those are the same injectors I am running :tup:

as much as I can on 93, from what I've seen with a VHR at 10:1 thats about 16-17psi

:tup:

Only 650cc injectors? I have the ID1000s, Aeromotive FP, and a return system. All I need now is forged internals, a little intake tweaking, and more boost. I really need to get my pennies together now, so I can join the built boosted club, lol.

Sent from my D-Team-MT4GS-CM10.1

I put 650's in when I installed the kit last year, 850's are going in soon

Now we are talking :driving:

Hey Nick, on this google doc you created:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...DMWtBT0E#gid=0

Are all those parts included on the OEM gasket kit that you can get for about $200ish? I know the oil pump and timing components are not, but how about what above them on the list?

How's the car doing?!

it might be, but at the time when I ordered it courtesy couldn't find the "gasket set", if you can get it that should cover you.

my Z is back in the shop unfortunately, looks like I lifted the head last week probably from overheating. my car has been plagued with overheating issues all summer since I turned up the boost. I switched to a mishimoto radiator and added a 2012+ expansion tank which helped a bit, but doing 2-3 back to back pulls the car would overheat, even in cool temperatures.

I suspect that the turbos are boiling coolant creating air pockets in the cooling system due to how GTM routed the turbo lines: coolant output of passenger is coolant input of driver, so driver side turbo is being cooled with very hot coolant.

oh man, that sucks, I hope you can get it figured out. Are you going to tun independent cooling lines for each turbo?

yep, thats the plan

keep us posted, might as well do this when my engine is out.

esfourteen: check and see if the cabin heat works properly at idle. is your cooling system requiring frequent bleeding? Have you been watching the coolant level in the overflow tank? Your symptoms, with the little detail given so far, make me cross my fingers that your headgaskets are ok.

my headgasket is already shot, I had to tow the car to the shop last week.

heat worked fine, the expansion tank would consistently push a bit of coolant out on higher boost pulls without overheating. so either exhaust gasses were getting in to the coolant through the headgasket under higher boost levels, or the turbos were boiling coolant creating air pockets.

I'm certainly not ruling out the possibility of exhaust pushing bast the headgasket into the water jacket, but I've only ever heard of that happening under knock. I tried running 100 octane and 17psi with 11.5 AFR and I still experienced overheating and pushing coolant, so I find it hard to believe it was knock related. keep in mind i am running an oem headgasket but using ARP L19 studs.

I really don't know what happened for sure, but I do know the way GTM routes the coolant lines to the turbos is incredibly inefficient, so thats getting sorted regardless, and I'll be switching to a cosworth headgasket. I'll know more once we pull the engine and take the heads off which should be happening this week.

How's that exactly? What other way would/could you do it?

i was gonna say.. stock headgasket? :O that sucks you're having cooling issues. I hope you get them figured out soon. What kinda hp were you making at 17psi do you think?

The stock head gaskets aren't exactly a weak link, especially with l19 studs. If the surfaces were perfect and clean on assembly with adequate stud torque, they should be fine for high power use.

What do you have the studs torqued to?

Once a head gasket developes a leak it will get worse and worse and cause problems even at lower boost and eventually no boost. We had a head gasket go out on a 1725rwhp viper during a pass and it ended up melting down the block in the whole area!

Your gaskets leaking could be damage that occurred a while ago and it's just getting noticeable? Getting the ignition timing to do what you want it to do using the reflash is sort of difficult I have gathered. My car is always attempting to add more timing and runs much more aggressive in the cool air on the street that it did when I tuned it. I might fear how long term reliable this engine would be at the power I run if I was wasn't using e85... And not because of the engine itself but because of the ecu controlling it doing some goofy things at times.

I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know... Just thinking aloud and brainstorming.

e85 is most likely what I'm doing next time around, just to avoid any issues. theres plenty of stations on long island. I am also considering ecutek for the better timing control.

As I stated in my previous post, the coolant output of the passenger turbo is routed to the input of the driver side turbo, as you can imagine the coolant coming out of the passenger turbo is going to be hot and is not an ideal source to cool the driver side turbo. this is probably fine for running low boost but the higher you spin the turbos, the hotter they are going to get.

what should be done is the same thing that every factory twin turbo car does, individual coolant source and return lines.

Gotcha. Makes perfect sense.

I didn't get a chance to dyno at 17, but it was somewhere around 600, I made 575hp/550tq at 15psi on a dynojet. people are running the stock head gasket with more power, it's mls

Dat torque.

Sent with TapAhoe

Damn Nick, I am sorry to hear that the car is back in the shop. It sounds as though that is a very plausible source of the overheating issue. Hopefully they will be able to resolve it quickly!!

subd! Awesome!

Man, I must have been under a rock or something. Dude, you built, boosted (big), and retooled............AND I am just now seeing this? I apologize for being obliviously not paying proper attentions, lol. So where do we go from here as a fix action?

Also, is there a reason that you RAD Built-Boost-Brothers have been going with 10:1 pistons?

Better spool and drivability. The engine is fckin strong, no need to drop the CR too much for ~600hp.


Now 1000+ and you're looking at 8.5:1 or less and awful lag lol.

That's good to know. My tuner suggested I go 10:1 or 9.5:1, I chose the latter. He builds a lot of GTRs, and immediately goes 10:1 when building them. I hope the 9.5:1 will not be too laggy with the GTM TT kit:)

choosing compression really depends on what fuel you plan to run and how much boost. i wanted better response off boost and didn't plan on running more than ~18psi on pump, so i chose 10:1

Hey Nick, one more question about the gasket kit. Nissan has valve stem oil seals as part of the kit but they are not on your list. Did you reuse yours since you didn't mess with the heads?

If he didn't disassemble the heads, then he definitely didn't replace those.


(just built a head for an RB)
(big pain in the ***)

what I thought, thanks!

yeah I didn't touch the head, no point.

So i just heard back from the guys at R.A.D., one of the head gaskets failed, which we knew, but nothing is warped, which is great news. There was also no damage to the bearings and no signs of detonation at all, so the engine is healthy.

Now since the engine is out, time for some upgrades:

Cosworth headgaskets
R.A.D. v-band exhaust manifolds
Tial v-band turbine housings
Tial external wastegates
Re-routing the coolant lines to the turbos
AeroJacket vented hood, being delivered next week.

The plan is to see how this holds up next summer. Assuming theres no overheating issues I will likely upgrade to GTX2867R compressors.

pheew! Glad to hear everything is ok!

Please show us how they do this. It's one of the things I'd like to do before next summer.

Great to hear. I am nipping at the bit to see those R.A.D manifolds.

Open Dumps.. cough cough.

you'll never catch me running open dumps, sorry dude :tup:

Haha I don't blame yah. I have been toying the idea of changing it up myself. :tiphat:

Small update, I've decided to keep my current manifolds/housings/internal WG's, just upgrading the head gasket, fixing the coolant lines, swain tech for all the exhaust components (previous ceramic coating was not rated high enough and flaked off) and bracing the driver side manifold.

Why brace the manifold? Here's mine after ~10k miles:

http://i.imgur.com/V1CCSHs.jpg

That highlighted area would be a crack. Every GTM manifold I've seen that has a few thousand miles on it cracks in this same spot.

The shops fabricator is going to repair this and then make a brace to help support the weight of the turbo from the block. I hope the new GTM manifolds everyone is waiting on no longer have this issue!

Cracks Cracks Cracks.. Forgot to ask you today, are your Manifolds Coated as well?

they were but my coating was **** and didn't hold up well. once they are repaired I'm getting them coated by swaintech