home-made boost gauge
 

On my search for a low yet accurate boost gauge suited to the Stillen SC kit, which didn't get far, I got the idea of actually making one instead.
Most Gauge go at least to 25 or 30 psi. What we want is no more than 10 psi. And the accuracies of mechanical and electronic gauge are beyond scrutiny. We can but hope that 8psi doesn't actually mean 7 or 9psi.

So I was thinking of getting a suitable BOSCH MAP sensor, they are highly accurate (OEM parts) and very fast response time and have a very linear output across their range. All we gotta do is display that output as eg. LED bar or digits. It just needs a little voltage conversion to express that output voltage in numbers representing psi. Electronics wise this is very simple. The display possibilities would be endless too.
Saw this inspiration for a BMW:
http://cdn3.volusion.com/54u7z.db265...5i-Gauge-2.jpg
The challenge is finding a cost effective BOSCH sensor with calibration curve available. I looked at this cheap fella #0 261 230 191 (used in supercharged Mercedes and others) with a pressure range of 0.15-2.6 bar (up to 23psi boost) but no datasheet.
Whereas the #0 281 002 119 (up to 22psi) has a datasheet saying response time is smaller that 10ms and accuracy is ±1.5 kPa, that is ±0.2psi guaranteed accuracy! But this particular part is pricey.
I keep searching, maybe I get lucky :stirthepot:

The Stillen SC kit seems like an addition I'd love to install on my Z. For those of you that have this Stillen SC kit, what would you advise I'd do to my "stock" engine along with this upgrade.

Thanks!

The Stillen SC kit is specifically designed to bolt onto a stock 370Z/G37.
But recommended add-ons are a 2.5" catback and an external engine oil cooler.
A boost gauge and A/F wideband gauge are optional additions, too.
You don't need to make any other preparations.
Stillen advises against headers or downpipe/cat upgrades.
I am gonna get my SC kit early next year, that's the plan anyway :excited:

A larger heat exchanger is always helpful. I'd put an upgraded radiator on any boosted Z. And you really need a custom tune. The canned one leaves a lot to be desired.

I'm about 3hrs from Z1 MotorSports & was planning to have them do the install & tune. I have the F.I. TDX Catback Exhaust. Thanks for ALL the input!

I thought I was the only one! Wow! I almost had it happen twice. The second time I noticed when I went to dyno my car. It has a steel braided line that is super strong now.

Switch to coolant days back and its gotten worse
I drove to the track and before I left pit lane the car thru a service engine light
I put on a scanner and it said lean bank 1and 2
We cleared the code and I tried going for session 2 and 2 laps in the light came on again and car started to backfire and no power
We cleared the code again and I just drove it home
Cars idle is erratic still and while driving now sometimes surges ,what sucks is i told you guys about it and I feel like I wasted time and money today for nothing
I'm seriously thinking of putting the car back to stock
You guys kept all my old stuff injectors, pump ,etc.. So it shouldn't be a problem

Like Chuck said the larger heat exchanger( Frozen Boost ) is a must IMO, and DO NOT to mod the kit for more power, and the "new" one is replaced the crappy stock fuel line with a breaded metal one.
If you mod it to make more power( You should make 410-415WHP) then be prepared to buy a motor, Seems like any of us that chase more power with this kit fail. I chase 500whp got 457 and BOOM but with the info on the feed line from Chris I think??? I know why mine popped, and might be why the others have went to , Guys are popping CYL2 or 3( I did 3)

Here is a log report from codes

Vehicle Manufacturer: Nissan
Vehicle Calibration ID: 11A36C
V3EV0A
Current Fault Log
------------------
P0174: System too Lean (Bank 2)
Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0106: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0171: System too Lean (Bank 1)
Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged


And the second time

Vehicle Manufacturer: Nissan
Vehicle Calibration ID: 11A36C
V3EV0A
Current Fault Log
------------------
P0106: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
Pending Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no pending faults
Historic Fault Log
------------------
P0174: System too Lean (Bank 2)
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged
End of report.

zmanelite, you should not be driving the car!
let it get looked at by an experienced tuner, looks like there is something wrong with either your map or fuel supply.
If it is throwing lean codes, it is definitely way to lean for forced induction

as for the P0106 MAP range problem, tell your tuner to disable the DTC in your map file (this is normal, the MAP sensor is not supposed to see positive pressure, as it is an N/A vehicle after all)

I would definitely recommend adding an AFR gauge, for any kind of aftermarket boost it is essential to always know AFRs are good, especially if you floor it

As for downpipe/cat upgrades, i read a lot about that and most people will tell you that downpipes/cats or TPs will decrease boost on the stock pulleys/impellers.
I have just installed this kit, i am running stock headers, berk HFCs, Motordyne XYZ Pipe and Tanabe Exhaust, so pretty much everything except for headers.
I am seeing 8psi on the dyno and 9psi on the road, so i consider this to be a myth.

Check the fuel line that attaches to the fuel pump. Also because the fuel pump is bigger than the stock fuel pump the filter on the end of it was not staying on. This made the fuel pump float in the fuel pump assembly. With this happening my car would always have fuel starvation issues on turns. I've tracked my car 3 times. So what we did is tie strap the fuel pump to the fuel pump assembly. Now I have no fuel starvation issues. I also have the heat exchanger that comes with the kit and it works fine. I'm sure if I upgraded to a bigger one it would be better but my car is running perfect now. Trust me I know your frustration. I had so much trouble with thus kit but finally for about a year now it's been running good. I got it installed in 2012.

My car was customed tuned and it's running 415/310 on 93 and another 20-30 whp on 100LL. All my trouble was from the fuel line. The tune had nothing to do with any problem. But since I had so many problems I'm not going to put a smaller pulley. I want to but I think more power now is not a good idea. Since is running good now I'm going to leave it alone.

can you elaborate on this?

I had this ONCE:
P0106: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
I reset the code and had my tuner tune the range of the MAP sensor to a higher threshold. At least what he told me ,I never can back on again. I would look at that for an option. That also may tie to your lean code NO?

Agree, Mine was close to that before I started pushing for 500 WHP, made 412WHP and 300 WTRQ.