Forced Induction motors that have died

jax4557

What was the WHP: NO DYNO
What wtrq: NO DYNO
How long did it run before it died: 4 Months
Was it ever 100% running right before it died: It seemed strong and fine with slight gremlins
What kit: BP v2 PT 6766
What PSI: 14 PSI
What was the cause if you know: Cyl 1 ringlands broke and dropped rings
What year was the car: 2014 370Z Sport
Tuner: SEb at Specialtyz
Software: Ecutek
Fuel: Flex ( E81 at time of failure )

The tune was complete and I was happy, I did notice that I would have issues starting after driving somewhere and it sitting for 30 minutes or so.. (hydrolock)? I also thought I was smelling E85 in the oil but I could not confirm this. I was doing a roll in Mexico against a gtr and although I won I noticed slight smoke. I pulled off to a gas station and could not find any smoke so I drove home and the next morning I started it and it was smoking profusely. A teardown revealed cyl 1 ringland and rings dropped but no denotation that was obvious on the piston.

shadow85

So to Jax4557 and ANMVQ, would the engine have been saved and not have blown up if you guys had forged pistons and rods?

Curious to know because I soon will be trying for around 500whp with a SC kit, and I may have a little bit of a budget left to add forged pistons and rods.

But I had normally left them out because I was told by several people including a FI rep that it isnt required for me as I am not going over 600whp.

But reading these peoples stories of blown motors is starting to worry me a lil.

jwick

Unless you are going A2A, then no they won't help. The problem with the Stillen kit is the ECU has no clue what IATs are so it doesn't know how to compensate. Having forged pistons won't help a bad design.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

ChaseZ

Tap manifold between the TB's

Specialty Z MAP Sensor Kit - 370Z/G37

jax4557

Dont the MAF sensors handle the temp readings or with the stillen kit those go away? My tuner had the temp on each bank and my upgraded MAP sensor readings?

ChaseZ

Where are your MAF located though?. Adding the SpecZ 3bar MAP sensor at the manifold gives much more accurate readings.

I'm making a custom charge pipe so I can move the MAF right before each TB, and they won't be measuring the same air then either. I'm also ditching the coolant lines to the TB's, no use heat soaking them more than they already are.

EliteXpress

I too started out with the Aeromotive 340 running a e70 blend and at 12psi the pump just could not provide enough fuel giving the z AFR cut while in boost. Had her upgraded to a Walbro 450 and she now runs Nice & Rich under wide open throttle at 12psi. I can now even run a higher blend of "e" since upgrading to the larger fuel pump.

With you running 14psi you definitely need to find a way to add more fuel to you're new build. You should hit up Charles from CJ Motorsports as he is working on a twin Walbro 450 pump setup.

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Boosted Performance Kit Built By JMS Racing 700whp. IG: @EliteXpress370z

shadow85

Well I am going Gamma kit, so it already has A2A or I may hold till RJM SC hits the market.

So ppls motors blowing with the Stillen kit is because of it's bad temp reading design?

jwick

Based on your responses I think you should do a lot more research about this platform before you decide it's right to go FI. There's mountains of good information about this platform here from the many of us that have walked this path. Don't rush in or you'll end up on the popped motor list.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

shadow85

I was under the impression gamma/Gtm made sturdy and great performing kits, wheather it be SC or TT. Am I missing something?

jwick

Every kit on the market has its own issues. You need to do the research and figure out what you are willing to live with.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

EliteXpress

Please don't take this in the wrong way. You're ringland resulted in my opinion to no proper dyno tuning & pushing such high PSI.

Un-top you were pushing a bigger than normal turbo to this kit, with out the proper fuel needed to the engines needs.

I have studied your YouTube videos, one can clearly see you sometimes running lean up top. Again in my opinion, but if you had the proper boost cut via ecutek you would have figured to upgrade to more fuel needed to run properly at that boost level.

Remember these engines were not built to with stand these power levels. The key ingredients is necessary for them to last.

Sorry to hear of you're lost. I too am pushing mine's & have saved in case I experienced the same results.

At the end of the day we all love to push the limits.

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Boosted Performance Kit Built By JMS Racing 700whp. IG: @EliteXpress370z

jax4557

I appreciate the input and I dont know what happened and you could be spot on but I will point a few things out you are wrong on so it can help use all possibly come to a better conclusion on these failures across the board.

I am running ecutek and do have AFR protection and overboost injector cut enabled and configured by seb ( one of the best in the business ).

I also have knock warning turned on and saw it a few times when getting into the throttle in 4 gear a little to soon in the rpm range ( Learning the car )

I am running a Aeromotive 340 pump with 1150cc injectors and a cjm se-1e fuel return system incorporating a flew fuel setup so I believe my fuel is fine.

Lastly the AFR you are seeing are with E85 and are going to be different than you typical 93 octane tune as well as I had a leak in the initial stages and my wideband was off a bit during off throttle after a pull

I am pinning my failure up to a casting defect or existing issue with the cylinder 1 ringland area and of course pushing the limits to 14 PSI for 4 months probably didn't help it. I have seen a few people pushing the BP kit to this level with no issue so I think it was a one off issue in my case. My replacement motor also is seeing closer STFT numbers on bank to bank so I think that tells me the rings were already leaking oil into the cylinder day one of tuning.

solidus

What was the WHP? 443 (mustang)
What wtrq? 373
How long did it run before it died? 2months (1 day after tune )
Was it ever 100% running right before it died? No
What kit? BP 6266 1.5ar ,
What PSI? 7.5
What was the cause if you know? Overboost due to vacuum leak. 23.7psi
What year was the car? 2015



I had installed the BP kit and it took awhile to work out heat related gremlins such as melted trans harness and melted filter. I "thought" it was over. Took it to dyno after everything was buttoned up hoping to tune for 12psi. It kept spiking at 16.5 on the dyno so the tuner turned off the ebc assuming I had a BC solenoid problem. finished the tune at wastegate using the 7.5 springs and yielded the above listed numbers. I was "Ok" with it since I knew I needed to work out some issues. The very next day I take it for a spin and it felt "Very good" better than it had since driving it only on the base map. On my way home I had an opportunity in the form of a wide open road. I WOT'd it and it felt beyond good all the way through 4th gear. At the top of fourth it felt like a 200 shot nitrous hit for about 3 second. Then there was silence and wind noise. No exhaust, no thumping or clanking, just silence and wind. Took me a bit to absorb it but I located a 7.5kmile engine from another 15' Nismo and started over. When the install was done, the oil pan from the old engine was filled with shattered metal. Looked like a silver prospector borrowed it. After nursing the car from the shop to my house I noted I was still getting spikes of 13-14psi on wastegate without EBC plumbing. Pulled all the vacuum to replace it and found a hole burned in the line to the passenger side wastegate. After replacement boost was stable with zero spikes over wastegate pressure. Put EBC plumbing back and all thats left is to fine tune the EBC.

Kris9884

Dang. Its a shame all that time and money spent replacing the motor was due to a simple leaky hose. I bet it felt great for those few seconds though

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