Boosted Performance round 2 list

09nismo498 · 04-13-2014, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

Where is it hitting? I don't recall mine is anywhere but I'll double check it Thursday when I get back at it.

It's hitting on a small piece of the transmission housing that sticks out. I thought about grinding it down, but it looks like it may be where a shift fork rod sits or something. I don't have a picture at the moment or I would show you. its right on the bottom of the transmission you can't miss it.

zguynate · 04-13-2014, 08:29 PM

Mine did that too. Once you get everything bolted up, the weight of everything brings it down. Not touching anymore.

09nismo498 · 04-13-2014, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonbreath

Mine did that too. Once you get everything bolted up, the weight of everything brings it down. Not touching anymore.

my kit is completely installed, and it didn't move at all. i tried everything, but it still rubs the trans. its pushing against the trans, so I'm hoping there is no rattle or anything...

TopgunZ · 04-13-2014, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 09nismo498

It's hitting on a small piece of the transmissiwayhousing that sticks out. I thought about grinding it down, but it looks like it may be where a shift fork rod sits or something. I don't have a picture at the moment or I would show you. its right on the bottom of the transmission you can't miss it.

Thats exactly where im against. I also havent fired it up yet but hope the same.

I tried my best to get a piece of rubber hose inbetween it but theres no way.

jwick · 04-13-2014, 10:50 PM

The flex coupler could very well loosen up and clearance everything once it heat cycles a few times

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Boosted Performance · 04-13-2014, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

Sasha is that crossover piping larger OD than the current design?

The intercooler pipe is 2.5" diameter.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

Finger? Mines up against it. And what did you guys do with the yellow wire off the scavage pump wiring?

The yellow wire is live when the car is off, so it should be left alone.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

Sasha got some good feedback both on the manual and what it takes to get it installed on a G37. I'm going to wait until the entire process is compelte and I will send you an email.

Thank you. I appreciate the time you have taken to let me know how the install went...I will have a look at your build thread as well shortly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 09nismo498

Mine is resting on the trans as well. I haven't started it yet, but I'm really hoping it doesn't rattle or cause another problem. If it does, I'm not really sure what to do, because theres no way to adjust it any lower, I already tried twice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 09nismo498

my kit is completely installed, and it didn't move at all. i tried everything, but it still rubs the trans. its pushing against the trans, so I'm hoping there is no rattle or anything...

This is odd, and I am surprised to hear it. I really do my best with the manifolds to make sure they all fit in the jig and are just like the first one I made. They are welded in 4 stages just so that this doesn't happen. I am starting to think that there is a slight discrepancy with the headers...I have had a Z on my lift for the past three days, and tried a couple of the manifolds that were built on the jigs just to make sure everything is good...and the clearance was great. There was at least a quarter of an inch clearance between the pipes and the transmission.

If you guys are having issues, I am always just a PM away, and would be more than happy to help. I can cover the shipping and do the adjustment on these manifolds if you guys wish...that is no problem at all. Just let me know. I would ship it back within two days.

jwick · 04-14-2014, 08:16 AM

Sasha , just for my own sanity that I got the oil lines routed properly. The top port (when installed) of the enginer block adapter is the return (pg. 28), correct?

Boosted Performance · 04-14-2014, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

Sasha , just for my own sanity that I got the oil lines routed properly. The top port (when installed) of the enginer block adapter is the return (pg. 28), correct?

That is correct.

jwick · 04-14-2014, 09:00 AM

Awesome, then I got it right. I figured it was that way but always like confirmation. The order doesn't really matter much without the thermostat adapter but since I have four lines instead of three just wanted to check.

Chuck33079 · 04-14-2014, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

Awesome, then I got it right. I figured it was that way but always like confirmation. The order doesn't really matter much without the thermostat adapter but since I have four lines instead of three just wanted to check.

If we had to un-zip tie all those oil lines again to reroute them I was going to throw a wrench at you.

jwick · 04-14-2014, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

If we had to un-zip tie all those oil lines again to reroute them I was going to throw a wrench at you.

Just make it an AN one. They aren't as heavy.

Chuck33079 · 04-14-2014, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

Just make it an AN one. They aren't as heavy.

You can't get a decent spiral on an aluminum wrench. It would be like trying to bean someone with a wiffle ball.

jwick · 04-14-2014, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

If we had to un-zip tie all those oil lines again to reroute them I was going to throw a wrench at you.

Not to mention, it wouldn't be that bad since it would just be swapping the two lines at the block adapter. I don't even think that would require cutting zip ties.

Chuck33079 · 04-14-2014, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

Not to mention, it wouldn't be that bad since it would just be swapping the two lines at the block adapter. I don't even think that would require cutting zip ties.

Yeah, those wouldn't be too bad. If we have to reroute the turbo oil lines I may eat a bullet.

jwick · 04-14-2014, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Yeah, those wouldn't be too bad. If we have to reroute the turbo oil lines I may eat a bullet.

I was about there when I realized the drain line to the pump was in the wrong position. Thank God I was able to squeeze it back thru and reroute under the charge pipe cuz no way it sliding between the turbo and the sub-frame.

04-13-2014, 08:29 PM	#1187 (permalink)
zguynate A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Strangeland Posts: 1,053 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 73	Mine did that too. Once you get everything bolted up, the weight of everything brings it down. Not touching anymore. __________________ 2009 370z touring w/sports package

04-13-2014, 10:50 PM	#1190 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465056	The flex coupler could very well loosen up and clearance everything once it heat cycles a few times Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

04-14-2014, 08:16 AM	#1192 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465056	Sasha , just for my own sanity that I got the oil lines routed properly. The top port (when installed) of the enginer block adapter is the return (pg. 28), correct? __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

04-14-2014, 09:00 AM	#1194 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465056	Awesome, then I got it right. I figured it was that way but always like confirmation. The order doesn't really matter much without the thermostat adapter but since I have four lines instead of three just wanted to check. __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

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