It was the 91 oct map I was looking at. The torque fell off a lot sooner versus the above which holds torque at an almost constant place in the upper band. Yeah I would love to see a direct comparison of the two kits. I'm sure they would be very similar and very different in a lot of ways. Here's the image I was looking at btw: http://fastintentions.com/images/370z/370zflyer_01.jpg

I just love the fact the BP kit is so DIY friendly...the FI kit looks like pulling the engine for the install would be easier than trying to do it with the engine in the engine bay

DIYing it is the main reason I'm in the boosted club. I was either going to live with NA or move onto another platform until I stumbled across Sasha's kit. Took me a lot of research and time spent on the lift until I was comfortable it would actually fit on a G37 but obviously I pulled the trigger, cuz here I am with the first BP G37.

DIYing a TT kit, although possible, would be a mountain of an undertaking. With the limited space I wouldn't feel completely comfortable I got everything installed properly without pulling the motor. Tony's kit is fantastic and I have nothing bad to say about it but I wasn't in the market for it because I didn't want to pay someone else to install it.

You are always going to have pro's and con's for any FI setup. Some things TT does better and some things Twin Scroll Single does better.

Yeah, that's why I'm doing a lot of comparison stuff now. I know I'll eventually boost the Z since I had a boosted car before and it's just too easy to make power. Fortunately I moved to a platform that doesn't rip apart your engine and transmission when you go over 350 whp! haha. Subarus are a nightmare...never again...

I have a small request for you sir. If you ever do any in car vids can you do one in 2nd gear from 10 mph to 6k rpm? I'm just curious to see if it's quite noticeable when the turbo spools or if it's very linear. My wrx drove me insane with the slingshot like acceleration through corners :/

Is there an installation pdf file available for this V 2.0 kit? I would like to read it a few times. Ok ok, I confess, I was only going to look at the pictures over and over again until the bottom corner wear out from excessive page flipping. Yes, such things are possible on pdf files if you do it enough times.

The install is going to be 95% the same. Just download the instructions from the V1 kit at the beginning of the the other thread

Found it!! That took me a little bit of searching.

Boosted Performance Instructions

Keep in mind that the dyno graph is essentially a tuners signature....so for comparison here is another...and please note that 10psi of boost is reached at 3,500rpm. So if the boost pressure is there, and the power torque is not (when comparing kits) then it is a timing/tuner thing:

http://rttuning.com/wp-content/uploa...son-G-Dyno.jpg

Hope that helps. Also, I do not have any "shop" dyno runs. All these are from customer and tuners from around North America.


As for the install, the V 2.0 is easier to install than the original V 1. The V 1.5 is the same when it comes to the install as the V 2.0.

^^^^ this

That's why I posted my graph because it was the same tuner and same goals, safe power for stock block.

That's the exact information I was looking for. The above dyno is exactly what I would want out of the kit.

Now it's time to start saving money for it! Haha

Thanks for the info sasha.

Any update from the powder coater?

Will be picking them up tomorrow morning. Not sure why it took this long...usually the turnaround time is much quicker than this.

Finally:


http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psfkowz7vj.jpg

Will be packing them up this weekend, so if you are looking to make the switch to the V 1.5, please let me know.

As mentioned before, the upgrade will include the following items:

New turbo to FMIC pipes
New turbo compressor cover
New air filter
New thermostatic sandwich plate
New OEM (Mobil) oil filter
One new oil line
One new 90 degree silicone coupler (others are re-used)
One turbine inlet gasket (the turbo has to be removed for the switch)

:drool:

Remind me what the main benefit to this is? Less oil lines, no oil filter relocation, easier installation and removal of the turbo. Anything else?

Intake pipes remain the same?

Yup, that sums it up. There is a slight increase in flow as well since this conversion eliminates the elbow on the compressor outlet.

Love IT!!!!

Bring on phase 1.5 of my build. FI exhaust is already sitting in my garage! So maybe its phase 1.75 :tup:

Sasha. We haven't discussed it but how much are the 3" intake pipes if I end up needing them?

Bahhhh! I can't afford to upgrade at the moment.

Gathering up the last of the deposit Couple more weeks Sasha.

Sounds good...I think you would be #6 as far as deposits go.

Check your PM sir :)

What! Only 6 have been spoken for. I thought they would fly off the shelf super fast! That's why I did what I did when you said it was time.

That's just how it goes. When I don't have anything in stock, it seems like everybody wants a kit. When I have them in stock, it is a different story.

There is a few others that are very close to sending deposits. I am not worried, these will sell themselves.

Sasha, how much would it cost for me to upgrade my v1 kit to the 1.5? I am also interested in the 3" Intake pipe as well.

Sasha I got your email a few days ago with no attachment ;)

So this won't fit the 7AT?

Nope.

I'm beginning to wonder if this wolf dude is Prestos alter ego :rofl2:

Just a reminder that I still have 4 V 1.5 kits available. The only difference between it and the V 2.0 is the compressor cover size on the turbo. With the V 1.5 you have a choice of two turbos, 700HP 6266 (base turbo) or the larger 935HP 6766.

Damn this is tempting!
Hey Sasha,how far can the torque be dialed down when pushing about 450 horse? I only ask because I would be Leary of running on stock internals and wouldn't be able to afford a rebuild.

I'd be shocked you could turn down the timing enough to get below 400-425wtq. Too little timing is just as bad as too much

From what I've seen of people on this forum so far I wouldn't be worried about running 450 WHP on stock internals. There was one guy who beats on his car and had 570 whp for around 20k miles, and then upped it to 671, and the only issue he had was the CSC (which people have had stock)

Set it at 8psi and don't worry, be happy. And you will be. If it lets go at that psi level then it wasn't because of too much power.

I would say use the 0.5bar spring in the WG and with a proper tune. Set it and be happy:tup:

Can a guy use RTV on the header flange to xpipe to ensure a good seal? I can't get the berk gaskets as they are on backorder and have been since the beginning of December. I was thinking of using my old ones with a little RTV or the ultra copper permatex.

Is there a problem with this?

I would just use RTV. Don't combine the two together.

Thanks for the info guys. :tiphat:

Should I crack the 2 triangle flanges that goes to the cat loose right now? The transmission is down and out of the way. I don't think I will every get as open of an angle to crack them loose as now. Me thinking yes, as I have already sprayed pb on them. Pic #10 on Shasha's original post on page 1. I need to stop by Harbor F and pick up a torque set and a darn 1/2 pneumatic impact gun. Stupid torques bolts are stuck.

YzGyz

Unless you are willing to drive around with an exhaust leak until you do the kit install, I wouldn't touch the cat flange bolts

-I would recommend getting a 1/2 inch breaker bar + cheater bar. You virtually have to break those bolts to remove them. My attempts with an impact were disappointing to say the least. The top one, especially, is a pain and needs a collection of extensions. I used a 4 ft. bar and had to hang on it.

I agree with jwick as well - exhaust leak is imminent if you break them off now and intend to drive the car.