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Is it really worth putting a Cold Air Intake on 370z and what HP gains

if you look at the stillen dyno chart you will see that the engine really doesn't make any real power gains until 6500 -7000 rpm and below that range it

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Old 01-22-2012, 08:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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if you look at the stillen dyno chart you will see that the engine really doesn't make any real power gains until 6500 -7000 rpm and below that range it only makes between 5-8 hp increase, not a really that significant for a $1000 price tag. Also most ppl don't drive their cars close to redline.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
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if you look at the stillen dyno chart you will see that the engine really doesn't make any real power gains until 6500 -7000 rpm and below that range it only makes between 5-8 hp increase, not a really that significant for a $1000 price tag. Also most ppl don't drive their cars close to redline.
That was the same conclusion I came to. I think the cai kits are around $500 though not $1k. Still not worth it unless you are out to try and squeeze every single possible horse you can out of the motor. And if thats the case you should be thinking turbos/supercharger...
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That was the same conclusion I came to. I think the cai kits are around $500 though not $1k. Still not worth it unless you are out to try and squeeze every single possible horse you can out of the motor. And if thats the case you should be thinking turbos/supercharger...
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Turbo's work great when new, but after the mileage gets past 50K, they usually need replacement, due to impeller or bearing problems and even carbon build up.

They also put a lot of stress on the motor, they are good for racing apllications , but not that good for driving your car to high mileage standards.

I had an older 85 z turbo that had the turbo replaced 3 times in 40K miles, according to the original owners reciepts. I drove for about 10k and sold it.
Better to go with CUBIC INCHES or Stroking a motor as compared to turbo etc.
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Turbo's work great when new, but after the mileage gets past 50K, they usually need replacement, due to impeller or bearing problems and even carbon build up.

They also put a lot of stress on the motor, they are good for racing apllications , but not that good for driving your car to high mileage standards.

I had an older 85 z turbo that had the turbo replaced 3 times in 40K miles, according to the original owners reciepts. I drove for about 10k and sold it.
Better to go with CUBIC INCHES or Stroking a motor as compared to turbo etc.
I had a 1983 280zx turbo that never had turbo problems. Ran for 243k, 100k was spent at 8PSI on the stock turbo (Garret TB03) with intake (K&N custom CAI) and exhaust (custom DP-back 3" mandrel bent).

I had a 1988 Toyota Supra Turbo with 212k when I sold her after running 70k on the stock CT-26 turbo at 12-13psi. K&N cone intake, Lexus MAF, 3" mandrel bent DP-back. I never had any turbo problems and the most extensive repairs I ever did on the car was replacing the headgasket on the 7mgte.

I don't believe the reliability or the longevity of the motors of these vehicles were compromised by the K&N filter or modifying the turbos. Both of those cars were overboosted and ran that way for over 50k. If there was a drop in power, it's possible I didn't feel it, but the track numbers didn't change, and they certainly didn't get replaced.

And just for an apples to apples story - my brother had a 1986 300zx turbo - he ran it with K&N/Exaust under ~9psi (T3) for about 5 years before he wrecked it. Yes, the turbo was salvagable.

When you talk about "turbos", which turbos are you talking about and for what engines? How much psi? Nothing you said about turbos reflects my personal experience, nor did I get that impression from the people at zcar.com or supraforums.com who also do turbo builds. Where is all this coming from?
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gsxr750 View Post
if you look at the stillen dyno chart you will see that the engine really doesn't make any real power gains until 6500 -7000 rpm and below that range it only makes between 5-8 hp increase, not a really that significant for a $1000 price tag. Also most ppl don't drive their cars close to redline.
and also dont forget, numbers shrink a bunch once other bolt ons are added (exhaust, HFC's or TP's...)
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gsxr750 View Post
if you look at the stillen dyno chart you will see that the engine really doesn't make any real power gains until 6500 -7000 rpm and below that range it only makes between 5-8 hp increase, not a really that significant for a $1000 price tag. Also most ppl don't drive their cars close to redline.
There's some gains on the paper, but in reality, I think it's more hp gain in your mind than on the wheel.

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Old 01-23-2012, 02:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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There's some gains on the paper, but in reality, I think it's more hp gain in your mind than on the wheel.

If it's on paper then how the hell can it be just in your mind.
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If it's on paper then how the hell can it be just in your mind.
Haha true. I'm in the boat of drop-ins and tubes though, and it would be great if we had dyno results for these. I'm really curious if they yield similar results for less than half the cost of CAI's.
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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There's some gains on the paper, but in reality, I think it's more hp gain in your mind than on the wheel.


'More', not 'All'.

That couple extra horses at the top end and the louder engine note, make you 'think' the car is much faster, that's what I mean.

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Old 01-23-2012, 02:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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'More', not 'All'.

That couple extra horses at the top end and the louder engine note, make you 'think' the car is much faster, that's what I mean.

The noise my engine makes doesn't make it seem louder or faster,the 305hp at the tire handle that all by themselves.
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