When is the Fuel Return system required for a twin turbo build. Is it really necessary or does it depend of the injector size and pump size you're using? Or whp you're going for? Just trying to see if it is necessary cause it's a significant cost for system and install labor

Around 500 whp you will need to upgrade to a fuel return system .....factory regulator will only provide 52lbs of pressure ....regardless of fuel pump ...larger injectors will create a pressure drop as boost begins ...so once you run out of fuel pressure nothing you can do if you begin to run lean ....I just installed my return fuel kit over the same issue easy install did it in a few hours.

This is not completely true.

I'm running more than 500whp without a return system. I still have a ton of fuel pressure even WOT at 12.5lbs of boost. I talked to Phunk directly and he said it was not necessary considering my system is running with enough fuel pressure even at maximum boost to be fine. Considering I was looking to buy the system from him, I trust his judgement if he tells me I don't need to buy it.

I have made some adjustments today.

-VSR single turbo has been moved to out of business
-Gamma Motors TT/SC/Twin SC has been added
-Original GTM links and details still provided for historical purposes in out of business
-Added Topgunz Stillen Air to Air upgrade kit

It's hard to tell by pics to get details, but by looking the AAM and most TT setups, the kits eliminate the catalytic converters correct? Is there any kits that the down pipe connects to factory position CAT's? I run straight pipes but need to change out every 2 years for E-check.

Hmm

The old GTM kit came with turbo down pipes that mated directly to the factory cats. I assume the current Gamma kit does the same.

Yep, I can confirm that it does.

I will be going boosted soon.

I understand a good choice of gauges will be;

A/F, and oil pressure and AT oil temp.

I will keep the factory oil temp in its place.

Can someone link me to nice gauges that will fit the factory pods for above gauges? Cheers.

I want to make sure you know about the problems with automatic transmissions...ours can't handle over 400 ft lb of torque. So if you are boosting, look into the bulletproof transmission.

Yes thnx i know this. I am looking a few AT upgrade mods.

You can't replace the other gauges and keep the oil temp. That whole cluster of pods is a unit. You either take them all out or leave them all.

And if you take them out, you seem to lose some Ecutek functionality since it uses the oil temp gauge to show various things.

Forgot about that. Good catch.

Ahh crap!!

And Carbomsignal have discontinued the gauge screen for Factory Nav screen. :(

What do I do?

Remove the 3 gauge OEM unit and replace them with Oil temp, oil pressure, and A/F. And then get a A/T temp somewhere else.?

What sort of things does it show on the oil temp gauge?

The oil temp gauge is used to set the percent or the amount traction control is that will be used.

Correct me if im wrong, but the end user should be able to use the features like, traction control and timing adjustment even thought the gauge has been replaced. the gauge is used as a display reference, the tuner should still be able to make adjustment to the ecu without this gauge.. no?

There's a guy selling one right on either on the forum or Facebook ill try to get his info and send it to u. He wants 1250$

could someone guide me to the correct page. i have been on this forum for a while but this is really the first time ive used it. i have a stillen SC installed for about 3 years now and the car has never ran right since. Right now im tuning with Seb at SpecialtyZ, and although he dont see anything on his end (remote tuning) and has smoothed out my tune thus far, i am still getting these mild stutters at certain rpms. Lower Range. was pretty hard at around 2500 but like i said he got it smoothed out. any ideas what it could be? i have changed out the passenger side fuel damper because the original had a slight bend/dent. Thought that could be the issue, but nope. any ideas please help or guide me to the right page. thanks

Want to get my Z up to about 550+whp. Got my Z for relatively cheap w low miles but the downside is automatic. Plan on doing a tranny swap this coming summer. Would like to know where to start to get to the 550 whp most efficiently. Was considering a 60trim turbo +15psi. Have read a bit just building the bottom end alone will give you good results with running a proportional turbo to it.

If you have access to E85, you can go with the stock block. The auto-manual swap will likely be far more of a problem than the power goal.

If you are going to go single, look at boosted performance... A twin scroll is a nice way to get that full powerband out of a single.

Im planning on 550whp....
Fuel system will consist of: walbro 450 fuel pump, CJM return kit w rails, idx1050 injectors, hks plugs step cooler. Ill revisit pump voltage if it becomes a factor. ((running both e85 and 91 pump gas maps))

Oil system: 2 setrab 32 row coolers (using a stillen front facia (nose) ) with a thermostat to elimiinate one when cold. and custom sized AN-10 hoses and fittings. Pan spacer of course threaded for returns and temp gauge... Do i need to sump.. ill have to look at that before i close up the pan. i might contact nasa-specZ for if its going to be needed.

The turbo kit itself is aam featuring the BW 6758 EFR turbos with embedded wastegates and recirc . (might consider external if logged data on the track shows problems on constant gear transitions) Im getting 3" aam exhaust to go w it.

Other considerations: ill prob get the fly1 vented hood to eliminate some heat soak and upgraded rad for the power steering and possibly 1 for the trans..... I will get the housings and pipes ceramic coated to keep a bit of heat transfer down. Still deciding if i need speed sensors w gauge... BW doesnt seem to think so, since this model turbo prob wont peak @ my power goals with a twin setup, even at altitude.

Gauge-wise: i swapped my 3 stooges for BF Defi gauges already (Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Coolant Temp <block to Rad reading> I also have a single pillar with an inovate ECB1 ( most minimal approach i could find since i prefer a more oem look)

Misc: suspension will come later but im planning on going SPLparts and Koni/swift ...

Probably need to update the first page to add some'ore turbo kits, and supercharger.

Single: Soho Motorsports, Gonzevo Motorsports, Switchback Racing, VPF Racing, etc...
Twin: Boosted Performance
Rear-Mount: RZG Motorsports, Limp Mode Tuning
Supercharger: TopGun (Rotrex C38R)

Remove: Gamma

I can make a note to move some to the out of business section, TopGun and BP I can find the info on the forum but some of the others I will need someone to source details, any announcement articles, kit details, etc.

Hello fellow Z builders, green horn here looking for advice, what's the best mid mount tubro kit on todays market? I've seen admin tuning have a set up but I deal with Eugene tarkov and he's a twin build kind of guy.
Specs on my current 2010 370 nizmo :

Stillen crank & pully
Jimmy wolf technology cams + new timing chain
Wide bandwidth guage + oil pressure + water temp (still in box) to be sold
Fast 500 fuel system + 300 dw fuel pump
Long tube headers + wrapped + clamped
3 inch long tube z1 intakes
Mishimoto oil cooler
Ported intake plenum
Aluminum rad
Injen exhaust
Twin disc clutch
GTR 2010 Spark plugs x12 (in box)
Poly urathane Trans mount + motor mounts
Solid aluminum Diff bushing + aluminum collars for sub frame + Diff brace
2.8 L - GL4-75w90 transmission fluid
1.5 quartz - GL5-75w90 Diff fluid
One way check valve
1000 hp rear axles