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Im also an Engineer and its true...we do double up on everything. Which is why I twin-charged my 350z..lol.. And with that I barely skimped by on having ridiculous amounts

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Old 03-03-2014, 02:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Im also an Engineer and its true...we do double up on everything. Which is why I twin-charged my 350z..lol.. And with that I barely skimped by on having ridiculous amounts of failures. When I uninstalled both kits there were heat issues all over the place. Was only a matter of time. I got lucky and had the wastegate break off the crossover pipe which led me to the burnt o2 sensor wire which led me to the uninstall of everything.
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Old 03-03-2014, 02:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Im also an Engineer and its true...we do double up on everything. Which is why I twin-charged my 350z..lol.. And with that I barely skimped by on having ridiculous amounts of failures. When I uninstalled both kits there were heat issues all over the place. Was only a matter of time. I got lucky and had the wastegate break off the crossover pipe which led me to the burnt o2 sensor wire which led me to the uninstall of everything.
You picking up a BP kit?
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Old 03-03-2014, 02:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Although that will offer security and could never be a "bad" thing. I don't think the BP kit has ever had an incident of any heat related melting of anything.

Can you verify this Sasha?

I have a turbo blanket from my Powerlab top mount that I was thinking of using and I will be wrapping my x-over pipe for sure and probably down pipe.
No issues should ever come up if the instructions are followed. There is plenty of room to keep everything plenty far enough from anything that will get hot.

Your PL turbo blanket will be waaaaaay too small for this turbine housing. You need a large T4 blanket.
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Old 03-03-2014, 05:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No issues should ever come up if the instructions are followed. There is plenty of room to keep everything plenty far enough from anything that will get hot.

Your PL turbo blanket will be waaaaaay too small for this turbine housing. You need a large T4 blanket.


If you're following the excellent instruction manual you will find the waste gate hoses (any of the kits additional hoses for that matter) don't go anywhere near the hot stuff. That is unless you are making an effort to test the temperature rating of the silicone hoses by wire tying them to the hot pipes. If that's the case... I say good luck to you.
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Old 03-03-2014, 03:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I would also recommend a boost gauge with peak warning.
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Old 03-03-2014, 03:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I would also recommend a boost gauge with peak warning.


I would go a couple steps further and add Oil Temp(us G guys didn't get one from the factory)/Oil Pressure/AFR
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Old 03-03-2014, 03:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yulp I have warnings on oil temp, pressure, and boost.
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Sasha sent you a pm are you availabke atn to speak to you over the phone?
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I finished wrapping everything this evening. I tried to test fit a waste gate to the piping and I could not get clamps far enough closed to slide the bolt through. I double checked and there is no interference from the wrap. I think (did not try) I could get them on maybe if I used a pair of channel locks but it seemed wrong to take that much effort.

Are they supposed to require that level of force to get the clamps around the flanges? It doesn't seem like it considering the instructions say I have to clock them prior to tightening the clamps. There is no way to rotate the WG once the flange is tight and you still can't get the bolt through.
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Are the v bands for the bov and gates the same size? Maybe you are doing that.... Just a thought.
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Are the v bands for the bov and gates the same size? Maybe you are doing that.... Just a thought.
I didn't get to the BOV as I've not messed with any IC piping. The WG comes with two different clamps in the box. One (I'll call the inlet) attaches to the pipe leading to the turbo, the second (outlet) attached to the recirulated WG piping. I tried both WGs which leads me to believe its not a manufacturer error since both are the same. It is so tight that there is no way to rotate it and I had to pry the clamp back apart with a pair of needle nose just to get the clamps off.

Maybe someone that has done this can chime in or Sasha will tomorrow.
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:00 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I finished wrapping everything this evening. I tried to test fit a waste gate to the piping and I could not get clamps far enough closed to slide the bolt through. I double checked and there is no interference from the wrap. I think (did not try) I could get them on maybe if I used a pair of channel locks but it seemed wrong to take that much effort.

Are they supposed to require that level of force to get the clamps around the flanges? It doesn't seem like it considering the instruction say I have to clock them prior to tightening the clamps. There is no way to rotate the WG once the flange is tight and you still can't get the bolt through.
I clamped that sucker together with a channel lock. LOL It was tight for me too. That's the way I like it.
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I clamped that sucker together with a channel lock. LOL It was tight for me too. That's the way I like it.
You must be my brotha from a anotha motha, cuz I like the sh!t tight too.

Thanks man. I was just kind of scared to need to apply that much force.
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:06 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You must be my brotha from a anotha motha, cuz I like the sh!t tight too.

Thanks man. I was just kind of scared to need to apply that much force.
No seriously though, just clamp it tight enough so you can get the screw in. Just make sure you align things up first then put the screw in.
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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That is a bit odd. It is possible that the machining of the flanges or clamps is a bit off, and they are tight for that reason. I have seen it a couple of times where there is bit of a burr on the outside edge of the flange, and it can cause a very tight fit of the clamp.
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