Sweet...

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Hey nick is there any way you could get a better pic of that 3/4" T fitting? So from the new port is a fitted 3/4" T fitting that feeds the turbo's from the bottom instead of the passanger side line going straight to the drivers side? A diagram would be great just to clarify for others?

I'll see what I can do, maybe get a part number for the T fitting. as for the routing, thats all there is to it: T from block splits into 2 and one goes to firewall side of driver turbo and the other goes to engine side of passenger turbo. both remaining coolant lines run up to the passenger side heater core return with another T fitting.

NSFW

http://i.imgur.com/ITsspTs.jpg

Money shot baby!

Count me in for both if they do.

http://distilleryimage0.ak.instagram...c9558930_8.jpg

she lives! only thing left before she's back on the road is an alignment

Hey nick any word on that part number for that 3/4 T fitting? I started putting mine back together today and want to use that port to cool the turbos..

I'll check tomorrow

Post up the dyno and psi..

she's not getting dyno'd right now. don't forget my engine was built last year lol, this was just head gaskets, water lines, manifold fix, new ceramic coating and upgrading Southbend from 3 -> 3.5. I do plan on dialing in 17psi and going for 600+ on pump within the next few weeks though but I have to break in the clutch. after I break 600 on pump and confirm no over heating issues I'll switch to e85.

I have a dynojet sheet at roughly 15psi tapering to 13 I can post up, that was 575whp/540tq.

post it up man

The best view of all that swain tech coating goodness.

http://i.imgur.com/8jTreUc.jpg

Car needs an alignment and an inspection, but she's home and running great! The RAD team was meticulous as usual, I truly can't recommend them enough. If you're in the north east this is the only shop you need!

As for the water lines... these are the lines and fittings they are using for their in house turbo kit, which should hit the forums in the next month or so (its a full bolt on kit with custom vband manifolds/turbos, amazing fabrication). If you are interested in purchasing a set of lines, just give the shop a call: Tuesday - Saturday: 516 442-7155

I'm curious but I noticed you didn't have the brace put back on that connects the down pipes to the tranny. Do you think that may cause it to pull down on the turbo's/exhaust manifolds possibly creating stress??

it was just off in the picture, we were aligning the steering rack coupler. I would never recommend leaving that brace off it's definitely needed, I broke two flex joints in my old exhaust without using it.

I couldn't agree more to keeping it on but figured I would ask. Keep us updated and congrats on being up and going again!!!

I'm posting this here for a proper comparison for when I get back on the dyno in the next week or so. This was my dyno from June of 2013 when the car began having overheating problems. I had to wait several minutes between runs due to the coolant boiling in the overflow tank.

I also hadn't quite figured out how to dial in the boost controller at this point so boost would spike up to about 15 and then gradually fall to mid 12's by redline, timing was also lackluster in the upper RPM's which I suspect was due to the temperatures (the car showed no signs of knock and when we tore it down for headgaskets had 0 signs of knock anywhere)

http://i.imgur.com/5PQUjGN.jpg

Update? What were the final numbers?

car is in the body shop now (painting the aerojacket hood and nismo front bumper), new boost controller is on the way (GFB). I'll be tuning on the dyno on the 5/10

I also want to mention I beat the crap out of the car and haven't seen more than ~200F for water or oil, so I'm confident my overheating issues are sorted

:excited:

:drama:IN

http://i.imgur.com/9EW56Ey.jpg

car is back, but I have to push off the dyno. no time to install the boost controller this week so I'll do that saturday instead

Installed the GFB boost controller and I still have the same issue, running over 12psi boost drops hard around 6800 which means either the turbos are too small (obviously not the case here) or there's too much exhaust flow and it's pushing the WG door open(ding ding ding). Most guys run external WG's which are dual port so they don't have this issue, so I just ordered a set of turbonetics dual port internal actuators.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...7_143419-1.jpg

The way these work is by applying a boost source to the top half of the actuator spring which helps prevent the exhaust gasses from forcing the WG open. Once I install these I will finally get it back on the dyno.

Hey mate,

congrats first on getting the car back and working out the issue of the boost drop :)

do you think this would still happen on the .86 models of the same turbo's with IWG? Reason I ask is if I eventually get my GTM kit, these are the turbo's I will have and eventually up the boost over 10-11psi once I upgrade to an e85 compatible system.

I also missed which GFB product you have, is it the newer style G-force II? I've got the same one but haven't really seen any reviews of it yet.

I have the .86 housings, so yes it will happen, but not at low boost. I can easily
hold 10-12psi to redline without issue, beyond that on the internal WG's you will see a drop, stock block I wouldn't worry about it, you shouldn't be running more than ~14psi even on e85. These actuators only cost $65 a piece though so it might not be a bad idea to install them with the kit, you can still run as low as 7-8psi.

I'm using the new gfb g-force ii model, it works great, really like this unit very simple to use. I just wish it had boost by speed/gear.

cheers thanks for the info, can you link me to a part number of the part you have ordered? I'll get them before the install to make it easier to run higher boost in the future without having to pull anything apart.

I'm going out on a limb here but do you think maybe they didn't tighten the waste gate up enough?

if by "tighten the waste gate" are you asking if the flapper door is loose? it's most definitely not. if you mean preload on the actuator, it's set to 10.5psi currently, adding more preload can help with boost drop off but you sacrifice adjustability, I like running low boost when it's cold or wet out. it also wouldn't solve the problem 100%

Turbonetics 30326

Ever get it retuned?

i have an appointment next saturday actually. I did dyno after installing the new actuators but boost was still falling off 3-4 psi up top, the actuators were set to ~11psi, the 2 runs are 14psi falling to 12, and 17psi falling to 13

This was an older dyno jet, which I happened to break after about 15pulls, and for some reason the turbos spooled incredibly slow on this thing. Adjusting gain on my boost controller had NO affect what so ever which tells you it wasnt even getting a chance to adjust anything because load wasnt high enough, where as on the street I can get 14psi by 3200rpm without overshooting target boost.

http://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/h...99&oe=544660A1

After this dyno I added as much preload as possible so the actuators are set to 13psi currently, 17psi hold to about 15 now and doesnt seem to drop off as early, but its so hard to tell on the street.

f*ck internal wastegates on this car.