BP v2.0 Intercooler Piping

jax4557 · 12-06-2016, 10:20 PM

Hey all,

For various reasons I had my k member cradle out of the car and was cleaning my piping going under the passenger header, over the starter, and out the front towards the fenderwell/intercooler and noticed my piping has bad rubbing on the lower control arm and a small raised area on the steering rack near the knuckle. Does anyone have any ideas on positing this area of the piping better or a flexible product I can put in this section rather than the aluminum piping that comes with the kit? I have played with this several different ways and it seems so tight that even if I could lock it down perfectly so its not touching when I hit boost for the first time it will move and be in contact again...

Also would a Q60 motor mount bracket be the same as one that goes on a 370z VQ block or can that be the reason my motor is leaving to one side in my cradle? My donor motor had one mount that came with and I just added one off my old motor before dropping onto the existing mounts in cradle....

Thanks in advance,

jax4557 · 12-06-2016, 11:26 PM

The point on the front right below the knuckle is whats hitting the IC piping.

Boosted Performance · 12-07-2016, 11:15 AM

This is V 1.0 of the kit, where the pipes are routed on the passenger side?

jax4557 · 12-07-2016, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance

This is V 1.0 of the kit, where the pipes are routed on the passenger side?

No I have your V2 kit and my issue is the pipe that had a dent to clear the subframe bolt we turn around, the pipe that goes by the lower control arm and turns over the steering rack and near the started before it turns beside the block towards the front to the intercooler.

MY IC piping in these areas have been rubbing the last few months in a few spots and it seems so tight I wont be able to make this clear granted this area is tight...

How abrasive resistant are silicone couplers and can I slide an extra one or two over the IC pipe in those areas to protect the IC piping in my two bad contact areas or will they wear through fast and be back to aluminum IC on metal?

On a side note can you tell me the vband clamp size for the recirculation piping heading back into the exhaust? It looks to be 1" or so? And lastly vband on turbo exhaust outlet.. stopping leaks at this point is an issue do you have an ideas?

Thank you in advance sasha

jax4557 · 12-07-2016, 11:21 PM

Boosted Performance · 12-08-2016, 10:31 PM

Your inbox is full...just tried sending this...

Is it possible that the aluminium 90 degree pipe going in front of the starter is in backwards? The legs are not the same length, it looks backwards in the picture you posted...the longer side of the 90 deg pipe needs to point towards the front of the car.

Sounds like the IC piping needs some adjustment, which can be a bit of a pain. To help it along, it is not a bad idea to put a bit of lubricant (WD40) or something like that inside the couplers to help the pipe slide around, which makes the manipulating a whole lot easier.

I have had customers with different (350z) kits with issues, but they seem to get them resolved quite quickly with some moving around.

jax4557 · 12-08-2016, 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance

Your inbox is full...just tried sending this...

Is it possible that the aluminium 90 degree pipe going in front of the starter is in backwards? The legs are not the same length, it looks backwards in the picture you posted...the longer side of the 90 deg pipe needs to point towards the front of the car.

Sounds like the IC piping needs some adjustment, which can be a bit of a pain. To help it along, it is not a bad idea to put a bit of lubricant (WD40) or something like that inside the couplers to help the pipe slide around, which makes the manipulating a whole lot easier.

I have had customers with different (350z) kits with issues, but they seem to get them resolved quite quickly with some moving around.

I cleared out my messages, sorry about that. The picture above was before install several months back and it is on the car now.

I will check this weekend on the 90 and and play some more with the piping to adjust it. I have been using windex believe it or not as im told it evaporates and leaves nothing on the piping yet makes things very slippery..

Any ideas on the vband behind the turbo? It has never sealed all the way and I have had this kit on and off a few times for things. Any tricks?

Boosted Performance · 12-09-2016, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jax4557

I cleared out my messages, sorry about that. The picture above was before install several months back and it is on the car now.

I will check this weekend on the 90 and and play some more with the piping to adjust it. I have been using windex believe it or not as im told it evaporates and leaves nothing on the piping yet makes things very slippery..

Any ideas on the vband behind the turbo? It has never sealed all the way and I have had this kit on and off a few times for things. Any tricks?

Sounds good.

On the DP, high temp RTV is commonly used for this. Just let it set overnight.

TopgunZ · 12-09-2016, 09:51 AM

Hope thats the fix. If it isnt and you still need a band aid fix then a silicone coupler is not what you would want in there. Instead, use a T-bolt clamp. These can easily be placed anywhere along the pipe and it is stainless steel which will be a million times better for wearing through than silicone. Also, you can place an additional "plate" of steel band under the clamp for even more wearable thickness. Again, this is a band aid fix and should be avoided all together. Im sure Sasha will get this corrected for you.

I had been throwing out the windex trick a few times and it is a much better way to go over a lubricant based liquid since that will always be under your coupler and remain slippy.

jax4557 · 12-11-2016, 09:04 PM

I put it back together for now with some rubber material around the touching points. I couldn't get the piping together without something touching.. It is a PITA in that area... I will circle back around to it next time I have it on the lift.

The windex is an awesome tool for this and hell I may have read it on one of your post for all I know. I just remember it being in my head at the store..

BUT the new motor is in and kicking. Yes I need gas, I had to make it to the E85.

12-06-2016, 10:20 PM	#1 (permalink)
jax4557 Base Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Jacksonville Posts: 102 Drives: 2014 370z Sport M6 Rep Power: 10	BP v2.0 Intercooler Piping Hey all, For various reasons I had my k member cradle out of the car and was cleaning my piping going under the passenger header, over the starter, and out the front towards the fenderwell/intercooler and noticed my piping has bad rubbing on the lower control arm and a small raised area on the steering rack near the knuckle. Does anyone have any ideas on positing this area of the piping better or a flexible product I can put in this section rather than the aluminum piping that comes with the kit? I have played with this several different ways and it seems so tight that even if I could lock it down perfectly so its not touching when I hit boost for the first time it will move and be in contact again... Also would a Q60 motor mount bracket be the same as one that goes on a 370z VQ block or can that be the reason my motor is leaving to one side in my cradle? My donor motor had one mount that came with and I just added one off my old motor before dropping onto the existing mounts in cradle.... Thanks in advance,

12-07-2016, 11:15 AM	#3 (permalink)
Boosted Performance The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Edmonton, AB Posts: 1,629 Drives: Z's Rep Power: 3382	This is V 1.0 of the kit, where the pipes are routed on the passenger side? __________________ 750WHP starting @ $7,500 to the door FOR DETAILS VISIT: http://www.the370z.com/members/boosted-performance.html FB: https://www.facebook.com/Boosted-Per...6303179791462/ IG @boostedperformanceyeg

12-08-2016, 10:31 PM	#6 (permalink)
Boosted Performance The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Edmonton, AB Posts: 1,629 Drives: Z's Rep Power: 3382	Your inbox is full...just tried sending this... Is it possible that the aluminium 90 degree pipe going in front of the starter is in backwards? The legs are not the same length, it looks backwards in the picture you posted...the longer side of the 90 deg pipe needs to point towards the front of the car. Sounds like the IC piping needs some adjustment, which can be a bit of a pain. To help it along, it is not a bad idea to put a bit of lubricant (WD40) or something like that inside the couplers to help the pipe slide around, which makes the manipulating a whole lot easier. I have had customers with different (350z) kits with issues, but they seem to get them resolved quite quickly with some moving around. __________________ 750WHP starting @ $7,500 to the door FOR DETAILS VISIT: http://www.the370z.com/members/boosted-performance.html FB: https://www.facebook.com/Boosted-Per...6303179791462/ IG @boostedperformanceyeg

12-09-2016, 09:51 AM	#9 (permalink)
TopgunZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 2,651 Drives: 06 350Z , 09 370Z MT Rep Power: 6833	Hope thats the fix. If it isnt and you still need a band aid fix then a silicone coupler is not what you would want in there. Instead, use a T-bolt clamp. These can easily be placed anywhere along the pipe and it is stainless steel which will be a million times better for wearing through than silicone. Also, you can place an additional "plate" of steel band under the clamp for even more wearable thickness. Again, this is a band aid fix and should be avoided all together. Im sure Sasha will get this corrected for you. I had been throwing out the windex trick a few times and it is a much better way to go over a lubricant based liquid since that will always be under your coupler and remain slippy. __________________ ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Questions about Piping.	Minsu	Intake/Exhaust	6	07-03-2014 04:29 PM
[WTB] Injen intake piping (or other used CAI)	PharmDZ	Parts for sale (Private Classifieds)	3	01-02-2014 08:26 AM
[FOR SALE] OEM NISMO piping	34ST	Parts for sale (Private Classifieds)	0	10-01-2012 06:26 PM
straight-piping?	FueledByRamen	Intake/Exhaust	11	08-11-2010 06:33 PM
Exhaust Piping Size?	JonnyH	Intake/Exhaust	7	01-14-2009 01:57 PM

12-06-2016, 11:26 PM	#2 (permalink)
jax4557 Base Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Jacksonville Posts: 102 Drives: 2014 370z Sport M6 Rep Power: 10	The point on the front right below the knuckle is whats hitting the IC piping.

12-07-2016, 11:21 PM	#5 (permalink)
jax4557 Base Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Jacksonville Posts: 102 Drives: 2014 370z Sport M6 Rep Power: 10

12-11-2016, 09:04 PM	#10 (permalink)
jax4557 Base Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Jacksonville Posts: 102 Drives: 2014 370z Sport M6 Rep Power: 10	I put it back together for now with some rubber material around the touching points. I couldn't get the piping together without something touching.. It is a PITA in that area... I will circle back around to it next time I have it on the lift. The windex is an awesome tool for this and hell I may have read it on one of your post for all I know. I just remember it being in my head at the store.. BUT the new motor is in and kicking. Yes I need gas, I had to make it to the E85.