MOTORDYNE ART Pipes - Review

37drift · 08-19-2011, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kosstick

It sounds like grinding right! Lol it first sounded like metal being dragged now it kinda sounds like grinding. Im at the same mileage as you now (About 500, I got it on friday, yes I know I drive A LOT). So Ill keep you posted when it dies down. Quick tip the rattle does not appear if you downshift when coming to a stop lol.

started off sounding like a couple tiny pieces of ceramic bouncing around. the sound was very high pitched and the pieces sounded small. that eventually worked itself into sounding like a couple steel ball bearings bouncing around inside there. little bit deeper sound. pieces bounced longer after i let off the throttle. yesterday it sounded like a single marble. like, a large one. much louder, deeper clanking. today on the way to work was by far the worst. sounded like a flat metal plate bouncing around. sound is present under any driving condition.

i find myself shifting before the car hits 2,000 rpms to keep the volume of the clanking to a minimum. this is not fun. almost drove my vw to work today in order to avoid the clanking. i've really got to get this under control.

AlphaSnacks · 08-19-2011, 12:16 PM

Don't shift that low. We all told you to punch it and heat the ART Pipes really well. Drive it hard for a day or two, it goes away.

37drift · 08-19-2011, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arnold K.

Don't shift that low. We all told you to punch it and heat the ART Pipes really well. Drive it hard for a day or two, it goes away.

I hear you. but man, I scorched the thing all the way home and back to work on the highway this morning. I don't understand how or why this is considered "Normal" break in. I'm a little uncomfortable with the fact that I'm screaming up and down the highway so that I can get a product to settle properly. The truth of the matter is that I don't *normally* drive like this off of the track. A pull at a stop light here or there, maybe, but this is excessive. Seems like there has to be some sort of agent or alternate product that can be used in order to get around this terrible sound.

Sound is absolutely unchanged, from cold start up all the way until I pull in my parking spot at work today. That includes a couple redline shifts, some goosing the throttle, and all around abuse that I wouldn't normally subject the engine to. No change at all. If it was a little sound, I'd be able to deal with it better, but this sounds like someone banging a serving spoon on an empty coffee can. Getting pretty frustrated with this.

Motordyne · 08-19-2011, 01:08 PM

Let it break in to 1500 miles. If it doesn't dissipate we will replace them for you.

AlphaSnacks · 08-19-2011, 01:17 PM

Also, make sure everything is tight. Did you make sure to cut the bolt? And what exhaust do you have? Did you make sure it isn't hitting the cross member?

The rattle for most of us didn't exist past 3500RPM. It mostly happened between 1500-3000RPM somewhere.

kosstick · 08-19-2011, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 37drift

I hear you. but man, I scorched the thing all the way home and back to work on the highway this morning. I don't understand how or why this is considered "Normal" break in. I'm a little uncomfortable with the fact that I'm screaming up and down the highway so that I can get a product to settle properly. The truth of the matter is that I don't *normally* drive like this off of the track. A pull at a stop light here or there, maybe, but this is excessive. Seems like there has to be some sort of agent or alternate product that can be used in order to get around this terrible sound.

Sound is absolutely unchanged, from cold start up all the way until I pull in my parking spot at work today. That includes a couple redline shifts, some goosing the throttle, and all around abuse that I wouldn't normally subject the engine to. No change at all. If it was a little sound, I'd be able to deal with it better, but this sounds like someone banging a serving spoon on an empty coffee can. Getting pretty frustrated with this.

Sound should go away bro. I am in the same boat as you and trust me itll be worth it. You and I both have G37's and around same mileage Ill keep you posted if there is change!

370Z JT · 08-19-2011, 01:19 PM

Man I know how you feel drift. I was so embarrased to drive the Z with all the rattling. I even made an appointment with a shop to have them inspect the pipes. Drive 30 minutes on the highway and upon arriving to the shop, I couldn't reproduce the rattling. Lol

I couldn't believe a rattling sound is part of the break in process either but I guess Motordyne knows their products.

kosstick · 08-19-2011, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arnold K.

Also, make sure everything is tight. Did you make sure to cut the bolt? And what exhaust do you have? Did you make sure it isn't hitting the cross member?

The rattle for most of us didn't exist past 3500RPM. It mostly happened between 1500-3000RPM somewhere.

I know we cut the bolt on the first batch but I can't remember it exactly. Tony do you have a pdf of the instruction manual?

37drift · 08-19-2011, 01:25 PM

I was on a creeper at 6:30 am this morning under my car, checking for anything loose or banging. Bolts are torqued, clearance is no issue. It's a perfect, text book installation. I started the car up and got under it. Sound is from inside the chamber. Can't tell if it's one or both, because the one closest to my ear drowns the other out.

My family owns a machine shop and we build race engines for a living. You have no idea how much of an earful I'm catching from my brother and our mechanics about this. I've been the laughing stock for 2 days now. "Ask him how much he paid for that rattle!"

azn370z · 08-19-2011, 01:49 PM

Can I get a price for the tp to 98275?

Armonster · 08-19-2011, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 37drift

I was on a creeper at 6:30 am this morning under my car, checking for anything loose or banging. Bolts are torqued, clearance is no issue. It's a perfect, text book installation. I started the car up and got under it. Sound is from inside the chamber. Can't tell if it's one or both, because the one closest to my ear drowns the other out.

My family owns a machine shop and we build race engines for a living. You have no idea how much of an earful I'm catching from my brother and our mechanics about this. I've been the laughing stock for 2 days now. "Ask him how much he paid for that rattle!"

Better head up to the mountains this weekend and get your

on.

Motordyne · 08-19-2011, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azn370z

Can I get a price for the tp to 98275?

They are in stock and we have free mainland shipping at the first of each month $585 shipped.

Motordyne · 08-19-2011, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 370Z JT

I couldn't believe a rattling sound is part of the break in process either but I guess Motordyne knows their products.

At least for this fiberglass, the 1500 mile break in process is such that the fiberglass goes from semi soft, to a solid mass and then back to soft and fluffy again. Its due to the silica binder being used to keep the fibers under control during manufacturing and handling.

370Z JT · 08-19-2011, 02:14 PM

Does the silica release a smell as well? I'm starting to smell something like burning plastic within the last few days.

Motordyne · 08-19-2011, 02:34 PM

No. The silica is a mineral analogous to glass. Its smell and thermal characteristics are like glass. No smell and a very high melting point.

Check to see if you don't have something else causing the smell.

08-19-2011, 01:19 PM	#622 (permalink)
370Z JT A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: United States Posts: 2,905 Drives: 370Z PW 7AT Rep Power: 378	Man I know how you feel drift. I was so embarrased to drive the Z with all the rattling. I even made an appointment with a shop to have them inspect the pipes. Drive 30 minutes on the highway and upon arriving to the shop, I couldn't reproduce the rattling. Lol I couldn't believe a rattling sound is part of the break in process either but I guess Motordyne knows their products. __________________ Click for My Journal Top Secret \| EVO-R \| Fujimura Auto \| Shine Auto \| Seibon \| MRWorks \| Swift \| SPC \| SSR \| UpRev \| Project Kics \| NST \| Titek \| Eibach \| Nismo \| Whiteline \| Quaife \| Invidia \| Fly1 \| CF Element \| Carbon Signal

08-19-2011, 01:49 PM	#625 (permalink)
azn370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Seattle Posts: 1,722 Drives: z34 - R1 Rep Power: 489	Can I get a price for the tp to 98275? __________________ 2010 k23 H&R sport springs / Spc rear camber arms / SSR SP1 / Berk cbe / Varis cf lip / Nismo S-Tune side skirts

08-19-2011, 02:14 PM	#629 (permalink)
370Z JT A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: United States Posts: 2,905 Drives: 370Z PW 7AT Rep Power: 378	Does the silica release a smell as well? I'm starting to smell something like burning plastic within the last few days. __________________ Click for My Journal Top Secret \| EVO-R \| Fujimura Auto \| Shine Auto \| Seibon \| MRWorks \| Swift \| SPC \| SSR \| UpRev \| Project Kics \| NST \| Titek \| Eibach \| Nismo \| Whiteline \| Quaife \| Invidia \| Fly1 \| CF Element \| Carbon Signal

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Review: Motordyne M370 Manifold w/ Comparisons	Staples	Intake/Exhaust	66	06-21-2014 01:35 PM
Motordyne test pipes?	Dan Z Man	Intake/Exhaust	37	12-15-2010 09:12 PM
Motordyne Intake Manifold on the way!!	GZ3	Intake/Exhaust	67	09-16-2010 12:49 AM
another FI 18" CF CBE review w/ test pipes	mrdino77	Intake/Exhaust	9	05-27-2010 12:13 PM

08-19-2011, 12:16 PM	#617 (permalink)
AlphaSnacks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Windermere, FL Posts: 1,618 Drives: '13 XKR-S, '10 370Z Rep Power: 18	Don't shift that low. We all told you to punch it and heat the ART Pipes really well. Drive it hard for a day or two, it goes away.

08-19-2011, 01:08 PM	#619 (permalink)
Motordyne Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 384 Drives: Z Rep Power: 16	Let it break in to 1500 miles. If it doesn't dissipate we will replace them for you.

08-19-2011, 01:17 PM	#620 (permalink)
AlphaSnacks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Windermere, FL Posts: 1,618 Drives: '13 XKR-S, '10 370Z Rep Power: 18	Also, make sure everything is tight. Did you make sure to cut the bolt? And what exhaust do you have? Did you make sure it isn't hitting the cross member? The rattle for most of us didn't exist past 3500RPM. It mostly happened between 1500-3000RPM somewhere.

08-19-2011, 01:25 PM	#624 (permalink)
37drift Base Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Syracuse, NY Posts: 11 Drives: Infiniti G37 Coupe Rep Power: 13	I was on a creeper at 6:30 am this morning under my car, checking for anything loose or banging. Bolts are torqued, clearance is no issue. It's a perfect, text book installation. I started the car up and got under it. Sound is from inside the chamber. Can't tell if it's one or both, because the one closest to my ear drowns the other out. My family owns a machine shop and we build race engines for a living. You have no idea how much of an earful I'm catching from my brother and our mechanics about this. I've been the laughing stock for 2 days now. "Ask him how much he paid for that rattle!"

08-19-2011, 02:34 PM	#630 (permalink)
Motordyne Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 384 Drives: Z Rep Power: 16	No. The silica is a mineral analogous to glass. Its smell and thermal characteristics are like glass. No smell and a very high melting point. Check to see if you don't have something else causing the smell.