Does anyone know if the Fast Intentions bar will fit this kit? I saw it did with the old A2A kit.

I got my car back a couple of weeks ago but I've been away on vacation, so haven't had time to post an update...

In summary, the car runs really great (and sounds amazing) but we had to limit ourselves to 480 whp due to me being on stock tyres. Even with just 480 whp the traction control light flashes now and then on full throttle even i fourth gear (dry surface; highway).

Once I find time (well, money) to upgrade wheels and rubber, we'll bump the power up. Possibly next summer.

However, I have one major issue. Start issues. The engine REALLY struggles to fire. Especially when cold.

My tuner (one local to me here in Sweden) is having a hard time improving it. I have a feeling it could be related to injectors/fueling, but I'm no expert whatsoever. The car had zero issues before the kit got installed alongside Injector Dynamics 1050cc and other supporting mods.

It really, really pains me to start it up. Here's a clip of it. Just before I shot this clip, I attempted another start which I cancelled after 8 seconds by pressing the start button again. It just wouldn't fire up. The second attempt is usually successful but only if I help a little by blipping the throttle. If I don't to this, it'll die right after it fires.



Any ideas? Is this a common issue with large injectors?

Did you upgrade your fuel pump?

Looks like fuel issue to me, either hardware or bad tuning.
I would start checking fuel pressure during start

Yes, a Walbro 450.

I'm leaning towards the tune and so is the tuner. Ecutek is being used, but the tuner doesn't have all that much experience with the combination of 370z FI and Ecutek, so I'm confident there's room for improvements in some areas of the map file.

But, yeah, I'll look into monitoring the fuel pressure during start-up.

Tune

If your tuner says he doesn't have plenty of experience with it, its very honest of him but I would not risk the engine and get a known well reputable tuner.
The tune is what makes your engine last long or last a few pulls.

I suggest asking Aaron from topgunz speedworks for a tuner recommendation experienced with his forced induction kit, Im pretty sure he will put you in contact with the best ecutek tuner and most experienced with 370z

Also, again, it's important to make sure that fuel pressure is on spec, not only while cranking up but also while building boost.

I'm sure Aaron would recommend Eugene Turkov which would be the right choice

Thanks for your input, guys. And yeah, I honestly thought that my local tuner had already had a collaboration going with Topgun and someone like Eugene when my local tuner did the mapping for my car on their dyno, but no. Too bad, because it doesn't make any sense to me to not use that option (someone with prior experience with this particular setup).

A couple of clips from today. It actually starts much quicker today, but still rough and it will 100% die, if I don't blip the throttle at the right time.

The only thing I can thinks of that is different today is a much cooler ambient temp (16C/61F) compared to the previous weeks where it was around 25C/77F or more when I previous tested starting up the car.

I have a fuel return system. Not sure if that is why the fuel system doesn't maintain pressure when I go from ACC to ON. It quickly jumps to 50ish psi and then immediately drops to 0 again.

Cold engine (car had been sitting for a few days):



Warm engine (75C/167F - drive around a little and parked it for 10 minutes prior to firing it up again):



Pressure seems a bit low in the second video clip (warm idle), does it not?

Yep you need Eugene, my car is still on a base tune and it fires up immediately every time.

Do you have a check valve in your RFS? I had to add one to my cjm rfs. Installed it at the in line filter.

Your fuel pump most likely already had one

I think there's something wrong with your fuel system, possibly an internal leak in the fuel pump, because if you from on to off, the fuel pressure can't drop immediately to zero.
In my car it drops slowly, and in about one or two hours it reaches 0 PSi

Pressure is too low, at idle you should have 52 psi +-1 if I remember correctly.

I was told the dw 440 brushless doesn't have one.

I'd go with what Aaron has to say, but one other thing to consider is your battery. I had a longer than typical start on my original battery from 2011, but replacing it with a new one improved cold starts for me.

So, with the New Rotrex kit now installed along with upgraded 1340cc injectors we are only seeing 550whp @14 psi which is the same thing we saw with the previous kit. Car is still in the shop at RT Tuning. They have been in contact with Aaron so we'll see how it goes going forward. I was also told anything above 600whp on 93 might see some detonation. My goal was 625wph to 650hp on max boost but if we can't get there, I may be looking into methanol injection. If anybody has any thoughts or suggestions, I'm all ears. Thanks!

Use E85, it's much safer, burns cooler, yields more power and in a safer way.

You need the sensor. I am using Zeitronix kit from SpecialtyZ, call them or email so they can send you the correct parts for your setup.

E85 stations

Not readily available in NJ.

Should of went with a turbo if you’re expecting those number out of a blower using pump gas.

Yeah, you are limited.

https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethano...n=New%20Jersey

I am also planning to eventually bump the power to around 625 - or at the very least 600 - using pump gas. Top Gun mentions on their website that this should be possible with the kit, so fingers crossed...

I do have E85 at a few stations near me, so I might go down that road in the future if need be.

Unfortunately, E85 is not readily available in my area.

Best of luck to you! I have every supporting mod required and we were limited to approximately 570whp at 16 psi, hence why I am adding the methanol injection.

That sucks. I made 585whp at 12psi with turbos. I didn't even push it though because it is 93oct.

What is the tuner saying the limitation is on your car?

The lack of a twin turbo kit.

From my understanding, they can't get any more than 16psi and mentioned a fear of knock with anything over 600whp. Not sure if my tuner is afraid to bring it up more or if this kit just doesn't live up to the hype. I'm definitely not worried about pushing the limits.

I run 17psi on pump 92 with no ignition correction, it's fine but you have to retard the timing so much that the car honestly feels like **** regardless. If I recall right at WOT it runs 8 degrees of timing and that's it.

I also contemplated meth injection as well but there was so many cons to running it I didn't want to deal with that, so I had a 55 gallon drum of e85 delivered instead as there's zero locally available e85 stations.

Aside from the cost of initial setup, and having another fluid to occasionally fill up.
A proper WMI setup has no cons.

Are you using a Wastegate setup or trying to control boost with Ecutek and the BOV?

You are just on the wrong fuel. E85 is how folks get the power, even on turbo cars.

That’s lot of boost for 570whp.

Ecutek and the BOV

It's because the timing is retarded due to the fuel. 16 psi on E85 should be around 700whp on a turbo car.

People chasing numbers on pump gas with these small displacement motors.

Mine made 745 on e85 @16psi

Just had a friend buy this kit and install it himself and I ended up tuning it.

Honestly a great kit out of the box for someone who wants to use E85 otherwise you'll need to add a wastegate to the chargepipe coming out of the blower so you can limit boost.
Using the BOV and a mac valve sucks and it's not the proper way.

Aside from that, the newest kit (received a few weeks ago) only makes about 14~ psi uptop with the bumper on. That translates to around 550whp on 93 with really high EGTs and a little over 600whp on E85. Taking off the front bumper will raise boost by about 2-3 psi and add another 20-30 whp.

One big concern I saw is that installing the kit without modifying the front bumper to increase the airflow will make the engine overheat. We got the car to get to 230F coolant temps doing a 0-120 mph pull. Coolant is bled properly and there's no issues there. If you remove the bumper, the temps stay at a constant 190F which indiciates that there's way too much heat being generated.

On my 92 pump tune I have zero problems making, and holding about 10.5-11psi with zero creep on the BOV/MAC, And 13psi with zero creep on my E40 tune which is used 99.9% of the time after tuning the 92 pump tune. The BOV was loud when off throttle and at 2.5k+ rpm, so I made a silencer can’t even hear BOV now except immediately off throttle at high rpm, and also routes the air opposite side of filter, possibly helps temps overall not dumping hot charge air all over everything

I have a g37 so a little different possibly but I got a 90 degree elbow and routed the filter behind the front grill right above the intercooler. l get all that direct cool air.
I have zero IAT/charge temp/heat soak issues, coolant issues etc… doing multiple high speed pulls back to back in hot weather.

Unfortunately, E85 is not readily available in my area.

Strongly disagree. You have two choices with water/meth injection

1) Use it as a safety. Tune the car for max "safe" timing on your normal fuel and use water/meth as basically an additive to negate any possible knock and reduce IAT's. Marginal if any increase in power. Car does not depend on it and the system can fail without any real downsides.

2) Use it as a power adder. Timing is increased beyond the normal limits of your pump gas knock rating. Now you've introduced multiple failure points in which can compromise your engine if there was a problem. The wiring can fail, the pump can fail, the nozzle can clog, you can run out of the water/meth mix, etc

None of this even includes the fact that methanol by nature is very corrosive. Yes, the water mix dilutes it and helps, but does not completely eliminate the inherent nature of methanol. Everything downstream after extended use is at risk. Seals, electronics (MAF/Sensors), hell it even eats aluminum too. Now, while there is "probably" going to be a negligible effect over the lifetime of the engine IF using a proper water/meth mix and only activating in boost, is it worth it? I don't think so. Just use ethanol lol.