That's what i'm running - ZSpeed Stage 3 Super Street Clutch 370Z Complete Clutch \ Flywheel System

RT Tuning should be receiving my kit soon. Planning on having them swap out the Ace Kit for the new Rotrex Kit but not sure if I will need to upgrade my injectors. As of right now, I'm shooting for 625whp. I was able to hit 540whp with the Ace Kit so I'm hoping with the Rotrex that I will have enough injector.

1050's and the 450 should be able to get you to 625. That's what I ran and I was good until I got to 650whp and then I needed to upgrade both pump and injectors

I ran the super street clutch from Zspeed and it was very nice but I am pulling to much tq and it would slip so I went to the 6 puck from Zspeed …. There is defiantly a learning curve but once it broke in fully I don’t have too much trouble with it for daily driving …the super street clutch should be fine for you with the supercharger with its tq range and how it build power.

I have the Xtreme Twin Plate Clutch installed in my Z. Rated at 885 lb-ft.

It can be a challenge to take off quickly in 1st gear in a smooth manner due to the sudden on/off clutch engagement feel (or lack thereof) of the standard pedal. I'll have the RJM AFP Clutch Pedal System installed later this summer. Hopefully that helps to provide for a smoother 1st gear engagement from a full stop.

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/us/xtre...trkfd23648-2g/

edit: plus, it's kinda noisy in different ways. this is my first-ever aftermarket race clutch, so it's new to me that a clutch can be making so many weird noises - but quite normal I'm told.

Perfect!

Right on, I ordered the stage 3, clutch install kit and the CMAK. will be installing this weekend long as it gets here when it's supposed to. Should I install a new CMC at the same time? Never really got a answer about that from Joe. Eventually I'd like to get a RJM pedal and HD CMC, but I couldn't even find a HD one for sale. Car has 35k miles, clutch fluid looks kinda dark tho.

Most people recommend changing it out I havnt changed mine out and I’m on my 3rd clutch …I also flush the fluids when I notice it looking dark or dirty

Been running my kit since last August, id1050 injectors, aeromotive 340, currently on 91 about 11psi. Going to be upgrading the clutch soon, I have the CJM s1.e and flex fuel ready to go in. Plan to turn up the boost to 14-15psi.

I have had no real issues with the kit, it's great. Other than a slight flutter here and there. If anyone has any questions on the install feel free hmu.

:hello:

IG: gc_z34

What kind of Whp?

I havent dyno'd it yet. If I have to guess from the butt dyno, probably between 400-450.

Does anyone have a pic with this kit on a G37 without needing hood pins? Every build I’ve found so far has had to replace the latch with pins because the engine is higher up than on the Z. The kit looks awesome but that’s the only thing holding me back! TIA

I have G, unless you ran no intake/filter or maybe some custom intake pipe. No way around not using pins or I’m using aerocatch latches.

You might start running out of pump going any higher boost.

The G37 intake was addressed a long time ago. Its easily accomplished by not using pins. You just need a different coupler that comes off the inlet of the SC. I have been sending that setup out since the first feedback of that hood latch issue.

That’s what I wanted to hear! I’ll be ordering next week!

What! I have not seen this, I thought the G's were stuck needing hood pins!

Pics?

If we do it’s all good. Now that we are installing the cjm fuel system that has the inline fuel filter we can install the walbro 450. Not worried about cutting out the one in the fuel basket.


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You're gonna love that set up!

Anyone running a brushless pump? My tuner is suggesting that's what I go with.

Finally scheduled a week off of work, will be installing my kit next month! Got the zspeed stage 3 clutch/flywheel and cmak installed last weekend, got it done in 2 days, not bad considering i had never done a clutch before and doing it in my driveway on jack stands. My FI oil cooler just shipped out, buying injectors and fuel pump next week.

I think that depends on your power goals

My build is now a work in progress... :tup:

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1654428537

Looks Awesome!
I can only hope that my kit comes out just as well!

Very nice man, I finally have everything needed to install mine. Taking next week off from work, soon I'll be your twin. Except my pipes are red, had a red z when I ordered my kit, got a black one now but I think it'll still look good. Went with the DW 440 brushless fuel pump per Eugene's recommendation.

Anyone running an oil cooler kit? Any suggestions?

I have a FI oil cooler, installing it right now actually. Don't know how well it's going to fit with the sc kit yet. Just figured out I didn't receive any instructions with my kit and I think Aaron is on vacation. Making progress tho, dw fuel pump and cjm top hat are in, all wiring is done. Working on the cjm RFS still.

I’m running a 24-row z1 kit and it’s barely enough. Oil temps in 90 degree stop and go traffic hit about 235. I just got back from driving up mountain passes in 60 degree evening weather and I couldn’t get it higher than 220.

I use a 16-row cooler with 180F Thermostat, and 170F thermostat switch wired to 4 - IP68/75CFM fans - 670-OD8032-12HBIP68. Temps will slowly drop down below 200F while idling or stop go. Highest Temp I've seen is 218F while hooning.

I'm sure this setup is lacking for track use but works perfectly on the street, oil warms up very quickly and then stays around 190-200F, only creeps up on pulls but doesn't take too long to drop back down.

Getting close... really happy with the red, gives a bit of contrast. The FI oil cooler fit but a PITA to run and hook up the lines. Anyone else have to remove the driver side horn for the air filter to fit? Not a big deal just curious.

https://flic.kr/p/2nsV7po
https://flic.kr/p/2nsV7pU

Yes. I think I had to bend the mounting bracket or something..

Since my car is not my daily, it's very rare if I ever take it out in 90 degree weather. During summer months I usually take it out in the evenings when it is cooler out. I'm debating between the 16 row or 24 row.

My car is not my daily and will never see the track, so this may be a pretty good set up for me or just go with a 24 row oil cooler. Thanks

Been a long time coming finding time to do some dyno pulls with Eugene. A couple weeks ago we scheduled a remote dyno tuning session at a local shop I have been using for last several years. The owner recently purchased a Dyno Com AWD dyno for the shop. The day I scheduled turned out to be about the worst weather day for dyno tuning, especially inside a metal building. The ambient air temps were over 100 degrees. IAT's were pretty dang high. We did put a swamp cooler type device in front of car and got the IAT's manageable. The owner of the shop had some learning curve issues getting the dyno setup and the graph to be what Eugene was needing. After several pulls it became apparent to Eugene that something was off with the graph. On the attached "IPS Dyno" you can see that it appears the end of the pull occurs around 7400 RPM and the power starts falling off significantly before 7K RPM. Eugene was watching the data live and said this didn't make sense with what the data showed. He recommended I find another dyno since he didn't trust the graph and didn't want to be adjusting blindly. Not sure what the issue was with the IPS dyno but apparently some setup issues exist in the software.

Yesterday I took the Z to another dyno near my house(Kwik Kar) and made some pulls just to see if the data from IPS Dyno could be duplicated and what the graph looked like. This is the same tune from the IPS graph just a little cooler weather, 96 versus 101. As you can see on the Kwik Kar graph attached, the pull extends to approximately 7800 RPM and the power doesn't fall off until 7500ish RPM. This graph makes sense with the logged data and Eugene and I will be scheduling another remote session using this dyno.

Both Dyno's are manufactured by DynoCom. IPS dyno is an above ground all wheel drive dyno with 2 rollers on front and rear wheels, it was operated in 2wd mode. The Kwik Kar dyno is an in ground single roller that the owner reported was calibrated by Dyno Com in the last 2 months. IPS dyno used STD correction and Kwik Kar corrected with SAE.

With all that said, the Log was showing 14 PSI for max boost and the car put down 534 RWHP and 450 Torque on an incomplete tune with E-80. I am looking to land at 600 RWHP and have a reliable street car.

Hoping to get the next dyno session scheduled and completed in the next few weeks.

Well I just ordered a Top Gun Speedworks Kit. ETA is 6-12 weeks out. I'll be running this on my '14 Nismo 6MT. Joining the Boosted Brotherhood of Z owners. CJM Fuel return and twin pump kit is also on order, ETA for them is September-ish. Will be switching from an Osiris tune to ECUTek tune in the process. Pistons and rods to be swapped too.

Will be running the ID1300 injectors. Planning to tune for E85. Track days are going to be more exciting I think. I'll post updates when stuff starts arriving and the install progresses.

What supporting mods do you have?

RT Tuning just received my kit and my car will be going into the shop on Monday. Other upgrades will include 1300cc injectors and a Z1 24 row oil cooler. Power goals will be 625whp-650whp and keeping the torque on the lower side.

Everything.
Oil Cooler, Trans Cooler, VR30 TT 7AT, Fast Intentions Billet flex plate, CJM Return System with Billet Rails and ID 1300 CC injectors, Walbro 450 Pump, Zeitronix Flex Fuel Sensor, wastegate on charge pipe.

Nice! You're making the same numbers I was making on a fully tuned ACE Kit. Can't wait to see what you do with a fully tuned Rotrex Kit!

So ready to pull trigger on this kit .

You won't be disappointed!