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After 16 tunes from your "tuning department" and the car wouldn't idle and run properly.
This going on for a 4 month period. After your tuning department said its an install error, I gave up on you guys. After a local tune, the car drove prefect and idled perfect, I think I have the right to be a bit facetious, don't you? Maybe things have change since then, if so, great! |
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I know things with our tunes were not good for a while and I won't deny that, but we have been committed to fixing it and I'm glad you were able to get your car working well. |
So is the general consensus from members with the kit that the stock non-upgraded kit with a custom tune will run fine, be reliable and make about 410whp/300wtrq? I remember some people had issues idling issues which I believe was attributed to air turbulence or something by the intake? Has that been resolved? Anything else i should be concerned about? Will the stock kit be cool enough int he summer here in Socal (90s and 100s)?
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If I was as close as you are I would do what Mark suggested. You can have it CARB and a custom tune for the car. The kit isn't the highest HP out there but I love mine because the power is so lineal.
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you WILL need to upgrade your clutch at some point, factor this in, standard clutch will last a while, I've done about 10,000k's on it with the stillen kit after 50,000 stock k's. (37,500 miles total). The air turbulance issues were from people not installing a bracket which is supplied with the kit, so nothing wrong with the kit. This bracket is only required when being installed with the standard stillen heat exchanger. I'm running the frozenboost larger heat exchanger and haven't installed the bracket as there wasn't enough room, but the heat exchanger covers over where the bracket goes anyway. So no troubles there. |
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I haven't run the numbers in a while, but I think the Stillen Kit is spinning the Head Unit around 48,000 RPMs. It is rated to spin around 52,000 RPMs, and people actually spin them as fast as 60,000 RPMs on the 350Z. Then if that is not enough, add the SI impeller/volute for $365 and add another 10-15% CFM. I know all of these options are too much for a stock motor/trans, but I want to see what others think about this. I can't comprehend taking LTH off of a supercharged car. Make up the loss with more air. What do you think Stillen? Is there a piece to this puzzle I'm missing? |
One of the reasons for losing the LTHs is I would like the var to be quieter. As for VVEL, the car has been around for a long time now and it still hasn't been unlocked and I haven't heard about anyone seriously working on it for a while so I am not expecting that to happen anytime soon if at all. As for dialing up boost, people have had issues with this kit running too much boost on the stock motor.
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So I was thinking, if the stock cats and headers help create boost with back pressure, would having extra HFCs (since they're already welded into the lead pipes and would cost some extra money to replace) generate more boost and power since there will be 2 sets of cats? I have no problem with getting new lead pipes and replacing them, I was just curious about this though.
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I currently have HFCs welded into my lead pipes so I would need new lead pipes if I go back to factory cats which is a little extra cost. It' snmot a biug deal, but if it would actually make more power to leave them on and have double cats then I might leave them there.
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The only issue with HFC's is their ability to tolerate heat. You run the risk of them melting/blowing out. Obviously that would be bad.
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Updates! 395 hp and 293 tq on a Dyno Dynamics. The googles (and tuner) said they read pretty low compared to dynojets. So I had 323 hp on the baseline pull with the stillen tune. It was running at an afr of 9:1 WOT..... Thanks a bunch stillen, that is some horse s***. |
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Turbo is the way to go:tup: |
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