Nissan 370Z Forum
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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Forced Induction (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/)
-   -   ***Topgunz ROTREX C38R Supercharger Kit*** (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/135649-topgunz-rotrex-c38r-supercharger-kit.html)

14Q60awdSPORT 08-03-2022 09:41 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrBacon (Post 4028223)
Strongly disagree. You have two choices with water/meth injection

1) Use it as a safety. Tune the car for max "safe" timing on your normal fuel and use water/meth as basically an additive to negate any possible knock and reduce IAT's. Marginal if any increase in power. Car does not depend on it and the system can fail without any real downsides.

2) Use it as a power adder. Timing is increased beyond the normal limits of your pump gas knock rating. Now you've introduced multiple failure points in which can compromise your engine if there was a problem. The wiring can fail, the pump can fail, the nozzle can clog, you can run out of the water/meth mix, etc

None of this even includes the fact that methanol by nature is very corrosive. Yes, the water mix dilutes it and helps, but does not completely eliminate the inherent nature of methanol. Everything downstream after extended use is at risk. Seals, electronics (MAF/Sensors), hell it even eats aluminum too. Now, while there is "probably" going to be a negligible effect over the lifetime of the engine IF using a proper water/meth mix and only activating in boost, is it worth it? I don't think so. Just use ethanol lol.
I’ve used it on 3 builds and current build never with any issues whatsoever.

You don’t spray pre MAF…

Properly atomized 49% or less WM mix won’t cause any corrosive issues/concerns to anything that it would come in contact with. It’s too little amount, too low concentration and for too brief of time. If you have poor atomization, spraying way too much, have dripping or pooling issues or spray in the wrong part of the system, sure it would possibly be a concern. But that isn’t a concern on proper setup.

Your 1. Is always an option and has phenomenal benefits to heat soak/consistency of back to back pulls. Always a great easy safe option, but correct I wouldn’t consider it a power adder rather a power retainer.
Your 2. Is incorrect with a proper setup. WMI failsafe pretty much eliminates all of this concern and you can safely tune for the increased octane, cooling, and supplemental fuel being added and get great power gains in addition to the heat soak/consistency from option 1.

DrBacon 08-03-2022 10:09 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 14Q60awdSPORT (Post 4028224)
I’ve used it on 3 builds and current build never with any issues whatsoever.

You don’t spray pre MAF…

Properly atomized 49% or less WM mix won’t cause any corrosive issues/concerns to anything that it would come in contact with. It’s too little amount, too low concentration and for too brief of time. If you have poor atomization, spraying way too much, have dripping or pooling issues or spray in the wrong part of the system, sure it would possibly be a concern. But that isn’t a concern on proper setup.

Your 1. Is always an option and has phenomenal benefits to heat soak/consistency of back to back pulls. Always a great easy safe option, but correct I wouldn’t consider it a power adder rather a power retainer.
Your 2. Is incorrect with a proper setup. WMI failsafe pretty much eliminates all of this concern and you can safely tune for the increased octane, cooling, and supplemental fuel being added and get great power gains in addition to the heat soak/consistency from option 1.
The failsafes actually have a way to cut ignition with a factory ecu? Because if I remember right those "failsafes" were just a little indicator light if the nozzle was spraying. That would not save your engine if it decided to fail mid pull, or at worse, human error in failure to verify everything is working every time you get into boost.

14Q60awdSPORT 08-03-2022 10:28 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrBacon (Post 4028226)
The failsafes actually have a way to cut ignition with a factory ecu? Because if I remember right those "failsafes" were just a little indicator light if the nozzle was spraying. That would not save your engine if it decided to fail mid pull, or at worse, human error in failure to verify everything is working every time you get into boost.
The failsafe has a 0-5v output that you wire into your ecu the same as a flexfuel sensor/kit would, and when failsafe is triggered it will send a signal to the ecu and your tuner will setup the integration into the tune to have it automatically switch the tune to compensate if failure triggers. IE by adding more fuel, and pulling timing and/or reducing boost. Also the flow gauge tells you precisely when/if and exactly how many CC/min you are spraying as well to make it easy to verify and properly determine nozzle size.

The failsafe will trigger when flowing outside of your set CC/min flow range, pump failure, any electrical issues, wmi controller issues, clogged nozzles, leaky lines, or low fluid etc… pretty much any issues that could go wrong it can detect and automatically adjust tune (if tuner sets up in tune) to be safe if the system malfunctions/fails.

It also has a small light i always install by speedo cluster that will blink/flash indicating a failure, the WMI cc/min flow gauge will also flash. And they flash in various sequences to indicate which of the various failures where triggered.

This allows you to tune more aggressively without concerns.

FrankEtier 08-04-2022 09:31 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 14Q60awdSPORT (Post 4028218)
On my 92 pump tune I have zero problems making, and holding about 10.5-11psi with zero creep on the BOV/MAC, And 13psi with zero creep on my E40 tune which is used 99.9% of the time after tuning the 92 pump tune. The BOV was loud when off throttle and at 2.5k+ rpm, so I made a silencer can’t even hear BOV now except immediately off throttle at high rpm, and also routes the air opposite side of filter, possibly helps temps overall not dumping hot charge air all over everything

I have a g37 so a little different possibly but I got a 90 degree elbow and routed the filter behind the front grill right above the intercooler. l get all that direct cool air.
I have zero IAT/charge temp/heat soak issues, coolant issues etc… doing multiple high speed pulls back to back in hot weather.
I routed the exhaust from the BOV to dump under the car but it is still pretty noisy. What is the silencer you mention?

I've considered using the brake duct cutouts on my front bumper to allow additional direct cooler air flow to the filter..

So far no overheating issues on my setup.

14Q60awdSPORT 08-04-2022 04:01 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankEtier (Post 4028240)
I routed the exhaust from the BOV to dump under the car but it is still pretty noisy. What is the silencer you mention?

I've considered using the brake duct cutouts on my front bumper to allow additional direct cooler air flow to the filter..

So far no overheating issues on my setup.
I got a 1.5" to 2" coupler to put on the end of the BOV, then a 2" to 2" coupler joint, then a 2" to 2.5" 180 degree elbow. then got a 2" ID PVC pipe approx 9" long, that goes inside the end of the 180degree elbow, capped the end of it. Drilled about 120 or so 1/4 holes in it (none aiming down at the IC), Got some 3" length x 2.6" OD with a 0.8" OD internal hole aquarium sponge filter that I stuffed inside the pvc pipe and then ran some zip ties through to keep them in place. and then I placed a 6.5" KN cone filter over the exposed end of the PVC to clean up the appearance and keep debris/water etc... off of it.

Now I honestly forget it even has a BOV. Probably 80% quieter vs without. Before it was so noisy and annoying in typical city driving, sounded like a jet 24/7.

I got some pictures up on the G forums someplace.

redondoaveb 08-04-2022 05:08 PM
1 Attachment(s)
Picture of the silencer I had on my bov

HapaZ 08-04-2022 06:01 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by husam2012 (Post 4028217)

One big concern I saw is that installing the kit without modifying the front bumper to increase the airflow will make the engine overheat. We got the car to get to 230F coolant temps doing a 0-120 mph pull. Coolant is bled properly and there's no issues there. If you remove the bumper, the temps stay at a constant 190F which indiciates that there's way too much heat being generated.
I'm experiencing this issue as well. I opened a few discreet holes with a hole saw in my bumper and I'm running at about 227-228 degrees on my coolant temps after pulls. I've been running around 220 degrees when cruising. Last night I opened up two more not-so-discreet holes with ducts to either side of the Nissan logo. I'm not a huge fan of the look. I haven't tested yet, but I'm hoping this will bring the temps down some at least. If not, I'm going with a Stillen bumper and vented hood.

SeeThruHead 08-04-2022 06:26 PM
So for someone that will never run anything but 93/94. Will never cut holes in their bumper or get an aftermarket bumper with holes in it.
Does this kit perform any better than the previous one?

husam2012 08-04-2022 07:50 PM
I would not recommend this kit if you're not going to go with an aftermarket bumper or cutting up holes in your bumper. The older Vortech based kit did not seem to have this problem. I've also done a lot of TT kits and they don't have any cooling issues.

SwedeZ 08-05-2022 03:55 AM
I'm personally not seeing any of these overheating issues. Then again, I'm currently just outputting 480 whp, and I don't think I've had the car out when it was warmer than 27C/81F outside, so that may play a role as well.

Definitely happy with the kit as a whole thus far but not so much my current tune due to the major start difficulties I'm having. I have reached out to Aaron now for advice on this and maybe end up with a remote tune from Eugene or something along those lines.

FrankEtier 08-05-2022 07:31 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by HapaZ (Post 4028257)
I'm experiencing this issue as well. I opened a few discreet holes with a hole saw in my bumper and I'm running at about 227-228 degrees on my coolant temps after pulls. I've been running around 220 degrees when cruising. Last night I opened up two more not-so-discreet holes with ducts to either side of the Nissan logo. I'm not a huge fan of the look. I haven't tested yet, but I'm hoping this will bring the temps down some at least. If not, I'm going with a Stillen bumper and vented hood.

It's hot in Texas right now. 100 degrees everyday around Dallas where I live. I don't drive the Z everyday but when I do it is with AC on blast. Normal driving I see around 91C. If I make a pull it might go up to 101-104C but very shortly after it is back down around 90-91C. Having the AC on makes the radiator fan run constantly. I figured out that in the fall/winter when I'm driving with no AC the car actually runs hotter than in the summer. I think the programming is set for the fans to come on at 100C (212F) if AC is off.

My first supercharger kit so I don't have really any complaints or much to compare it to. It is not noisy like I have read the Vortech can be other than the BOV.

HapaZ 08-05-2022 09:37 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeThruHead (Post 4028259)
So for someone that will never run anything but 93/94. Will never cut holes in their bumper or get an aftermarket bumper with holes in it.
Does this kit perform any better than the previous one?
I talked with Eugene about this before installing. The benefits of this kit are that it's more efficient and has the ability to run higher boost if you want or are able to. When run at the same boost level as the Vortech kit, it's more efficient and produces more boost lower in the rev range. So even if a max hp number looks similar there is more power throughout.

I think the coolant temp issue is due to how large the intercooler is. A majority of the stock bumper opening is covered by it and by the lines to run the rotorex cooler and the core itself. I know this isn't a popular opinion, but my view for my car was that if I was going to run boost I had to be prepared to make other changes to accommodate a design that wasn't meant to be from the factory. It'd be nice if I didn't have cooling issues, but at the same time I was prepared to make changes if needed.

theDreamer 08-05-2022 12:11 PM
When it comes to heat, it is not just about more air into the engine bay or better cooling components (radiator/oil cooler/FMIC), you also need to get the air out of the engine bay.
You will see many with vented hood or fender liner to help airflow and pull air out of the engine bay.

Elmo370z 08-05-2022 06:20 PM
Tube n fin vs bar and plate, open up the front end, better radiator shroud

HapaZ 08-23-2022 07:11 PM
Quick update on the cooling issues… I opened two more holes in my bumper next to the Nissan emblem and went for a drive. At 5000ft up a 10 mile hill at highway speeds my coolant temp topped out at 109c. It was just below 100 degrees outside so I’m sure that didn’t help. Once I got to the top of the hill and started cruising down the other side temps dropped back down to around 94c. I know that’s a pretty extreme example with the thin air and all but it also convinced me to purchase a vented hood.

cgr406 08-28-2022 02:19 PM
I have a vented hood (Seibon TS style) and am having pretty significant overheating issues on hot days, even when I drive the car relatively calmly... well, maybe 1 or two short romps, but not really beating on it at all. It gets so hot you can hear the coolant boiling & it dumps out of the overflow tube. Going to try re-routing the BOV exhaust so that it's not dumping in front of the radiator. That can't be a good thing w/ all of that hot air being drawn through the radiator. I am running the stock (non-nismo) 2014 bumper.

JVerge5363 09-07-2022 10:38 PM
1 Attachment(s)
Tuning in progress

TopgunZ 09-08-2022 10:03 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JVerge5363 (Post 4029693)
Tuning in progress
How did this go?

takemorepills 09-13-2022 09:51 PM
Anyone have any good pics of this kit on a G Coupe without hood pins?

TopgunZ 09-14-2022 02:17 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by takemorepills (Post 4029934)
Anyone have any good pics of this kit on a G Coupe without hood pins?
There should be several as I have sold several and have sent the updated intake which allows the clearance. I literally only sold the 1 kit that required that hood pin modification.

TimG37X 09-14-2022 02:42 PM
I have 2012 G37X and can confirm that NO hood pins are needed. Clearance is tight but fits. It is key to have the offset coupler orientated correctly

SwedeZ 09-21-2022 07:56 AM
1 Attachment(s)
Hi everyone. I have had this pipe blow off twice now on really hard runs, despite it being clamped down really hard (just not hard enough, I guess :confused:). Anyone else had this happen?

Might try another type of clamping ring. Any suggestions?

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1663764704

14Q60awdSPORT 09-21-2022 09:30 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwedeZ (Post 4030202)
Hi everyone. I have had this pipe blow off twice now on really hard runs, despite it being clamped down really hard (just not hard enough, I guess :confused:). Anyone else had this happen?

Might try another type of clamping ring. Any suggestions?

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1663764704
Push it in further on that side, and pull it out more on the other side. Then it will have "fitment interference" and will be impossibly to pop off. The clamp should be clamped on before the ridged lip of the pipe, not on top of it, if its clamped before the ridged lip of pipe then it should be near impossible to pop off as well.

To further improve this you could also try adjusting the pipe/elbows going into the intercooler.

Spooler 09-21-2022 10:36 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 14Q60awdSPORT (Post 4030205)
Push it in further on that side, and pull it out more on the other side. Then it will have "fitment interference" and will be impossibly to pop off. The clamp should be clamped on before the ridged lip of the pipe, not on top of it, if its clamped before the ridged lip of pipe then it should be near impossible to pop off as well.

To further improve this you could also try adjusting the pipe/elbows going into the intercooler.
This, and use some hair spray on it to help it stick. LOL Old Diesel trick.

NorthStyle 09-21-2022 04:15 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 4030211)
This, and use some hair spray on it to help it stick. LOL Old Diesel trick.
Definitely works... done it many times myself

HapaZ 10-02-2022 10:43 AM
Anyone else have belt squeal only during startup? When I’m warm and driving around I have no issue with it.

TopgunZ 10-02-2022 08:27 PM
Tighten the sc belt. Loosen the bolt on the pulley, turn the setscrew on top a few times, retighten pulley bolt.

FrankEtier 10-05-2022 05:24 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by HapaZ (Post 4030487)
Anyone else have belt squeal only during startup? When I’m warm and driving around I have no issue with it.
Very slight but I tightened belt as mentioned and it went away.

HapaZ 10-06-2022 03:47 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankEtier (Post 4030587)
Very slight but I tightened belt as mentioned and it went away.
Cool, worked for me as well. I thought it was odd that it would only happen when cold and didn't think to tighten. All's good now. Temps are also under control with a vented hood.

Sr20dehauler 10-31-2022 03:21 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimG37X (Post 4029951)
I have 2012 G37X and can confirm that NO hood pins are needed. Clearance is tight but fits. It is key to have the offset coupler orientated correctly
Do you have a coupe or a sedan? I'm wondering if this would fit under the hood of a G37 S 6MT Sedan?

TopgunZ 11-01-2022 09:39 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sr20dehauler (Post 4031573)
Do you have a coupe or a sedan? I'm wondering if this would fit under the hood of a G37 S 6MT Sedan?
Yes it will fit a Sedan. We used a Sedan when we fit it up and came up with the solution to not having hood pins.

14Q60awdSPORT 04-27-2023 09:29 AM
with ecutek change not allowing repurpose of evap, how will new installs or re-tunes control boost, is something like the Innovate SCG-1 the only way now?

Elmo370z 04-27-2023 10:19 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 14Q60awdSPORT (Post 4038808)
with ecutek change not allowing repurpose of evap, how will new installs or re-tunes control boost, is something like the Innovate SCG-1 the only way now?
Don’t update it

cgr406 05-07-2023 01:01 PM
1 Attachment(s)
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement coolant reservoir? Mine is not sealing properly... coolant is routinely draining out of the overflow tube above the seal. Hopefully it's just a problem w/ the reservoir & not something internal that is generating too much pressure. Replacing the reservoir is certainly the cheapest / easiest thing to try. I've reached out to Aaron several time w/out any response, so that's why I'm asking here. Thanks in advance.

The_Pappa_Rob 05-08-2023 10:57 AM
Haven't seen much activity here lately, but it's worth a shot. I was thinking of pulling the trigger, but I rent and don't have the room, or the patience to do an install. Any shops in the Phoenix AZ area? I'm in Tempe.

ByThaBay 05-08-2023 11:05 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Pappa_Rob (Post 4039537)
Haven't seen much activity here lately, but it's worth a shot. I was thinking of pulling the trigger, but I rent and don't have the room, or the patience to do an install. Any shops in the Phoenix AZ area? I'm in Tempe.
Reach out to btwtuning.com they are in AZ now.

The_Pappa_Rob 05-08-2023 11:35 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ByThaBay (Post 4039540)
Reach out to btwtuning.com they are in AZ now.
Awesome, thanks!!

TopgunZ 05-11-2023 07:19 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Pappa_Rob (Post 4039537)
Haven't seen much activity here lately, but it's worth a shot. I was thinking of pulling the trigger, but I rent and don't have the room, or the patience to do an install. Any shops in the Phoenix AZ area? I'm in Tempe.
Thats because the forums are dying. The mods are barely active. Just take a look at the dumbass tags in this thread near the bottom of the page. I have had them clean it up about 6 times and its pointless as they just delete them and do nothing about it after that.

Mr.K 05-19-2023 01:19 PM
Z1 just released their rotrex supercharger kit and although the fit and finish looks amazing, I can't really comment on their numbers. At 10psi they require E85 to push 395wtq, the Topgunz kit can easily push 450wtq at 10 psi on 91/93 fuel. The Topgunz kit is superior in that regard, I'm not sure if they were more conservative to get it CARB approved in the future but it seems to be track tested so cooling appears to be dialed in.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/superc...b44c1df4d30a20

Spooler 05-19-2023 04:00 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.K (Post 4039923)
Z1 just released their rotrex supercharger kit and although the fit and finish looks amazing, I can't really comment on their numbers. At 10psi they require E85 to push 395wtq, the Topgunz kit can easily push 450wtq at 10 psi on 91/93 fuel. The Topgunz kit is superior in that regard, I'm not sure if they were more conservative to get it CARB approved in the future but it seems to be track tested so cooling appears to be dialed in.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/superc...b44c1df4d30a20
Z1 and SOHO are just copy cats. End of story.


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