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STILLEN Longtube G3 Intakes. Review, Dyno and Impressions.

did you guys dyno with the bumper on? i am not sure if it will make a difference, but the location of the intakes appears to be more covered than

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Old 03-27-2009, 10:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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did you guys dyno with the bumper on? i am not sure if it will make a difference, but the location of the intakes appears to be more covered than what i was thinking... is it located where air doesn't naturally flow to because am thinking the foam and the chasis would block circulation?... i don't know if this even matters but im curious... the good thing about it though, it is that for sure water is not going to get to it... then again i am looking at it through pictures so am not quite sure...
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Old 03-27-2009, 10:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Crazy results, thanks for doing this!

So the AFR thing is interesting to me - do you have that info from either of the baseline runs? With the intakes you're hitting at or slightly under 11.8, which if anything sounds a bit on the rich side of a perfect tune. I was expecting that some of the gains were coming from the new intake leaning things out, so this seems weird (but in a good way) to me. Am I even thinking about all this correctly?
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Old 03-27-2009, 10:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Wow, I really didn't think that intakes would be able to make this kind of difference on a VQ engine. I thought they already breathed pretty well. So with HFC and Stillen exhaust you could be looking at 310whp, awesome!
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Old 03-27-2009, 10:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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did you guys dyno with the bumper on? i am not sure if it will make a difference, but the location of the intakes appears to be more covered than what i was thinking... is it located where air doesn't naturally flow to because am thinking the foam and the chasis would block circulation?... i don't know if this even matters but im curious... the good thing about it though, it is that for sure water is not going to get to it... then again i am looking at it through pictures so am not quite sure...
I would suspect this is a non-issue. You're not really trying to force air into the filters. When you hit the throttle, they *suck* the air in. As long as they're not placed in some wierd low-pressure area, they'll pull in whatever air they need just fine. The important thing is that the air they have available to suck is cold (relatively speaking). They look fine to me from a water perspective as well, assuming you don't do something stupid like ram a garden hose nozzle up under your intake grille and try to kill them.
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Old 03-27-2009, 10:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I would suspect this is a non-issue. You're not really trying to force air into the filters. When you hit the throttle, they *suck* the air in. As long as they're not placed in some wierd low-pressure area, they'll pull in whatever air they need just fine. The important thing is that the air they have available to suck is cold (relatively speaking). They look fine to me from a water perspective as well, assuming you don't do something stupid like ram a garden hose nozzle up under your intake grille and try to kill them.
Thanks for the explanation! also this is indeed an amazing write up! thanks man... if i was working for STILLEN i would continue sending you products to perform independent testing/write ups... this pretty much made my decision to purchase the intakes...
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Old 03-28-2009, 09:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wstar View Post
I would suspect this is a non-issue. You're not really trying to force air into the filters. When you hit the throttle, they *suck* the air in. As long as they're not placed in some wierd low-pressure area, they'll pull in whatever air they need just fine. The important thing is that the air they have available to suck is cold (relatively speaking). They look fine to me from a water perspective as well, assuming you don't do something stupid like ram a garden hose nozzle up under your intake grille and try to kill them.
Still, it'd be nice to know for sure rather than suspecting. I mean, they were on the dyno, the bumper was probably sitting a few feet away... would have been nice for them to slip it on and see if there's a difference.
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Old 03-28-2009, 09:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Still, it'd be nice to know for sure rather than suspecting. I mean, they were on the dyno, the bumper was probably sitting a few feet away... would have been nice for them to slip it on and see if there's a difference.
Why so you can retro fit it to your kia sedona?? Do you even have a 370z???
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Old 03-28-2009, 09:20 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Why so you can retro fit it to your kia sedona?? Do you even have a 370z???
*sigh*....

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Old 03-28-2009, 09:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I do, and my post was a joke.. A lot of haters in the forum and an awful lot of people with no Z that like to make comments.
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Old 03-28-2009, 09:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I do, and my post was a joke.. A lot of haters in the forum and an awful lot of people with no Z that like to make comments.
Very true. He's not one, though. And the point is fairly valid, I'd have probably dyno-ed with the bumper on just to close off any loose ends. But, Im sure, RCZ will baseline it again once he goes to do his exhaust.

And why does someone need to have a Z to make a comment about dyno tuning with a bumper on, anyway? heh. Or was that simply saying that people without Z's or much knowledge about cars in general like to come on here and make blanket statements?
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Old 03-28-2009, 02:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Nice Posting and information/pictures for the intakes.

I'm sold. Good stuff
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Old 03-28-2009, 02:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hmm have a couple questions.

1) After install would be recommended to reset the ECU?

2) Is a tune necessary or beneficial after this mod i.e. will you see even more gains after a tune?
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Old 03-28-2009, 02:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hmm have a couple questions.

1) After install would be recommended to reset the ECU?

2) Is a tune necessary or beneficial after this mod i.e. will you see even more gains after a tune?
Although I dont know how to reset the ECU right now, I know anytime you much with the intake, it was good to reset LS1's ECU - this Im sure is no different.

Tune will almost always be beneficial. Necessary, no.
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Old 03-28-2009, 02:52 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Although I dont know how to reset the ECU right now, I know anytime you much with the intake, it was good to reset LS1's ECU - this Im sure is no different.

Tune will almost always be beneficial. Necessary, no.
I think for the ECU reset on the 370z and Same for G37 there is a Pedal code which is a little harder and you can just disconnect the Negative battery cable overnight. But you lose radio presets.

The pedal code has been in Nissans and Infiniti's I believe since the 98 Maxima. This is what i found through research. But G37 drivers can confirm!
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Old 03-28-2009, 02:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I think for the ECU reset on the 370z and Same for G37 there is a Pedal code which is a little harder and you can just disconnect the Negative battery cable overnight. But you lose radio presets.

The pedal code has been in Nissans and Infiniti's I believe since the 98 Maxima. This is what i found through research. But G37 drivers can confirm!
I disconnected my battery after the exhaust install, and did the same thing after the intake install. I just jot down all my settings on a sheet of paper so that I can easily program everything back to the way I want it. Interestingly enough, you lose all your radio presets, but not any of the XM presets. Other stuff that has to be set back includes audio settings, shift light rpm, oh and this is an important one -- when you hook the battery back up, SRM is off.
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