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GTM Stage I TT Build - Shadetree Style

Wow! I'd be afraid to ruin my car doing it myself

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Old 05-01-2011, 07:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Wow! I'd be afraid to ruin my car doing it myself
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Old 05-01-2011, 07:58 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SPOHN View Post
The pic where your tapping the block is that a flange to help with aligning the tap?
Yes. That's exactly what it is.

Even with this it's still extremely nerve racking to drill into the head. I wasn't sure I had done it right until I was able to tighten up the manifold. Hell, I'm still worried that I did something wrong. I guess I'll find out the first time I push the start button.
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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So the 370z engine heads do not have holes that align with the GTM manifold? Back when I did the install on my G37, the heads had the hole drilled but were not threaded. I just had to thread the holes. I guess now it adds another level of challenge. Did GTM provide the template flange?
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:04 PM   #19 (permalink)
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that aluminum brace that attaches to the bottom of the steering rack needs to be flipped upside down from how you have it now. The rolled bead should face up (180º) from the stock position. Otherwise the brace under it will no longer fit with the spaced steering rack.
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:08 PM   #20 (permalink)
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So the 370z engine heads do not have holes that align with the GTM manifold? Back when I did the install on my G37, the heads had the hole drilled but were not threaded. I just had to thread the holes. I guess now it adds another level of challenge. Did GTM provide the template flange?
its one of the 09+ changes .. Nissan quit wasting time drilling and tapping holes that were not needed. I assume the extra holes were left over from the DE engine, where i assumed they were to accommodate a different exhaust manifold design from maybe a FWD platform.
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Old 05-02-2011, 06:26 AM   #21 (permalink)
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that aluminum brace that attaches to the bottom of the steering rack needs to be flipped upside down from how you have it now. The rolled bead should face up (180º) from the stock position. Otherwise the brace under it will no longer fit with the spaced steering rack.
I think it's an optical illusion. The rolled edge is up. Look at the left side of the pic.
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:05 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Congrats on the kit I love to see people get there hands dirty good luck on the rest of the install.
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Old 05-02-2011, 12:49 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dembflyr View Post
Yes. That's exactly what it is.

Even with this it's still extremely nerve racking to drill into the head. I wasn't sure I had done it right until I was able to tighten up the manifold. Hell, I'm still worried that I did something wrong. I guess I'll find out the first time I push the start button.
I know the feeling. I have it everytime I do an install. If the manifold tighten up it should be fine. Props for doing this yourself. Can't wait to do mine also. Might be awhile for. By the time I do it, I might as well go with a built short block.
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Old 05-02-2011, 02:27 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Congrats on the DIY man.. Did my SC install myself so I can somewhat feel your pain.. luckily didn't have to mess with exhaust manifolds though.. That part does not look fun..

Can't wait to see more progress.
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Old 05-02-2011, 06:13 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Thanks for the support.

Now I just need to get home and do more.
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:09 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Keep up the good work!
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:03 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Awesome job on the self install so far!
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:52 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Ok, so I got home tonight and I just couldnt go to sleep so I decided to try one more time to get the upper O2 sensors out of the factory headers.
A bit of PB Balster and by working them back and forth, I was able to get them out.
The threads are a bit gnarled up but I think they can be saved. They still thread into the down pipes no problem but Sam suggested that I clean the threads up a bit with a die.
I ordered a M18x 1.5 spindle thread repair die on snapon.com for $13 shipped.
If this works I'm gonna be a happy dude.
Those fricken sensors are $500 EACH!! from the dealer. I did find them for $350 each from Z1 but hopefully I won't need to spend the money.

Also, I was looking at my down pipes and trying to see how they would mate up to my Berk exhaust. The only way that I could see it working was if I used smaller bolts. That didn't seem like the best way to go either so again Sam made another great suggestion.
He said that I could have a shop weld a 3" flange onto my Berk X pipe.
I don't know why I didnt think of that but it's a hell of a lot cheaper then buying a 3" exhaust. I love how my Berk sounds and don't want any drone so a 3" exhaust isn't an option for me.

One last thing, I need to say a huge thank you to Sam. Even as busy as he is, he always takes the time to answer all of my questions. It seems that these days customer service is a lost art to most companys. Not at GTM!
I have bothered him countless times and I'm sure I am not any where near done bothering him and he has always been a absolute professional with me.

Time for some sleep. I am getting up early tomorrow to get some more work done before I have to leave again on Thursday.
I am hoping to be able to get at least one turbo mounted tomorrow.
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:50 PM   #29 (permalink)
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You should of went with a open dump setup? Doesn't seem like anyone is running this setup yet. It's nice to ride around and scare the hell out of people also.
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Old 05-04-2011, 08:30 PM   #30 (permalink)
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You should of went with a open dump setup? Doesn't seem like anyone is running this setup yet. It's nice to ride around and scare the hell out of people also.
If you mean an open dump on the waste gate then I am.

Sam is working on it for me.

First page updated with today's progress.
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