370z Forced Induction for Noobs...
 

For V1 & reference material for 350z motors & kits: http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ion-noobs.html

VQ37VHR:

With the upgrades of the VQ35HR motor, Nissan decided to take the VQ motor one step further. Introducing the VQ37VHR... a similar engine setup but with newer technology such as VVEL, beefier internals, and better engine components. The VHR can easily make 500whp on a stock motor; which is an improvement over the HR which estimated around 450whp. If your hopes where to install a turbo kit, and some other goodies and have a 450-500whp daily monster... the VHR is your platform of choice.

For the brave souls out there who want to TT or SC there VHR; GTM, Greddy, Fast Intentions, and Stillen have what you need.

Turbo 101:

So the life long question of "What's better Single or Twins". Simple answer... both. It all depends on what you’re looking to use the turbo for. Are you strictly daily driving? Do you autocross, time-attack, drag race? You have to think about what you want to use your car for.

One of the easiest ways to explain the difference between the two is...

Twins - Gives you good low-end power and great mid-range, but lacks in the top-end. This is ideal for auto-crossing and time-attack. Twins will give you better response from the dig, and exiting corners. You have really good response in the low-mid range rpm's.

Single - Lacks in the lower rpm range but is great in the mid-range and top-end. This is the "ideal" setup for drag racing where your rpm's are mainly in the mid to upper range. The term “turbo-lag” is the time it takes for the turbo to see boost. The bigger turbo you have the more lag you will get.

Singles are sometimes preferred for daily driving. For the fact that when you cruising at low-rpm's; your car is actually seeing vacuum rather then boost. This helps with the longevity of the motor. Others prefer twins for daily driving because you have more "useable" power when cruising around town. Though with Twins, your motor will see boost more often then a single.

1/4 Mile Times: Link
Finished Builds: Link
Factory Coolant Gauge Readings: Link

This is still a work in progress but should be done by the weekend hopefully, especially with a couple new kits just hitting the market.

Single Turbo Kits:

Boosted Performance: This individually made mid-mount kit utilizes a single precision T4 6266 CEA billet turbo, or an optional 6766, along with Tial blow off-valves and wastegates. Taking advantage of a large vertical intercooler measuring at 25"x9"x3.5" with a core capable of 1950cfm of flow. The Boosted Performance kit is capable of over 500whp paired with over 400 peak TQ. Also inclued in the kit is, 340lph fuel pump, 750cc Bosch injetors, oil cooler, aluminum piping, stainless T-bolt clamps.

For more detailed information: Link & Link

Twin Turbo Kits:

Greddy: The kit uses Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds, Greddy 20G turbochargers, Twin Inlet and Outlet Intercooler, External Wastegates, High capacity Oil Pan and a Greddy E-Manage EMS that piggybacks on the OEM ECU. Greddy claims it is good for 850+ horsepower. Of course, that would come with proper engine tuning and stronger internals (I.E. Pistons and Connecting Rods).

For more detailed information: Link or Link

Fast Intentions: A new contender in the forced induction world for the VQ motor. Fast Intentions has produced a top of the line kit pushing the limits and rethinking design. Using precision cast exhaust manifolds, garrett GT28RS oil & water cooled turbos, TiAl stainless steel V-band turbine housing (resulting in 33% weight reduction versus iron housing), and air to air intecooler. With optional upgrades such as, greddy oil pan, garrett GTX2867R turbos, and more.

For more detailed information: Link

AAM: This new kit introduced in the middle of 2014 has taken a unique approach to adding twin turbos to a 370z. With a partnership with BorgWarner, AAM has taken to using a new turbo by BorgWarner called Engineered For Racing (EFR). From precision tubular cast 304 stainless manifolds to watercooled turbos, this new entry into the Twin Turbo market for the 370z has given a new option to choose from for those looking for boost.

For more detailed informatoin: Link

Gamma Motors: This new kit developed by Gamma Motors has been designed to address some suggestions by many 370z owners. Such has being able to retain the stock crash bar, no drilling or tapping the cylinder head or oil pan while maintaing the level of quality and commitment Gamma Motors has shown before. This kit will uitilize water cooled Mitsubishi TD05-16G with a 7cm or 8cm housing and a TD06-20G with an 8CM housing for those wanting more power, and also includes a baffled oil pan.

Additional information is still arrive for this new kit, but for more detailed information: Link Original Release

Supercharger Kits:

Stillen: This kit takes advantage of a Vortech V03 series compressor with an upgraded cast aluminum intake manifold, and a air-to-water intercooler system. Currently the only kit offered on the market for the 370z with these options, and Stillen has also been able to achieve C.A.R.B. certification for all 50 States. Also included is 600cc fuel injectors, high output fuel pump, aluminium intake pipe, and an optional 3 year/36,000 warranty.

For more detailed information: Link

Gamma Motors: Taking note from the 350z era, Gamma Motors decided to use a Rotrex C38 supercharger, paired with an air to air intercooler measuring in at 2.5"x10"x24" which is rated at 700HP. Also included is a Walbro 255 fuel pump, Denso 600cc injector, and oil filter relocation kit. This kit also has optional upgrades for higher horsepower.

For more detailed information: Link Original Release


Gamma Motors Twin SC: Taking note from their single rotrex supercharger kit design, Gamma Motors ventured into the R&D of a twin rotrex supercharger. Using two C30 rotrex superchargers along with twin 13"x10"x3" bar and plate intercoolers, this kit is able to reach 560HP (crank).

For more detailed information: Link Original Release

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OUT OF BUSINESS:

Single Turbo Kits:

VSR: This single turbo by VSR comes in both a tuner & tune key kit option, and uses a precision turbo 6266, turbosmart BOV, front mount intercooler, and DW injectors & fuel pump. Capable of up to 600HP, this kid has potential to meet your forced induction needs.

For more detailed information: Link

Twin Turbo Kits:

GTM Garrett: This kit uses nothing but the highest quality of parts. Featuring Cast Ductile Iron Exhaust Manifolds And Turbine Housing, 3.5"x13"x24" Intercooler (Rated for 1000HP), Steering Coupler, Twin Garrett BB Water & Oil cooled Turbochargers w/ HKS Internal Wastegate Actuator's (Standard), and Dual Tial 50mm BOV's. Optional Tial External Wastegates are available They are releasing 4 different stages of this product. Stage 1 featuring Twin GT28RS Turbos w/ a .64 A/R (Rated for 500HP), Stage 2 featuring Twin GT28RS Turbos w/ a .86 A/R (Rated for 700HP), Stage 3 features Twin GT3071 Turbos w/ a .64 A/R (Rated for 900HP), and Stage 4 features Twin GT3071 Turbos w/ a .86 A/R (Rated for 1000HP).

For more detailed information: Link

GTM MHI: This new kit developed by GTM has been designed to address some suggestions by many 370z owners. Such has being able to retain the stock crash bar, no drilling or tapping the cylinder head or oil pan while maintaing the level of quality and commitment GTM has shown before. This kit will uitilize water cooled Mitsubishi TD05-16G with a 7cm or 8cm housing and a TD06-20G with an 8CM housing for those wanting more power, and also includes a baffled oil pan.

Additional information is still arrive for this new kit, but for more detailed information: Link

Supercharger Kits:

GTM: Taking note from the 350z era, GTM decided to use a Rotrex C38 supercharger, paired with an air to air intercooler measuring in at 2.5"x10"x24" which is rated at 700HP. Also included is a Walbro 255 fuel pump, Denso 600cc injector, and oil filter relocation kit. This kit is still currently in C.A.R.B. approval stages, but for those not needing that currently you can reach over 400whp & 350TQ with this kit. This kit also has optional upgrades for higher horsepower.

For more detailed information: Link


GTM Twin SC: Taking note from their single rotrex supercharger kit design, GTM ventured into the R&D of a twin rotrex supercharger. Using two C30 rotrex superchargers along with twin 13"x10"x3" bar and plate intercoolers, this kit is able to reach 560HP (crank).

For more detailed information: Link Link

Accessories/Supporting Mods:

Accessories and supporting mods are usually pretty important depending on the application. You can get carried away with accessories when comes to a forced inducted vehicle. These items include

- Gauges
- Trans/Oil Coolers
- Fuel Accessories
- Drivetrain Accessories
- Boost Controllers
- Methanol/Water Injection

Most of these items are not needed, but aid in the longevity of your vehicle.

Gauges: Probably the most basic of accessories when it comes to a forced induction vehicle. Wideband Gauges, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Water Pressure, EGT, Fuel Pressure are just a few of the things you can motor with gauges. The “basic” gauges, IMO, are Wideband (Air/Fuel Ratio) gauge, Oil Pressure, Water Temp. Monitoring you vehicles temperatures is vital to the longevity of the motor. Oil pressure is key to keeping your motor running properly. A/F is probably the most important. By monitoring your Air/Fuel ratio you can make sure your car is running at the optimum level. High engine temps can lead to costly repairs and serious damage… just read the forced induction section!

Coolers: Coolers covers a few different things, and they all deal with heat. Radiators, Thermostats, Fans, Shrouds, Oil Coolers, Transmission Coolers, Differential coolers all aid in fighting the never ending battle of heat. Keeping your engine temperatures down is vital to a strong and long lasting motor. For those of you who autocross and time-attack, keeping temperatures down is probably one of the most important things you can do. Radiators, Thermostats, and Radiator Caps are the most common accessories for cooling. Brands like GTM, CSF, and Mishimoto all make radiators that provide superior cooling then the stock one. When adding a radiator; upgrading your hoses is a good idea as well. A good set of Samco Hoses never hurt anyone! Thermostats and Radiator caps are used to control when the coolant starts working. Aftermarket thermostats are design to “open” at a lower operating temperature then stock, allowing your motor to run cooler.

Oil Coolers, Power Steering Coolers, Transmission Coolers, and Differential Coolers are designed to cool the fluids that keep everything running. These are usually geared more towards those who race there cars frequently, but can be used in everyday applications. Again, heat causes these fluids to “burn” in harsh applications, and these coolers help keep everything cool. Companies like Greddy, Z1, GTM, and Stillen make these products for the 370Z, but a lot of universal application work well to!


Fuel Accessories: Fuel Accessories cover injectors, Fuel Rail’s, Fuel Pump’s, Multi-Pump Assemblies, and Fuel Pressure Regulators. Upgrading your fuel injectors will depend on how much power you want to make. Fuel injectors will vary in size; 380cc, 440cc, 600cc, 880cc, 1000cc injectors are available for the VQ37VHR motor. Injector size will depend on application. Larger fuel rails are sometimes needed when trying to push that extra fuel to larger injectors. They will usually have larger fittings on the end to run larger fuel lines. Fuel Pump’s and Multi-Pump assemblies are a must when pushing “Big” horsepower. A simple Walbro 255lph in-tank fuel pump upgrade will help get the fuel to the engine when trying to make up to 500whp, but when you depend MORE POWER a multi-pump assembly as a good investment. Companies like CJM make an in-take fuel-pump assembly that will hold (2) fuel pumps and are usually good to over 1000+whp. Fuel pressure regulators are another tool to dial in your fuel setup. Most regulators will have a psi gauge on it telling you how much fuel pressure you have.

Sometimes you will here the term “Return Style Fuel System”. Return style fuel systems will send the fuel that goes to the fuel rail back to the fuel tank. This will allow you to run more fuel to the motor without flooding it. Return style fuel setups are a must for big HP!

Drivetrain Accessories: Drivetrain accessories include Clutch, Flywheel, Valve body Upgrade’s, Clutch packs, and differentials. Putting power to the ground is just as important as being able to make the power. I mean if you’re making 550whp and you can put it to the pavement; then what’s the point! When it comes to manual transmissions, an upgraded clutch is usually in your near future after going F/I. The stock clutch is good to roughly 400-450hp, and how you drive will depend on that! Full-Face clutch disks, puck clutches, twin-disk, triple disk; there are various products you can order depending on your application. A lightened flywheel is another accessory to add when upgrading your clutch. A lighten flywheel usually gives you better acceleration, and allows you to put more power to the wheels. Less rotational mass = more power to the ground! For you automatic guys, upgrading your valve body and clutch packs to hold more power is important when you’re adding power. Various offer great alternatives to hold 600+whp.

Upgrading your differential is also a good thing to do when trying to put power to the ground. Some models of the 350Z come with an LSD (Limited Slip Differential) from the factory. Companies like Kaaz, Tomei, Carbonetics, Cusco all make either 1.5 way or 2.0 way LSD’s for the 350Z/G35. A 1.5 way diff means it’s fully locked during acceleration but not locked during deceleration. A 2 way LSD is fully locked all the time. No LSD = One Wheel Tire Fire!


Electronics: Electronic accessories included Boost Controllers, Turbo Timers, and Data Loggers. Boost Controllers are probably the first electronic accessory people invest in. Boost controllers allow you to change the amount of boost your motor will run from inside your vehicle. Usually with the turn of a knob or the push of a button a you instantly have more power. Now…

***IF YOU ARE TRULY NEW TO FORCED INDUCTION DO NOT BUY A BOOST CONTROLLER!!!***

I say this as a friend. Boost is addicting. It’s like crack; you can’t get enough! When you drive a boosted vehicle for the first time, you will want more power, and you WILL turn up the boost. If not done properly this can leave to blown motors and extreme carnage!

Data loggers are a neat feature to have if you are into any kind of racing. They will keep track of certain parameters of the vehicle for a period of time. When you’re done you can go back and analyze the data to see what your car is doing at certain point in time. RPM, A/F Ratio, Oil Temp, Fuel Pressure, Shift Points, Knock, etc can all be logged by time or rpm.

Methanol/Water Injection: Methanol injection is a great investment when going F/I. Methanol itself is NOT a power adder, but by doing methanol injection you can increase horsepower and keep your engine temps down. Methanol, when mixed with fuel, increases the octane level of the fuel from your tank. Kind of like running an octane booster. When you try to burn a higher octane you can make more power safer and more reliably, and you get a more complete burn too. Methanol also cools the air running into the engine; lowering the engine temps, and helping to alleviate detonation. Basically, when you run methanol, you can turn the boost up more to make more power safer. Injection systems can be controlled by a number of aftermarket EMS systems or have there own independent controllers. So you can set it to come on when you see certain boost level to help make more power safer.

Stillen Optional Upgrades:
-Topgunz Air to Air upgrade kit - Link
-Si Impeller: Requires sending unit back to Vortech for the change, but increases CFM by 10-15%
-Frozenboost: This is an air to water heat exchanger which is a front mount to reduce water temperatures (Link)
-Additional options can be located here: Link

Very informative. Thank you sir :tiphat:

Let me know if I am missing some info, minus what has not been released yet, want me to add more, or find errors.

Very well done!

wow. This helps out. Thank you for making this!

No joke. I didn't know it was that easy to handle a 400whp car. Now I'm close to 450 whp, and it is still too easy. I don't mind stopping around 500 whp though. Even as a daily driver my engine doesn't see much boost unless I hold the throttle around 50% past 2.5k RPM.

Great write up

How about spark plugs? ...
Which ones do you have in your forced induction cars?

My tech dropped in the GT-R OEM ones. Over 30k miles no problems. Whenever I get it tuned for more power I might look at getting the HKS spark plugs.

At least a step colder than ones they currently run stock in our cars. Look for level 8 or 9 iridium plugs.

On a side note did this thread reset? I thought it had a lot more to it.....:confused:

Looks the same, there are 4 other stickies with info:
http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...omponents.html
http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ed-builds.html
http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...370z-info.html
http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ion-noobs.html

Great info. Thanks for the write up

how necessary is to change the LSD when going F.I ?

Great write up, Keep up the good work !!!

Great thread you have been raped I mean repped! :tup::driving:

really thanks cuz im really a noob btw im gonna buy a single turbo because i only do daily driving and sometimes drift competetions ( and by sometimes i mean occasionaly)

going to second a question that was asked and not answered. I took note that the fast intentions car put in the OS GENKI LSD which im pretty sure is 10X better than that garbage nissan tossed in stock. Ive even had friends tell me as im doing a sprint burnout before a drag "since the Z wont sit and spin LUL" one tire starts to smoke before the other. Clear indication to anyone whos not an idiot that off the line your getting all your initial traction from ONE TIRE before the fluid in the viscus rear can spin the other side. its the laziest cheapest way to make a LSD in human history and only has one advantage, as long as you dont overheat them they pretty much last forever. So i would say, LSD is a HUGE factor in going FI only if your going from a dig. making a drag car? get a 1.5 or a 2 locking LSD. doing ANYTHING ELSE? dont bother, because after both wheels are spinning at relitivly the same speed aka not from a dead stop, the car does a pretty decent job at putting power down to both of them. so from a roll there would be no difference between a locking, and a viscus on an FI car. Also, look into the dynamics of how turning affects a car, one wheel spins faster than the other from inside to the outside of the car. Having a locking rear isnt always a good thing. Thats why they are used in drift cars.

This is an awesome write up and very informative...Here's my dilemma...I saw a couple of the posts above that FI CAN be used on a DD. While I love my new Z, I miss the power that I had previously with my twin turbo 996. First there's the whole warranty issue and praying nothing major goes wrong..."maybe it won't if I don't go to crazy with the build" How long with this motor live as a daily driver? How many folks pulled the trigger on a TT kit for their new daily driven Z?

Ok..another Noob question...This IS the "FI for Noobs" thread after all :hello:
Can someone explain the differences b/t internal and external wastegates and why one is better or worse then the other? And BOV? I know what it stands for, but don't know what it's for :-)

I need one of the yellow "Turbos for Dumbies" books :rofl2:

Luv driving Turbo cars, now I want to know all about them!

For a really good book on the subject, pick up Corky Bell's "Maximum Boost".

Got the book today. Thx for the suggestion :-)

Wasn't sure where to post this, but I have a '09 6mt, im planning on going TT hopefully by this time next year. My car has been a daily driver since I got it and I have about 55K on the odometer. My question is, is there a certain point mileage wise where I shouldn't boost my car? I'll be getting a DD soon to help keep the milage off the Z but started thinking about this. My other thought was should I just sell my current Z and get a lower mileage one once I have my DD. I just don't want to start buying all the supporting mods and then find out its not worth it.

Get a compression test and an oil analysis. If all the numbers come back clean, go for it. There's no magic number where it's got too many miles to mod.

Cool thanks chuck

Thank you so much for the information I am thinking about inducing my 2014. This was a great place to start. I am still pondering supercharging or single turbo.

Great write up. I live in a place where F I is a gamble at time of registration renewal. So im looking for the smallest SC in terms of physical size. My goal is to reach 500 whp for a DD. I will occasionally track the car but mainly its a dd. I appreciate any input


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Get Even...

Well, this is an easy answer. The smallest is the GTM Stage 1.5 that will make your power goals.

It does look small. Is there a known safe psi, given the stock engine compression ratio of 9.0:1? I think.


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Get Even...

11:1

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ed-builds.html
Take a look at a lot of the finished builds, many guys well into the 500 with the 1.5 GTM kit and very safe. I am not running that much power, but I have the stage 1 SC from GTM with over 50k miles on the kit (71k miles total car) and around 400whp.

Wow thats great you have that many FI miles. Any problems so far?

Nope, just have a solid tune, good install, and keep up with maintenance.
The VQ37VHR is a very solid motor for boost it seems like, which is very good, you just have to monitor it for any odd occurrences.

Glad to hear it since we are right around the same HP!

I posted this in another thread but it should be here too. An explanation of why headers and superchargers don't agree with each other. In a naturally aspirated engine with stock exhaust, the valve overlap on the engine allows the exhaust volume moving out of the head to scavenge the cylinder better allowing a greater intake volume to be pulled into the cylinder, it is timed up so that the valve closes before the intake charge begins to leave the exhaust valve. When you put headers on an NA car you improve the scavenging of the exhaust improving the intake charge to the point that just a little intake volume goes into the exhaust before the valve closes but the cylinder is filled with more intake charge regardless so it makes more power. On a supercharged car the intake charge is pressurized so that once the exhaust has vented enough that the cylinder pressure is equal to the intake pressure intake charge begins to flood out the exhaust valve long before it is closed, with a restrictor like a factory cat, or running a smaller exhaust diameter(2-2.5") with test pipes you allow manifold pressure to rise right at the critical point where the intake charge would over pressure the cylinder and flood out the open exhaust valve so the manifold back pressure holds the charge in.

This has been true for long before the 370z even came out, every supercharger kit manufacturer will warn about headers causing a loss in boost pressure, the fact is with a supercharger and the locked in cam timing the Z will make more power per cfm pumped into the engine with a restrictive exhaust. headers plus cam timing the way it is the engine wastes a large percentage of intake charge, so the header manufacturer tells you to get a bigger blower so that even though 10% of the intake charge is flying out the exhaust you will get your power back by shoving more in. The supercharger manufacturer tells you to put a more restrictive exhaust on the car so you waste less and get more pressure and power for the amount you spin the charger. In the end the both do the same thing you just have to pick whether you want headers and a more wasteful setup or a smaller setup that's more efficient.

Now if you can change the valve timing, grab your self some headers and turn the overlap down and enjoy the best of both worlds. Like I said none of this is new it's neither companies fault it's just the way it is, thats why back in the 60's a thing called a blower cam was invented.

Exactly why I was scared at first with my PPE's. (I think) My exhaust setup helps keep some needed back pressure. I still have a cat and the Tanabe is 2 3/4 at the Y.

so when are you going to pulley that thing down and shoot for 6XX haha

When I have the balls and money to build the motor ;) It has a 92mm's and there are 84mm's available. That'd be an extra 100whp I'd imagine. I accept donations for any that are curious :P

I think they can down to a 72 if you really want to push it ;)