Engine Build
 

So I picked up a spare VHR from a 2008 G37 and planned on building it slowly overtime. Long story short that timetable has moved up significantly due to bearing failure, the most likely cause is the stillen underdrive pulley.

The car still runs but I'm sure it wont survive much longer under any kind of abuse, so for now I'm not driving the car as I don't really enjoy the idea of throwing a rod.

I'm doing a "budget build" here and my power goals are no more than 600whp, I'm more concerned with long term reliability than big power. The head is quite capable of making that power and really needs no work done. I am confident the 28rs .64 can hit close to 600whp on high boost/pump so I have no plans on upgrading the turbos.

Here is my parts list:

Wiseco 96mm 10:1 pistons (.020" over)
K1 Rods w/ARP bolts
ARP L19 Head studs (OEM head gaskets)
Calico coated OEM bearings
ARP Main Studs
CSF Radiator
Z1 Motor mounts
All new gaskets and seals

Currently I'm waiting on pistons as the 10:1 CR is custom order, so the machine work wont start for another 4-5 weeks most likely.

Unfortunately it seems that no one makes any kind of race bearings for the VHR yet, so coated oem will have to suffice. Having the full rotating assembly balanced including the stock pulley should help prevent any issues as well.

Real Auto Dynamics will be handling the build for me. Normally I really take pride in doing this kind of work myself, but I just don't have the space for this kind of project anymore unfortunately :(

Watch this space over the next few weeks for pictures of parts and tear down of the VHR, hopefully followed closely by the machine/assembly work :tup:

good luck with the build, I will be watching closely and taking notes. ;)

I am very interested in this, as I am doing something similar. The only real difference thus far is I am doing 9:1 compression pistons.. more boost! :excited:...

Sucks to hear you had to move up your plans, but glad to know you were almost ready.
Looking forward to seeing the outcome of this engine build.

A long overdue update:

I took apart the spare engine and got the pistons/rods/block to the machine shop about 2 months ago. It took a few weeks to get the proper main/rod bearings spec'd and ordered but the engine is back from the machine shop and waiting at RAD to start assembly.

Right now I'm waiting on a few things from nissan that shipped today: engine rebuild gasket kit, oil pump/pickup, and all the timing chain components. Engine assembly should start this week with the short block and next week I'll be dropping off the car so we can pull the engine/kit to swap over to the built block.

I got a nice delivery today from Sam @ GTM

http://i.imgur.com/EzqDms7.jpg

.86 housings (stage 2), aeromotive 340lph fuel pump, and ARP main studs. I decided if I'm going to do this I might as well be able to break 600whp :tup:

I'll be breaking in the engine with my existing fuel setup/tune, once spring comes i'll upgrade the injectors and drop in the fuel pump and then its back to the dyno for some new numbers.

oh and here's some piston porn (top coating prevents heat soak into the piston and keeps it in the chamber for more power, side coating reduces wear on the skirts from dry startups)

http://i.imgur.com/j50vrUQ.jpg

:drool:

This makes me wish I would have built my motor and stuck with my single turbo...

Excited to see results. GL with the process

Very similar to my setup. I have the K1 rods, ARP studs, and Wiseco 9:1 pistons. (We had our rotating assy balanced, and they removed metal on the pistons to match and the car is crazy smooth. I hope yours will be also.)

Staying posted. Thanks for your time showing us.

Coop

nice stuff!

I had the pistons/rods balanced and then the full rotating assembly balanced with crank pulley and flywheel, so this better be smooth as butter!

Build looks awesome! Very similar to what I would like to do at some point. Would you mind giving me a ballpark idea of what labor costs on something like this?

machine shop costs were about 1600, and another 350 for coating services (pistons/bearings). that will vary depending on the shop of course.

as for engine assembly and installation id say anywhere from 3-6k, its difficult to ballpark these numbers since theres a lot of factors

Thanks! It is definitely a subjective question, since there are so many factors involved. I appreciate the info.

Glad to see the ball is finally rolling on his build cant wait to see your car on the road.:tup:

It's nice to know that there are 4 built motor VHR's in the North East

I hope to join the club soon, saving up my pennies!

Very reasonable!

the block ended up going back to the machine shop to get line honed for the ARP main studs, I hadn't thought about that when I purchased them, doh. The short block is being assembled right now and I finally dropped the car off last night at Real Auto Dynamics for the tear down. Should be back on the road in a few weeks with more pics to come!

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...82940697_n.jpg

Sweet!

:drool: so awesome!

Tear down began today buddy ;)

just as excited to have this car back on the road with its other boosted brothers. we'll have to arrange a boost run with all the "gold sticker" cars... maybe a cruise from the shop to mohegan sun?

squeeze you in? lol

You know it don't have go ask me twice just tell me when .

it has begun!

http://i.imgur.com/0q69crV.jpg

Engine was torn down yesterday and the new engine is already being assembled. Two interesting things came up so far:

1.) ARP main studs do NOT clear the VHR windage tray, the tray needs to be modified/notched in a few spots to clear a few of the studs which isn't really a concern but worth noting.

2.) The stock dual mass flywheel does NOT like torque. When they removed the flywheel they discovered that the spring portion which helps absorb some of the NVH has essentially broken allowing the 2 pieces to move independently. This was with maybe ~4k miles on my TT kit with the oem flywheel, I never even launched the car. Anyone who is still running the stock clutch and flywheel should be careful.

Good stuff!

That's a very cool picture. Interesting news on the clutch since lots of people have run FI on the stock clutch successfully for quite some time.

I call it a ticking time bomb :p

Probably right. I plan to get the most of out my stock clutch before changing it. I managed to drive my stock STi clutch on a 490WHP car for years and never had to replace it, though it did start to slip towards the end.

^i suppose u could do that. I hope ur doing all ur own labor because if not makes no sense to drop the motor twice. If ur tryna save money then yes doing ur own work is beneficial just need time to do it.
For those that have a shop do the work makes no sense because ur not saving money. To drop the motor twice will cost more than what you will save going this route.

One of the things that is mysterious is the reuse of the cam controllers. According to Nissan you can't. According to others you can, but there is some secret or trick to the timing?

I ended up purchasing new @ $1600. :( What do you know and plan on?

Thanks.

Coop

Best of luck to you.

Damn. 1600??? Has anyone factored that price tag into these builds?

:iagree:

How's the pistons, rods, bearings, valves, etc?

I would like to know more about the bearing failure being due to the Stillen underdrive pulley. I was under the impression that the Pulley's from Stillen & NST were safe.

I have a fulley built engine with all GTM parts 10.1 comp, I bought it here in Canada, it was built up here as well.
it 20 thou. over bore as well.
It will go into the car when i get the stage 3 SC from GTM. I have the june Cams and tehy are going into this moter.
Z

You'll have to do a search or two on the subject. theres a few threads somewhere about them.

just not worth it in my opinion.

:iagree: Why risk the trouble for a couple of whp?

Typo? Repeat this slowly. What cams?

Thanks.

Coop

Thanks for the responses. I did a search previously and it seemed opinions were all over the board. But yea, not worth the risk.

He's talking about the JUN Exhaust cams.