Demon Bolts

joshs09slvrZ · 09-12-2011, 05:34 PM

Is there anyway to get at these bolts from underneath or is it necessary to go in from the hood?

SPOHN · 09-12-2011, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joshs09slvrZ

Is there anyway to get at these bolts from underneath or is it necessary to go in from the hood?

Yes you have to go under the hood. But I have heard of people going threw the fender (at least on the drivers side) to have there torched off due to the bolt being stripped.

joshs09slvrZ · 09-12-2011, 07:26 PM

Hmm...I have a Dremmel...I wonder if I could just cut the damn thing off lol.

Methodical4u · 09-12-2011, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joshs09slvrZ

Hmm...I have a Dremmel...I wonder if I could just cut the damn thing off lol.

I wouldn't... I would keep soaking them all in pb blaster. The bolt is at an angle that is perfect to reach with 30" of extensions just put your socket set-up on the bolt and make sure it's at that same angle. I actually removed the strut tower brace, the post maf tubes and that really gives you a lot more room to see the bolt easily.

SPOHN · 09-12-2011, 08:07 PM

^ correct

joshs09slvrZ · 09-13-2011, 05:15 PM

Sounds like a game plan to me!

Dystopia · 04-13-2013, 08:02 AM

Not to raise a dead thread but I am going to tackle this job sometime this morning. Any last words of advice?? I have all the necessary tools to do the job but was just wondering if there were any more tips or tricks I could apply.

tjlazer · 04-13-2013, 09:09 AM

PB blast the bolts for a bit if you can, use a 6 point socket set and try to not strip the bolts. Remove the CAI for better access and good luck! Yer gonna need it!!!

SPOHN · 04-13-2013, 01:17 PM

PB Blast the car now for tomorrow. Remove intakes. No reason at all you should need a swivel. Makes it that much worse. It's a straight shot. Six point socket (hopefully impact socket) and a two foot breaker bar helps a lot.

Dystopia · 04-14-2013, 07:51 AM

Got the bastards! Used Liquid Wrench instead of PB and the came off without a problem. Barely a creak out of the drivers side and the passenger side came off even easier. Slow and steady pressure was key here!

This was a new car with 1200 miles so I am sure that helped as people have said.

Could not figure out a way to fit my impact socket on the drivers side. Ended up using 1/2 universal and socket. Thanks for the advice guys. Couldn't have done this job without this forum!!

chrischhorn · 04-14-2013, 12:53 PM

been a while since a clean success story was posted lol.

dP3NGU1N · 04-14-2013, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christian370z

^ Agreed completely with Spohn. I soaked one bolt with PB blaster and did nothing with the other. I then started the car for 10-20 seconds to get the bolts slightly warm. The one with the PB blaster came off nice and cleanly. The one I didn't? I sheared the stud off completely.

I used all 1/2" impact extensions, a 6 PT impact socket, and a 3' breaker bar. I also did not remove any of the intake, I only had to loosen the driver's side slightly to squeeze the socket and extensions through.

I did this all on the garage floor and it took me about 4 hours with little mechanical experience. Installing the new cats is soooo much easier, you will be using all new bolts which makes future removal much easier as well.

^This guy mentions using new bolts. I bought my HFCs used and the guy didn't give me any bolts. Is it necessary to use new ones and, if so, where can I buy them from?

scionide · 04-14-2013, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dP3NGU1N

^This guy mentions using new bolts. I bought my HFCs used and the guy didn't give me any bolts. Is it necessary to use new ones and, if so, where can I buy them from?

Same situation I had, if you know the sizes you can just goto home depot and buy them. I was told by the company that made my hfcs some mixed (and wrong) info...basically theres one stud attached to the header side, so you'll at least need two new bolts n nuts per side.

OEM hardware could work but thats provided nothing breaks during removal

critical · 04-14-2013, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrischhorn

been a while since a clean success story was posted lol.

Never worked on an exhaust before or really any car before, and I had a clean run

thanks to all the past failures lol and knowledge here.

what i did:

jack up car. spray bolts with PB Blaster. drive car around to heat up exhaust again. jack up car. spray bolt before using a 6 point deep impact socket and breaker bar. tighten bolt first to get it moving. go the other way and losen/remove bolt.

for the two bolts that had to be removed through the engine bay I used a breaker bar and only impact extensions, most of them were swivel extensions. didn't have to remove the Z1 post MAF tubes. for these bolts i placed the impact socket on the bolt first and from under the car and then had someone feed me the extensions so i knew it was flush and wouldn't strip and pressed into the breaker bar with one hand so it stayed flush as i was turning the breaker bar.

used so much force on the top two bolts that i fell once they loosened and wasn't sure what happened at first.

success, no broken bolts and a clean install thanks to the forum members here.

09-12-2011, 08:07 PM	#20 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 45 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	^ correct __________________

04-13-2013, 09:09 AM	#23 (permalink)
tjlazer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tacoma Age: 52 Posts: 2,496 Drives: Z34, R35 Rep Power: 19	PB blast the bolts for a bit if you can, use a 6 point socket set and try to not strip the bolts. Remove the CAI for better access and good luck! Yer gonna need it!!! SPOHN likes this. __________________ 2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV

04-13-2013, 01:17 PM	#24 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 45 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	PB Blast the car now for tomorrow. Remove intakes. No reason at all you should need a swivel. Makes it that much worse. It's a straight shot. Six point socket (hopefully impact socket) and a two foot breaker bar helps a lot. __________________

04-14-2013, 12:53 PM	#26 (permalink)
chrischhorn A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Mililani, HI Posts: 1,566 Drives: 2014 Juke Nismo RS Rep Power: 16	been a while since a clean success story was posted lol. __________________ R.I.P. 8/01/13 1SlowZ One day I'll have another....

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09-12-2011, 05:34 PM	#16 (permalink)
joshs09slvrZ Track Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Spring Hill, FL Posts: 547 Drives: 09 7AT 370Z Rep Power: 16	Is there anyway to get at these bolts from underneath or is it necessary to go in from the hood?

09-12-2011, 07:26 PM	#18 (permalink)
joshs09slvrZ Track Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Spring Hill, FL Posts: 547 Drives: 09 7AT 370Z Rep Power: 16	Hmm...I have a Dremmel...I wonder if I could just cut the damn thing off lol.

09-13-2011, 05:15 PM	#21 (permalink)
joshs09slvrZ Track Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Spring Hill, FL Posts: 547 Drives: 09 7AT 370Z Rep Power: 16	Sounds like a game plan to me!

04-13-2013, 08:02 AM	#22 (permalink)
Dystopia Base Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: NJ Posts: 48 Drives: 12' VW GTI Rep Power: 12	Not to raise a dead thread but I am going to tackle this job sometime this morning. Any last words of advice?? I have all the necessary tools to do the job but was just wondering if there were any more tips or tricks I could apply.