Maybe crack them loose and retighten to the appropriate torque spec so it's easier to remove later? Of course, you're boned if you snap one off.

You know it's going to snap. I've busted off four demon bolts and I'm 4for4.

I PB blasted them and let them sit overnight. Then they came off the next day with just a driver and short cheater bar. None broke.

If it were me I'd take them off when the tranny was out of the way. Let the car sit like that until you complete the install. There are a hundred other things to do before you get the rest of the parts if that is your holdup.

Guess you need a backup rig for this though, which you should if you go FI on the Z anyway.

Leave it alone it is. I still need to dd my car. What a shame. a perfect chance at them gone.

Thanks

I got them off a Z with 50k+ miles with one turn. I was lucky. Same with my Z and it had 33k. PB blast them though at least before you try. Use a 1/2 and like others said a cheater pipe works wonders.

What are the status on the v2 kits?

This first round of V2kits are all sold. A few of us have already received the whole kit. I'm going to be installing my kit this week.

YzGyz

There will be more....

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psvyrebdal.jpg

I will also have 5 V 1.5 kits ready to ship in about two weeks.

I'm having a problem with the FMIC fitment. The brackets on the FMIC and on the car don't line up. Anyone else have this problem? Did I somehow mess up this simple step? I don't wan to drill holes at random then make it impossible to correctly hook up the hard pipes. I was planning to install everything and leave the FMIC last. Once everything is lined up, I mark then drill the FMIC.

Video below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABDc...ature=youtu.be

YzGyz

Damn that's way off...

I think that is an understatement. :p

I'm 99% sure I will install everything first then drill and mount the FMIC last. I just wanted to run it by everyone. The other thing is that the mounting brace is awfully close to the fins on the inter-cooler. I might have to cut that shorter as well.

YzGyz

That is a first. I had an issue with some other intercoolers because the mounting brackets were only 1" vs. 2.5" on these intercoolers. That was something different.

This is very different. The way your intercooler sits in the video is in the correct position. The middle of the intercooler is lined up with the centre rad support. The easiest way to get around this is to drill four new holes in the brackets.

The other option is for me to send you a new set of brackets, but I would need you to measure the hole offset.

Also, I would not bother cutting those mounting braces back. It won't make any difference.


I am always available on email as well for any issues you guys may come across during the install process. I reply rather quickly to you guys.

That you do, thank you for your help and great customer service.

No need to send a new bracket. I will just mount the FMIC last. I will line all the pipes up then use a pair of vise grips on the mounts, mark then drill. It's a easy fix given if everything lines up. Some Canadian gave me a drill bit that will work nicely. He he

YzGyz

yeah seriously, I would get replies like a minute after I sent my email lol. Customer service is above and beyond what most other companies would do

Mine was like that to. I mounted the FMIC to the passenger side, then just marked where I had to drill on the driver side. She fits good now!

Same problem here.

I have 4 V 1.5 TUNER kits that I am finishing up, and need gone.

These are going at a decent discount of: $5,900 to your door, but do not include an oil cooler kit. So it is a great solution for those that may have a supercharger and wish to upgrade to a turbo kit, or for those that may already have an oil cooler kit and are on a N/A tune.

I can turn these in to a complete turn key kit, which would include UpRev, 750cc fuel injectors, and fuel pump. That would add about $1,050 to the price. This still does not include an oil cooler.

This kit as is, can easily make 600whp on a built engine.

There are two choices for down pipe...Fast Intentions or OEM. For open dump tubes, there is another $150 discount.

Please let me know if you are interested, and I can take deposits. These would ship in about 4 weeks after the deposits have been received.

Why the **** do I have to be broke at the moment

BTW, the difference between V 1.0, 1.5 and 2.0 can be found in the first post of this thread.

Hey Sasha, I need you to email/message me please sir.:tiphat:

what is the " fast intention or oem down pipe"?

It is the downstream section of the exhaust system. It will bolt up to either the OEM exhaust, or any after market exhaust system that would bolt up to the OEM Y-pipe. I also have the option for a down pipe that will bolt up to the Fast Intensions dual 2.5" exhaust, as well as the Motordyne exhaust.

Just to note. If you are buying for a G only the OEM exhaust option works. The FI mod-pope connection is in a different location than on a G. I cannot speak for the Motordyne.

Oh, thanks for the input on that.

Any time. And I should probably expand on that. Any exhaust that uses the OEM flange location will work (i.e. I originally had a Stillen exhaust and it mated just fine)

I figured that's what it was, but then again, just to clarify :tup:

my downpipe would be oem and hopefully it matches up to the Ark exhaust fairly well. I already spoke to a welder and he's already excited to get this build started.

Hey guys, started installing my BP kit today and I have a few questions. First one is, how the hell do you get the oil pan separated from the engine? I was using any tool I could find to wedge in there and nothing. I'm baffled at how to get it off. I'm using the large cast area to pry against but it's chipping away at it and I don't want to ruin that! http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/...pspbkxgzml.jpg

Second, I installed the exa pump and clipped on the harness with the black and red wore attached only. Now, I'm left with two harnesses, both with several wires and one has the add a fuse attached to it. Confused on how to wire that or where to even install it because both my red and black wires are right next to the fuse box already ( haven't wired anything yet just ran those two wires over to the location)

http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/...psivhchnb3.jpg

Those are the two harnesses. Really stuck on what to do there. Any help is appreciated. The exhaust is off and some of the oil lines are installed so only a few more days of work and I should be good

Are you trying to pry it off w/ just one bolt removed?

edit: not trying to be a smartass about it.

The oil pan needs a good bit of prying to get off. Take all the bolts off. Then use a flat bar ( one that is shaped like an "L") and stick the shorter end between the pan and block. Give it a few good wings with the hammer till it works itself in. Use a second pry bar or big long screwdriver to work your way around loosening the pan. The pan will be warped a little in the pry area but you can beat it strait again with a flat surface and a socket or something.

As for the two wire harness, one is for the Exa, one is for the fuel pump.

I think I have pics somewhere in my build thread.

YzGyz

http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...zs-turn-9.html

Here you go.

YzGyz

The relay with the add a fuse is for the Exa pump and the other is for the factory fuel pump harness. There's a pretty crude Microsoft paint sketch that shows how to wire the fuel pump harness. If I recall properly you cut the pink wire in the factory fuel pump harness but I can't remember which end of the harness gets spliced to each side of the cut pink wire.

I agree with the others. Take all the pan bolts out completely before you start trying to pry it off. I stuck a flathead screw driver in the seam and hit it with a hammer a few times. Once I got it started I basically repeated the process with a second flathead until it was open enough for me to work my way around. You will have to reshape the pan a little once you get it off.

There's a lot of detail in my build thread if you need reference. Clink the link in my signature.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11...85a8211d93.jpg

Found it

From that pic it looks like the pan is still bolted to the block. If you tried to take the oil pan off like that you should not be installing the turbo kit. Stop now!!!

Sorry guys, confusing photo. I took all the bolts out before trying to pry. I just lightly put the bolts back in because I was calling it a night and didn't want to lose them. I appreciate the responses very much! Trust me, I'm not trying to do anything half assed, or wrong. I just didn't want damage that cast piece above the oil pan. I was using a flathead and a mallet to hit it in there and then pry it up. I could hear it creaking a bit with the rtv separating from the pan a bit, but still nothing :/
I'll get back to it later today hopefully. Working 14 hours days is killer

http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/...pscaxhuwtz.jpg

Praying that the oil feed port is facing the right way. Someone please tell me that's correct lol. If it is then I'm right on track. Very fun install minus a few headached parts that don't want to cooperate cough cough oil pan. Lol. Pretty close to buttoning everything up. A few more nights with 3-4 hours should do the trick. Thanks for the help guys. Oh and Sasha, everything is spot on fitting wise except for the IC bracket on the pass side. I'll have to re drill it a little to get it to fit properly.
I do have one question for you guys. My pipes are all wrapped and idk if that's the problem but I had to remove the heat shield from the pass side to get the turbo piping to fit. There was a stud protruding way to much and we pretty much had to remove it, and it's still very close to rubbing the floor board. Maybe a few MM's. Other than that all is good.

Boosted Performance V 2.0
 

That 90 on the oil feed must be a later addition to the kit design because I don't have it but either way it should be facing forward so you're good. As for that stud, it has to be removed. I cut it off with my dremel. I thought that was in the instructions but I could be wrong its been almost two years since I installed.

Awesome, yeah it doesn't say it in the instructions to remove the stud. I do have the newer v2 kit so I know some things have changed compared to the v1

Sooooo I was doing the WG, installed a red and green spring because I don't have a yellow in either box. Anyways I was blocking off the air ports with the "supplied" block offs and one of the WG only came with 1 port in the bag and the other one came with all 3. Kinda lame. I'm also not understanding the whole making sure the valve seat is on the underside of the gate. Do you just place it in there and then put the clamp over it? Because the springs are already installed and the seat is out of the gate