23-2012, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr750

if you look at the stillen dyno chart you will see that the engine really doesn't make any real power gains until 6500 -7000 rpm and below that range it only makes between 5-8 hp increase, not a really that significant for a $1000 price tag. Also most ppl don't drive their cars close to redline.

There's some gains on the paper, but in reality, I think it's more hp gain in your mind than on the wheel.

Baer383 · 01-23-2012, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alcheng

There's some gains on the paper, but in reality, I think it's more hp gain in your mind than on the wheel.

If it's on paper then how the hell can it be just in your mind.

alcheng · 01-23-2012, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alcheng

There's some gains on the paper, but in reality, I think it's more hp gain in your mind than on the wheel.

'More', not 'All'.

That couple extra horses at the top end and the louder engine note, make you 'think' the car is much faster, that's what I mean.

Baer383 · 01-23-2012, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alcheng

'More', not 'All'.

That couple extra horses at the top end and the louder engine note, make you 'think' the car is much faster, that's what I mean.

The noise my engine makes doesn't make it seem louder or faster,the 305hp at the tire handle that all by themselves.

Jsolo · 01-23-2012, 02:53 PM

Re: Dyno runs. A single run isn't all that meaningful. Do at least 3-5 runs with each mod, taking the average.

TheGreatOne · 01-23-2012, 03:32 PM

I was going to do the K&N's plus Post MAF tubes but they HPS tubes were back ordered and then I saw a good deal on slightly used Injen CAI's.

Knocking off $150 made it easier to go CAI. So getting more HP, more aggressive sound and a nice looking engine bay made it worth it to me.

elmz · 01-24-2012, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baer383

If it's on paper then how the hell can it be just in your mind.

Haha true. I'm in the boat of drop-ins and tubes though, and it would be great if we had dyno results for these. I'm really curious if they yield similar results for less than half the cost of CAI's.

sfearl1 · 01-24-2012, 10:18 AM

i'm going to try to get a baseline and my cosworth's dynoed soon. i'll have post maf's by then as well

UNKNOWN_370 · 01-24-2012, 10:37 AM

A lot of educated guys on here have modded this car way before many of us. I have modded both G35 and G37 and I am now modding the Z. From what I've learned from these great guys on here is your first mod will net you your largest gains. So if you put on an intake first you will see and feel close to 20hp which is felt. If you do a exhaust first your largest gains will be there. All secondary mods will gain you lower hp gains. This is what I know. Most autos run 13.1 to 13.4 stock. With full bolt on s the numbers drop to about 12.6 to 12.9 seconds on the quarter. On the manuals the average run is 13.3 to 13.6 completly stock. Add bolt ons and 12.8 to 13.2 second quarters become the norm.
Opnion #1
So going with complete bolt ons is worth it to some degree. The real question is... where do you want your gains to come from. Ok this ismy logic. To me, $525 on a CAI is not worth it for up to 18hp if my second mod will be an exhaust that cost somewhere between $1300-2200. Installing a quality exhaust like an FI, with post MAFS and a K&N intake filter set as the secondary mod is much more cost effective. The cost will be around $180 vs 525 on the post MAFs and will net the same exact gains than the guy who put the CAI first and the exhaust second.
From what I been able to notice though is the guys who opt for stillens and takedas vs. Post MAFS are they lose 3-12hp down low before the rocket backup to base line then gain another 12-14hp, thus giving them this false boost of 20+hp. The exhuast mod seems to drop the least hp before a rise and this is why I choose the exhaust as the first real mod over the intake. The intake in my opinion is the support mod which can be done more cheaply and efficiently than a full stillen G3. If you like the chromey look though and want to pull your front end off everytime you need to clean or replace your G3 filter? Then hey, be my guest. Me personally, I'm not risking the beauty of my cars front end from a cai that nets the same power gains as post mafs if I just start with my exhaust first than start with my CAI...
Disclaimer:
That's just an opinion and observation based on different cases on here. I do not promote or endorse my statement as a fact or a source for argument or rebuttal. Its just a personal opinion.
Opinion #2
In the end... we should all strive for some type of FI if we are serious about power gains? Any bolt on mod is just a base mod anyway.
Disclaimer applies here as well.

onzedge · 01-24-2012, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UNKNOWN_370

A lot of educated guys on here have modded this car way before many of us. I have modded both G35 and G37 and I am now modding the Z. From what I've learned from these great guys on here is your first mod will net you your largest gains. So if you put on an intake first you will see and feel close to 20hp which is felt. If you do a exhaust first your largest gains will be there. All secondary mods will gain you lower hp gains. This is what I know. Most autos run 13.1 to 13.4 stock. With full bolt on s the numbers drop to about 12.6 to 12.9 seconds on the quarter. On the manuals the average run is 13.3 to 13.6 completly stock. Add bolt ons and 12.8 to 13.2 second quarters become the norm.
Opnion #1
So going with complete bolt ons is worth it to some degree. The real question is... where do you want your gains to come from. Ok this ismy logic. To me, $525 on a CAI is not worth it for up to 18hp if my second mod will be an exhaust that cost somewhere between $1300-2200. Installing a quality exhaust like an FI, with post MAFS and a K&N intake filter set as the secondary mod is much more cost effective. The cost will be around $180 vs 525 on the post MAFs and will net the same exact gains than the guy who put the CAI first and the exhaust second.
From what I been able to notice though is the guys who opt for stillens and takedas vs. Post MAFS are they lose 3-12hp down low before the rocket backup to base line then gain another 12-14hp, thus giving them this false boost of 20+hp. The exhuast mod seems to drop the least hp before a rise and this is why I choose the exhaust as the first real mod over the intake. The intake in my opinion is the support mod which can be done more cheaply and efficiently than a full stillen G3. If you like the chromey look though and want to pull your front end off everytime you need to clean or replace your G3 filter? Then hey, be my guest. Me personally, I'm not risking the beauty of my cars front end from a cai that nets the same power gains as post mafs if I just start with my exhaust first than start with my CAI...
Disclaimer:
That's just an opinion and observation based on different cases on here. I do not promote or endorse my statement as a fact or a source for argument or rebuttal. Its just a personal opinion.
Opinion #2
In the end... we should all strive for some type of FI if we are serious about power gains? Any bolt on mod is just a base mod anyway.
Disclaimer applies here as well.

You make a great deal of sense.

sfearl1 · 01-24-2012, 11:41 AM

haitech · 01-24-2012, 06:57 PM

Very logically put

FL 4Motion · 01-24-2012, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onzedge

You make a great deal of sense.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sfearl1

Quote:

Originally Posted by haitech

Very logically put

x4 (see sig).

brucelidat · 01-24-2012, 08:45 PM

So everyone seems to think the post MAF tubes are the way to go. I have the FI CBE and HFCs and went with K&N drop-ins instead of doing a gen 3 CAI. Will there be any tangible benefit to me to add the post MAF tubes now also? Are they easy to install?

batman_4 · 01-24-2012, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucelidat

So everyone seems to think the post MAF tubes are the way to go. I have the FI CBE and HFCs and went with K&N drop-ins instead of doing a gen 3 CAI. Will there be any tangible benefit to me to add the post MAF tubes now also? Are they easy to install?

yes they are relatively easy to install... think of it like this, the stock post MAF tubes have an accordion-like structure as opposed to the aftermarket MAF tubes which are smooth. imo i would think, the smoother the airflow the better

01-23-2012, 03:32 PM	#36 (permalink)
TheGreatOne A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Montreal, Canada Age: 46 Posts: 1,980 Drives: E60 BMW M5 Rep Power: 21	I was going to do the K&N's plus Post MAF tubes but they HPS tubes were back ordered and then I saw a good deal on slightly used Injen CAI's. Knocking off $150 made it easier to go CAI. So getting more HP, more aggressive sound and a nice looking engine bay made it worth it to me. __________________ 2017 SUBARU STI 2008 E60 M5 - SOLD 2010 40th Anniversary 370Z - SOLD (and missing her)

01-24-2012, 10:18 AM	#38 (permalink)
sfearl1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: St. Louis Posts: 2,300 Drives: 2013 FBO E85 GTR Rep Power: 17	i'm going to try to get a baseline and my cosworth's dynoed soon. i'll have post maf's by then as well __________________ Scott

01-24-2012, 10:37 AM	#39 (permalink)
UNKNOWN_370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: ny'r livn in tx Posts: 8,687 Drives: well over 130m.p.h. Rep Power: 14857	A lot of educated guys on here have modded this car way before many of us. I have modded both G35 and G37 and I am now modding the Z. From what I've learned from these great guys on here is your first mod will net you your largest gains. So if you put on an intake first you will see and feel close to 20hp which is felt. If you do a exhaust first your largest gains will be there. All secondary mods will gain you lower hp gains. This is what I know. Most autos run 13.1 to 13.4 stock. With full bolt on s the numbers drop to about 12.6 to 12.9 seconds on the quarter. On the manuals the average run is 13.3 to 13.6 completly stock. Add bolt ons and 12.8 to 13.2 second quarters become the norm. Opnion #1 So going with complete bolt ons is worth it to some degree. The real question is... where do you want your gains to come from. Ok this ismy logic. To me, $525 on a CAI is not worth it for up to 18hp if my second mod will be an exhaust that cost somewhere between $1300-2200. Installing a quality exhaust like an FI, with post MAFS and a K&N intake filter set as the secondary mod is much more cost effective. The cost will be around $180 vs 525 on the post MAFs and will net the same exact gains than the guy who put the CAI first and the exhaust second. From what I been able to notice though is the guys who opt for stillens and takedas vs. Post MAFS are they lose 3-12hp down low before the rocket backup to base line then gain another 12-14hp, thus giving them this false boost of 20+hp. The exhuast mod seems to drop the least hp before a rise and this is why I choose the exhaust as the first real mod over the intake. The intake in my opinion is the support mod which can be done more cheaply and efficiently than a full stillen G3. If you like the chromey look though and want to pull your front end off everytime you need to clean or replace your G3 filter? Then hey, be my guest. Me personally, I'm not risking the beauty of my cars front end from a cai that nets the same power gains as post mafs if I just start with my exhaust first than start with my CAI... Disclaimer: That's just an opinion and observation based on different cases on here. I do not promote or endorse my statement as a fact or a source for argument or rebuttal. Its just a personal opinion. Opinion #2 In the end... we should all strive for some type of FI if we are serious about power gains? Any bolt on mod is just a base mod anyway. Disclaimer applies here as well. SterlingDrive, Corona, Pearl zed and 1 others like this.

01-24-2012, 11:41 AM	#41 (permalink)
sfearl1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: St. Louis Posts: 2,300 Drives: 2013 FBO E85 GTR Rep Power: 17	__________________ Scott

01-24-2012, 08:45 PM	#44 (permalink)
brucelidat A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: temple city, ca Posts: 2,432 Drives: 2011 370z 7AT GM Sp Rep Power: 30	So everyone seems to think the post MAF tubes are the way to go. I have the FI CBE and HFCs and went with K&N drop-ins instead of doing a gen 3 CAI. Will there be any tangible benefit to me to add the post MAF tubes now also? Are they easy to install? __________________ Works Emotion CR Ultimate - FI CBE w/ 18" resonators - Ecutek - eibach sways - Quaife - FI LTH w/race cats - kw v3 - spl - Topgunz SC - 488whp 398trq

01-23-2012, 02:53 PM	#35 (permalink)
Jsolo Track Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: chicago Posts: 783 Drives: '12 G37 6MT Rep Power: 14	Re: Dyno runs. A single run isn't all that meaningful. Do at least 3-5 runs with each mod, taking the average.

01-24-2012, 06:57 PM	#42 (permalink)
haitech Track Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Austin/Dallas Posts: 922 Drives: 11' 370z Magnetic M6 Rep Power: 14	Very logically put

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