That's what I had too. My Aragosta coilovers are better. I may have to play with different springs and settings.

I am about .5" less than stock ride height since my corner balance and my suspension is actual pretty loose now compared to the NISMO suspension.

I am wondering if pulling the rear sway bar would help any...

They are stiffer, 9 - 9.5kg/mm on the rear and the shocks are horribly over damped.

right! feel like a go kart :shakes head:

It was good, but I need my kidney's to work. LOL

I think the -1.9 camber is killing me more than spring rate and travel right now. I might lighten up the shock rate as well (by a couple clicks) on the front and rear to get a little more transfer.

Rear sway bar I dont imagine making any measurable difference, I dont see how it prevents transferring weight rearward.

Getting the car to hook is going to be a compromise just like everything else. You can workaround anything and the car will complete the 1/4 mile.. but whatever you leave on the table will remain left on the table.

Its not helping but I have been there and gone to 0 and while it helps a little its not all youd hope for.

Time to hit the classifieds ;)

:iagree:

I had an 0.033 light and my new friend in the Supra ran a 9.022 :ugh2:

This was my last run. 12.4 @122 .....2.19 second 60 foot

I apologize for the thread jack. Charles, this is your old style oil pan isn't it?

I will have to look up the sport rear spring rates and then buy some 7in. Swifts springs for the rear if I want to pursue this.

Here they are.

OEM Stock Springs........................................... ....... ...........................FRONT: 7.5K REAR: 8.0K

OEM Nismo Springs........................................... ....... ...........................FRONT: 8.1K REAR: 9.1K

Im not a suspension guru so I am not extremely familiar with spring rates. But I do know youll want to find out if that rate is before or after the motion ratio if you intend to replace with universal springs. That detail might be obvious to someone who thinks about spring rates more often than I do.

One of the things I used to play with was the dampening on the shocks when I was drag racing. On the front. Soften your rebound all the way. Stiffen your compression all the way. This will let the front jump up and hold it there. On the rear. Set both compression and rebound in the mid. Play around with the compression to set your squat. Too much squat, stiffen the compression. Too little, soften the compression.

So, is everyone changing out the restrictor on the clutch line? as seen in this thread?

:wtf2:

www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/15959-370z-clutch-line-restriction.html

~

Ive never touched that personally

That was the only info I could find about it on the ENTIRE INTERNET !!!

:rofl2::rofl2:

Most just get a new line and delete the restrictor.

Doesn't the RJM master cylinder kit runs a new stainless line from the master cylinder to the CSC?

https://www.rjmperformance.com/uploa...30549_orig.jpg


looks like it's just long enough to run from the factory hard line to the csc from the pic.

I wonder if that restrictor id causing my slowish 1-2nd shifts since my clutch replacement.

Well I got the clutch out tonight. New clutch comes in the mail tomorrow, so I will be putting it back together tomorrow and Thursday night.

Can anyone identify this old clutch?

We got the clutch installed, Fuel pump relay installed and the SPC toe bolts installed (set the rear at -0.5 degree camber) in time for the Baton Rouge Import Face Off.

After some test passes and set up changes we go the 60 foot down to 2.1 seconds on this run, but broke something as well.

That win put us in the semi finals but we had to forfeit due to engine issues

I will update this when we figure out what we broke.

Nice meeting you yesterday dude, sorry it didn't end on a good note though.

Same, we had a good time! Hopefully I will have the car back together for the next IFO at No Problem raceway. Might even be a built motor depending on the extent of the damage :inoutroflpuke:

Well my number 4 cylinder has oil in it. The plug is black and full of oil and the top of the piston is dark and has oil on it. The #2 and #6 plug tubes had oil in them but not inside the cylinder.
I had to order another compression tester with an M12 fitting for my plug size. That comes in Thursday night. So I will check the compression then.

Not sure what I will find when testing but #4 seems to be the problem.

Looks like a blown piston ring. I dont know what your plans are when this is the case regarding building the block. It might be an idea not to run/turn over anymore to limit further damage and take off the oil pan for inspection for debris?

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Eek, hope you can get it back going in a timely manner! What happened at the track that resulted in that? Smoke noise etc?

It just started smoking on that last run, then pooring smoke out of the PCV system. No other issues.

Ah i see, how much boost were you running?

14psi on e85 he said

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I heard it pop and then dump some smoke at the last shift point. I don't know if you were using flat foot shifting, hit the rev limiter, or what happened. That appears to be when the damage was done. I suspect broken ring or ring land.

Broken ring or land. If the cylinder didn't score. You got lucky.

I was using flat foot shifting and missed a gear. But it was smoking before that as well. Maybe that finished it off. :wtf2:

Not sure.....

I am starting to get skeptical of flat foot shifting and bouncing the rev limiter in general. I am thinking that is where my issue came up this weekend. I had not problems until running it hard this weekend. It seemed like i was on the rev limiter a lot trying to flat foot shift it and doing my burnouts pedal to the floor.

Well if it did..... What are my options? bore, sleeve, or new block? or can you not bore these engines?

I haven't started looking into it yet. But will be starting this week.

I think the answer is "it depends". Do you want to reliably run 14 psi, or do you want to bump that up to 18-20 psi?

I think a light engine build involves new bearings, rods, 0.020" oversize pistons with lower compression. Most weak points should be tackled for a reliable 14 psi.

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If I have to rebuild this motor I want the ability to make it to 850-1000 HP. So what ever build get me there. I told my everyone that if I blew this motor....I wanted to hit 1,000 HP.

I will have to pay off what ever motor build we do before stretching my turbo set up to make 1,000 HP. But I want the ability to push the engine that hard in the future.

I don't mind spending the money, I just want it done right.

What are the common thoughts on this?
https://www.importpartspro.com/stage...initi-g37.html
I would be looking at rougly $5,000 worth of parts for this build. Plus machine shop work

Build a motor or buy a built motor? I have the ability to build a motor but not sure I have the shops around here to do the machine work and thinks that I do not have the tools for.

Going to need some advise and thoughts on this.

~

Well, you are in a pickle. You don't have enough turbo or fuel for 1000hp. You may be able to get to around 700-750hp with what you have. You will need more fuel. IPP doesn't have the best reputation. Whatever way you go you will be in a 8-12 month wait on a built motor.

I look at your selection. Very few people drop the compression to 9.5:1. You loose too much VE. Most folks go 11:1 or 10.5:1 compression. You would also need to look at going with a closed deck block if you want greater than 800hp. I would also suggest a suckerpunch oil pump upgrade or the like.

I know I don't have the turbo set up now, that's why I said I would get to that after the engine build.

I just want the engine internals to be able to handle it when im ready.

Is anyone selling the closed deck blocks anymore? I cant seem to find anyone.