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wstar, my point exactly, we don't go fast enough for ram air to matter. Interesting point on the Mine's holes, as I had not imagined the Gen3 intakes would be
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#1 (permalink) |
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wstar, my point exactly, we don't go fast enough for ram air to matter.
Interesting point on the Mine's holes, as I had not imagined the Gen3 intakes would be closer to the center. Perhaps that is the solution already, meaning without water hitting the filter directly, and maybe being even a bit safer and moving the wholes down a little sop the air filter would reside above the openings, would mitigate any chance of water getting in. |
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Well considering the Mine's install instruction most likely amount to 'cut hole here and stick this in with glue', you can probably adjust the spacing to whatever's most optimal.
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The second (bottom) product on this page is the one:
http://www.mines-wave.com/english/CA.../AIR_SCOOP.htm A quick google search of 'mine's air scoop' shows there are a few sources shipping in the US, but looks like about $1K, which imho is ridiculous for the part. It's basically a pretty liner for two holes you cut in your bumper. I'm sure someone local could custom fabricate a clone far cheaper. |
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Excellent stuff, I agree, highly recommended!
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To clarify, if you have a system that gets cold air, you will get a gain of about 1-1.5% per every 10 degree drop of intake air temp vs hot underhood air. If you made that system a ram air, it would only improve about .5-1 percent total.
If you get the pressure change that the ram air creates, you can calculate the power gain easily and you will find the the air density is incresed more by dropping the temp than the slight gains the ram air makes. Of course Ram air is good and helps but its more important to get cold air by a factor of almost 2 in most cases. |
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If it is your intention to actually add HP with an intake, it is better to actually draw "real" cold air , rather than suck "more" hot engine bay or radiator.
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I am thinking that an actual moving car might have less issues with the heat than a car on the dyno, even with a huge fan. More air moving around the car might affect airflow in this area to where it makes its full power. I htink someone here monitered the IAT with this intake under actual driving and found the temps to be good. I think to be fair to Stillen I'll dig up the nose off dyno chart and show that and let the readers make their own conclusions. |
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Hmm...what ramifications might his have on dyno tuning? Like will the difference in airflow with the car on a dyno vs. real-world driving be enough to invalidate or compromise the ECU map loaded in from a dyno tune?
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I would imagine that you'd have small differences, yes, given the fact that on a dyno, the engine is fighting the resistance of the rollers. It would depend on the dyno manufacturer and workings, but they'd have to try and simulate the increase in aerodynamic and rolling drag, as well as air compression effects after about 100 mph.
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What I think we should do is to put a thermocouple in the area of the air fliters and see whats actualy going in when the car is being driven. Another thing I was thinking of is perhaps there is radiant heat transfer from the radiator. |
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We need to put a dyno in a wind tunnel and run some tests.
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