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Is it really worth putting a Cold Air Intake on 370z and what HP gains

Originally Posted by gsxr750 if you look at the stillen dyno chart you will see that the engine really doesn't make any real power gains until 6500 -7000 rpm and

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Old 01-23-2012, 02:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gsxr750 View Post
if you look at the stillen dyno chart you will see that the engine really doesn't make any real power gains until 6500 -7000 rpm and below that range it only makes between 5-8 hp increase, not a really that significant for a $1000 price tag. Also most ppl don't drive their cars close to redline.
There's some gains on the paper, but in reality, I think it's more hp gain in your mind than on the wheel.

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Old 01-23-2012, 02:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by alcheng View Post
There's some gains on the paper, but in reality, I think it's more hp gain in your mind than on the wheel.

If it's on paper then how the hell can it be just in your mind.
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by alcheng View Post
There's some gains on the paper, but in reality, I think it's more hp gain in your mind than on the wheel.


'More', not 'All'.

That couple extra horses at the top end and the louder engine note, make you 'think' the car is much faster, that's what I mean.

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Old 01-22-2012, 10:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Felix 808 View Post
ahh, nothing like a high reading dyno..lol.
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Old 08-26-2012, 01:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I installed AEM ETI CAIs with a Stillen CBE. The filters are DRYFLOW and do not need to be oiled. I had a AEM BruteForce intake with dry filters on my Titan and it really performed well. The filters are placed right in front of each tire, behind the fender liner, and if you punch/Dremel out the two small plastic panels on each side your grill, the filters are about 8 in. to each side of the opening. Huge air flow. Since the openings are so close to the filters they also have water repellent covers you can purchase for about 35 bucks each. I purchased these as well and suggest them if anybody were to open up those areas.


AEM provides a DYNO chart on a '09 Z with these intakes that show a 9.67 HP gain.
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Old 01-22-2012, 03:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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In all honesty it may be heard to feel a 5-10 hp gain, but it is still there. Plus as you slowly make it easier for the engine to breathe and start gaining hp you will notice a difference. If you go from 270whp to 300whp, I bet most people would notice a difference. At the same time if you do your mods one at a time and have a bit of time between each one, I think the sensation of the amount gained wouldn't be as much as if you bolted them all on at once. Just my opinion, but it sounds like you would be happier stock. There are always sacrifices you have to make for more power, the question you need to ask yourself is whether or not you are willing to make those sacrifices.
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Well, I guess you have pretty much answered your question. In your opinion the gains aren't worth the price, although i have never seen them selling for $1k. For somebody who is looking to get every last bit of hp out of their car w/o going to some sort of forced induction, these are probably the best bet. I personally went with the drop-ins and Post-MAF tubes. Eventually, I'll step up to the stillen intakes, but it probably won't be for a while.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:10 AM   #8 (permalink)
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^^ yeah, nobody else here has run them. it was the best performing drop in filter for the Evo X, so i figured i would guinea pig them in the Z

btw, the 350Z filters fit the 370Z air box just fine. same part number.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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^^ yeah, nobody else here has run them. it was the best performing drop in filter for the Evo X, so i figured i would guinea pig them in the Z

btw, the 350Z filters fit the 370Z air box just fine. same part number.
i drove the car for the first time this morning w/ the Cosworth's. me thinks there's a slight improvement in throttle response below 3k rpm's. i'll have to check the good ol' butt dyno again this evening after work and report back
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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i just use the kn drop-ins and post MAF tubes on mine. works great for me..and not loud like the CAI's which is a plus (for me).
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Dyno runs. A single run isn't all that meaningful. Do at least 3-5 runs with each mod, taking the average.
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I was going to do the K&N's plus Post MAF tubes but they HPS tubes were back ordered and then I saw a good deal on slightly used Injen CAI's.

Knocking off $150 made it easier to go CAI. So getting more HP, more aggressive sound and a nice looking engine bay made it worth it to me.
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
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i'm going to try to get a baseline and my cosworth's dynoed soon. i'll have post maf's by then as well
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:37 AM   #14 (permalink)
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A lot of educated guys on here have modded this car way before many of us. I have modded both G35 and G37 and I am now modding the Z. From what I've learned from these great guys on here is your first mod will net you your largest gains. So if you put on an intake first you will see and feel close to 20hp which is felt. If you do a exhaust first your largest gains will be there. All secondary mods will gain you lower hp gains. This is what I know. Most autos run 13.1 to 13.4 stock. With full bolt on s the numbers drop to about 12.6 to 12.9 seconds on the quarter. On the manuals the average run is 13.3 to 13.6 completly stock. Add bolt ons and 12.8 to 13.2 second quarters become the norm.
Opnion #1
So going with complete bolt ons is worth it to some degree. The real question is... where do you want your gains to come from. Ok this ismy logic. To me, $525 on a CAI is not worth it for up to 18hp if my second mod will be an exhaust that cost somewhere between $1300-2200. Installing a quality exhaust like an FI, with post MAFS and a K&N intake filter set as the secondary mod is much more cost effective. The cost will be around $180 vs 525 on the post MAFs and will net the same exact gains than the guy who put the CAI first and the exhaust second.
From what I been able to notice though is the guys who opt for stillens and takedas vs. Post MAFS are they lose 3-12hp down low before the rocket backup to base line then gain another 12-14hp, thus giving them this false boost of 20+hp. The exhuast mod seems to drop the least hp before a rise and this is why I choose the exhaust as the first real mod over the intake. The intake in my opinion is the support mod which can be done more cheaply and efficiently than a full stillen G3. If you like the chromey look though and want to pull your front end off everytime you need to clean or replace your G3 filter? Then hey, be my guest. Me personally, I'm not risking the beauty of my cars front end from a cai that nets the same power gains as post mafs if I just start with my exhaust first than start with my CAI...
Disclaimer:
That's just an opinion and observation based on different cases on here. I do not promote or endorse my statement as a fact or a source for argument or rebuttal. Its just a personal opinion.
Opinion #2
In the end... we should all strive for some type of FI if we are serious about power gains? Any bolt on mod is just a base mod anyway.
Disclaimer applies here as well.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:04 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNKNOWN_370 View Post
A lot of educated guys on here have modded this car way before many of us. I have modded both G35 and G37 and I am now modding the Z. From what I've learned from these great guys on here is your first mod will net you your largest gains. So if you put on an intake first you will see and feel close to 20hp which is felt. If you do a exhaust first your largest gains will be there. All secondary mods will gain you lower hp gains. This is what I know. Most autos run 13.1 to 13.4 stock. With full bolt on s the numbers drop to about 12.6 to 12.9 seconds on the quarter. On the manuals the average run is 13.3 to 13.6 completly stock. Add bolt ons and 12.8 to 13.2 second quarters become the norm.
Opnion #1
So going with complete bolt ons is worth it to some degree. The real question is... where do you want your gains to come from. Ok this ismy logic. To me, $525 on a CAI is not worth it for up to 18hp if my second mod will be an exhaust that cost somewhere between $1300-2200. Installing a quality exhaust like an FI, with post MAFS and a K&N intake filter set as the secondary mod is much more cost effective. The cost will be around $180 vs 525 on the post MAFs and will net the same exact gains than the guy who put the CAI first and the exhaust second.
From what I been able to notice though is the guys who opt for stillens and takedas vs. Post MAFS are they lose 3-12hp down low before the rocket backup to base line then gain another 12-14hp, thus giving them this false boost of 20+hp. The exhuast mod seems to drop the least hp before a rise and this is why I choose the exhaust as the first real mod over the intake. The intake in my opinion is the support mod which can be done more cheaply and efficiently than a full stillen G3. If you like the chromey look though and want to pull your front end off everytime you need to clean or replace your G3 filter? Then hey, be my guest. Me personally, I'm not risking the beauty of my cars front end from a cai that nets the same power gains as post mafs if I just start with my exhaust first than start with my CAI...
Disclaimer:
That's just an opinion and observation based on different cases on here. I do not promote or endorse my statement as a fact or a source for argument or rebuttal. Its just a personal opinion.
Opinion #2
In the end... we should all strive for some type of FI if we are serious about power gains? Any bolt on mod is just a base mod anyway.
Disclaimer applies here as well.
You make a great deal of sense.
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