General consensus on boltons to gain the most HP.

red6spd

Its been proven that the first mod you do to the Z nets you about 15-20HP, after that you are only going to gain 5-10 maybe less with all the other mods. Also what I see is missing from this thread is the importance of a tune if you have fill bolt-on's. The Z tends to run a little lean with CAI, CBE,TP, so you might want to look into a tune as a saftey precaution as well. From what I have seen on this forum most guys are putting down 275-285WHP bone stock. After full bolt-on's and a tune it looks like there making about 330-340WHP so thats a gain of about 55+ HP

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2010 Base+Sport 6spd: Stillen G3, FI Non-Resonated CBE, FI Non-Resonated Test Pipes, UpRev Tuned, Custom 24R Oil Cooler, JDM Rear Fog-OEM Harness.
???Whp ???WTQ (Will find out come spring time)

pulpz

Which I would be OK with, assuming ~$3K investment. Keeps NA reliability, resale, and avoids headaches of FI which done right will push ~$10K.

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2016 Cayman GTS 6MT / 2017 Q60 Sport / 2012 Acura TL SH-AWD / 2015 Lexus IS 350 AWD F-Sport (Sold) / 2009 PG 370Z Sport 6MT, (Sold) / 2003 SS 350Z Enthusiast 6MT (Sold)

Jordo!

No. Everyone's car will respond similarly because everyone has the same motor.

The problem is you have to make comparisons using the same type of dyno (or dyno settings if not a dynojet), same correction factor, and have a clear baseline for comparison. Across dynos, the percentage gain should be similar for a given mod.

The data from dynojets is pretty clear and the gains I've seen from various mods on different members' cars are predictiable.

The major variable seems to be that the first breather mod often seems to gain more power than when the same mod is the second or third bolt on (e.g., intakes seem to result in larger net gains when done first, but not second or third).

I'm not exactly sure why that is, but for simplicity, let's just assume it's due in part to limited room for improvement and dimnishing returns as you get closer to optimized VE for the motor (VVEL tuning might open up more possiblities there...)

The only possible exception might be removal of the factory cats, which does seem to be a consistent bottle neck that always nets decent gains; although again, probably higher if done first.

Put your car on a dynojet, use SAE correction, and I can pretty much guarantee you that if your motor is sound, bone stock you will put down about 273 whp +/-5 (I'd say 288 - 290 +/-5 for a Nismo).

I can give you guys more accurate estimates as I get more data -- please send me those drf's if you got 'em

Who is making 330-340 whp N/A? Not on a dynojet. Link?

Actually I've hardly seen anyone break 300 on a dynojet (especially SAE corrected -- STD tends to overcorrect towards higher values) who isn't in a modded Nismo. I think you may be mistaken...

And yet, I've seen no independnet dynos that report equivalent gains... Sorry, but I'm not buying it. Also, see my comment about the first breather mod's effect.

EDIT: Also, STD correction almost always skews high (appropriate for FI, but tends to overestiamte for NA).

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red6spd

Who is making 330-340 whp N/A? Not on a dynojet. Link?

Actually I've hardly seen anyone break 300 on a dynojet (especially SAE corrected -- STD tends to overcorrect towards higher values) who isn't in a modded Nismo. I think you may be mistaken...


And yet, I've seen no independnet dynos that report equivalent gains... Sorry, but I'm not buying it. Also, see my comment about the first breather mod's effect.



So guys are not making over 300 wheel on a dyno jet with full bolt-on's?? So what are they putting down stock like 240-250HP?? Where is all that 332HP going to???? My dyno was done on a Mustang I believe, and I have seen similar results on a Dyno Dynamics.

Your also saying that a car with 332HP with full bolt-on's and a good tune is barely breaking 300 wheel if at all??? Dam these cars suck I guess.

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2010 Base+Sport 6spd: Stillen G3, FI Non-Resonated CBE, FI Non-Resonated Test Pipes, UpRev Tuned, Custom 24R Oil Cooler, JDM Rear Fog-OEM Harness.
???Whp ???WTQ (Will find out come spring time)

Jordo!

It depends on the dyno -- some are adjusted to read high or low more easily than others.

Dynojets are very consistent, because the weight of the drum is a fixed variable, unlike the degree of load that can be adjusted on some
other dynos.

That said, those with adjustable load are better for tuning.

For a comparison of different kinds of dynos on the 350Z, see here Turbo Magazine's Dyno Dash - Tech Review - Turbo Magazine

and for a table that summarizes the % change, here
Dyno Comparison - NewCelica.org Forum

Stock 370's put down about 273 +/-5 on a dynojet with SAE correction. Drive train losses appear to be around 16.5 - 17.5%, with no clear difference between AT and MT.

Stock Nismos put down around 288-290 +/-5 (need more data to verify). My guess is that the difference is mainly due to a different VVEL tune, as they always seem to make a bit more than regular Z's with similar mods and similar fuel and spark tuning.

Tell me your mods, and I'll tell you what you'll most likely come in at on a dynojet with SAE correction. If I'm wildly off, I owe you a beer

Based on the data I've collected and after reviewing other dynojet dynos, it looks like you need LTH, pulleys, AND a tune to creep into the 310's. Everyone else with full bolt-ons and a tune should just about break 300 +/-5.

More should be possible once VVEL can be tuned.

Check out my dyno thread for lots of details and commentary on the effect of various mods if interested

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samb03

I am looking at $/hp ratio. I don't have to squeeze every hp out of it. CAI and TP for 600-750 and net 20hp isn't bad. Another 5hp for $1000-1500 is tough for me to justify.

Jordo!

^^^Trust me on this.

I would say 1.5 - 3.0% more power at various points in the rev range. You might be able to get similar gains with just a Y pipe.

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Bodytechz

Jordo, you say that the HPS tubes are $110, is that for a set or each? Thanks!

Jordo!

Yep for the set. I think I paid $108 shipped for mine.

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370Z JT

^just for fun. What would I put down on 91 octane on a dynojet with

Invidia Gemini Catback
Stillen G3 intake
NST pulley
Motor dyne manifold
Motor dyne ART pipes
Up rev tune.

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Jordo!

The octane probably won't matter all that much; the Z doesn't seem to like too much extra advance at peak, and we get 93 down here.

um... lets see. Assuming a baseline of 275 (give or take) you should definitely be over 300 whp SAE corrected, but it's hard to say with the Motordyne IM as it tends to make gains lower in the rev range, and may actually hurt peak a bit.

I'll make an optimistic guess of 303 - 308 SAE corrected.

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Z eliminator

My base line is 264 rwhp on a dyno jet set at 700 ft elevation. With full bolt ons i make 300 rwhp SAE. I had one pull where is made 309. Converted to STD it made 318 and Actual power it made 320. I have the dyno charts for the above 3 runs after they were converted to each of the uniys.
We later discovered that the actual elevation is 300 FT.
Does any body know how much of difference 400 FT of elevaton would make in my #'s.
Theses #'s were before I put the Motordyne intake on. I gained 1 rwhp with it top end and from 3800 to 7000 rpm it made 13 to 15 LBs more torque and 8 to 12 rwhp more. but the top end was the same.
On the 1/4 mile 0 to 1000 ft times were way quicker and 3 mph faster but it ran the same times in the 1/4 mile.
These are good #'s for a 7 AT.

Z

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12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.

Jordo!

Any wild chance you can get the drf's? If so would you mind sharing them me?

I always thought your dyno was bit on the low side for baseline, but from what I've seen the range is roughly 268 - 278, so it's very close to the rest of the data points.

Also, was that baseline SAE corrected? If uncorrected it could be the ambient conditions were knocking out a couple of ponies, or possibly, the engine needed a bit more break in time -- how many miles on the engine when you got your baseline?

Also, as we've both noticed, the ECU takes a full pulls to adjust itself, so if you only got in 2-3 pulls, it might have dyoned a tad higher on the next few runs. Hard to say.

I'm not sure exactly how much the difference in elevation would make, but presumably it would result in some degree of overcorrection upwards, possibly by 1-2%

If you can get me your drfs I can probably figure out more of what's going on. At minimum, I can tell you the correction factor value that was used (might also be noted on the printout).

We're pretty much at 0 elevation here in FL, so for us the only power killers are heat and humidity

STD tends to overcorrect upwards for NA engines -- 309 is probably spot on as a conservative estimate and 318 would be a slightly high "bragging rights" dyno

Not sure what you mean by "actual power", but if we estimate your drivetrain losses as measured by that particular dyno (assuming same dyno all runs) to be around 21% (which, BTW, is waaaaay higher than indicated by most dynojets, so again, I think you just had an unusually low baseline), your power to the crank now would be around 391 (SAE) to 402 (STD).

Assuming you just had a wonky baseline, going by the typically seen 16 -18% drivetrain losses would put you a bit lower at the crank of course... either way, the 300 - 309 whp (what matters) ball park sounds about right -- sweet!

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mspeasl

First thing is not to do them all at once...........! As an old time drag racer you soon learn that there are some things that cancel others out.... The only way to be sure what works and what does not is to do one thing at a time. Then go to the strip and test it if you do not have access to a Dyno.

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Mspeasl - Central Illinois
2009 - Solid Red, M6 '370' Sport/Touring (Delivered 7 April 09)

Z eliminator

My first base line pull was 260.4 sae rwhp. Then it hit 264 on the next 2 pulls once we let the engine cool down.

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12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.