A huge no no On boosted cars if you’re not on a stand-alone

According to my tuner (Moncef @ Admin Tuning) flat foot shifting was enabled thru ECUTEK and I was fine for pedal to the floor burnouts.

I have my doubts on all of that....

Making a 1000hp wheel? You run into head gasket issues and your ecu is will be close to maxing out. Like spooler said if you go to a reputable shop you will be on a long waiting list, just the way to cookie crumbles. I would suggest spec’n out a set of custom pistons and rods. I’ve seen a lot of blown motors with people and companies trying to build high HP z’s only a few have succeeded

That was my burnout before that last race

So I might have to go the 800 HP max route for now. I am not going to wait a year. lol

I need to fix up this engine and maybe start a build separate for the 1,000 HP goal. So I guess I will be looking to max this BP kit out for now about 18-20 PSI and make as much HP as I can.

What are you guys' thought on build for that goal?
E85
18-20 PSI
BP kit
700-800 HP

~

Yeap, Motec guy told me DO NOT use flat foot shifting because it creates cylinder pressure spikes the way ECUTECK implemented it.

You will need a CJ Motorsports dual fuel pump setup and at least ID1300cc injectors. Not sure on how much the turbo can make, it will be close.

You can look at my build thread and see what I did. Good luck. Only 3 shops that I know of have built 800+hp cars that lived.

I’ll give you a list of tuners. Specialty Z (Seb the best state side), Dynosty (Hal), SoHo (nik), folks at R/T tuning, and black box tuning. Not trying to sound like a prick, but these would be the only one tuning my car. Spooler has no issues with his 800 whp Z, Seb has no issues with his 900whp, Cjm’s car didn’t have issues with his 9 second 800whp Z, and currently has a 1069whp Z tuning done by Seb. Your flat foot shifting greatly
Increased crank case pressure and really put a strain on your HG’s

Look at spoolers thread. My build will be similar to his.

1300 will be fine. That’s what I’m
Running and what Charles used to make
Over 800

Yeah, don't get ID1700 because on 93 pump gas I can get some funky idle. E85 I am golden.

That motor you spec'd from IPP will be good for 800hp. Not sure if it can do more. I know Solidius has one and it is doing good at that hp level. I am not sure how long they take. Maybe you can PM him on here.

Might be cheaper to buy a used motor while you build that one ....you could find one for about 2k

Or you could try this place https://www.importpartspro.com/vq37-...-packages.html

OP I have an IPP stage 2 build. The only drawback would be the same as any other builder. It'll take 3 months. What I did was I got a low mileage motor cheap and installed it while I stacked dollars. I was at 710rwhp on my build at 18psi and that was with a boost leak and a cracked turbo manifold. I have a 21psi map I haven't dynoed yet but it held up fine to a 27.8psi boost spike on a fuel cut. I run ID1300s but I wish I had gone 150p. Also I run twin 450s in a surge tank. 10:1 compression ,6870 turbo with 1.32ar, C2 cams , Full L19, Cometic gaskets soft remote tune from Seb because he realized I was an extremist. I'm pretty sure with the manifold and boost leak fixed I'm over the 710 and I think the 21psi map should have me damned close to 800 but I had to have Seb tweak map 4 due to the duty cycle of the solenoid set too high making map 4 unusable. Any questions hit me up. ( If thinking of the turbo size and upgrade I'd go Comp if I did it over but equal to the 6870.)

You should hit up logan over at dynosty for your engine build, it shouldnt take a year and it will be done right the first time, they made 768whp on their nismo with a bp kit with a huge turbo now the car is built making over 1000 but with a twin kit.

BTW HOW DID THE FLAT FOOT SHIFTING FEEL WHEN DOING IT WITH BOOST? MINIMAL LAG FELT LIKE IT PULLED BETTER BETWEEN GEARS?

IM ON 14PSI WITH A TOP MOUNT SINGLE RIGHT NOW AND NOT IF BUT WHEN MY MOTOR GOES I WILL REACHING OUT TO DYNOSTY NO DOUT!

I have the 1300 Id already. Just need the dual pump.

Well flat foot 1st to 2nd was useless! It would just stay on the rev limiter and never stop spinning. 2nd to 3rd was a little better but spun the tires almost the entire gear and bounce off the rev limiter. 3rd to 4th was good, it would chirp the tires but hook up.

Dang thats crazy!

Sounds like you were over driving the car. I came from an era of no rev limiter or nannies. If you bumped up against redline back in the day you may loose the motor. Rev limiters are supposed to be used to save you when you make a mistake, not to drive on top of them. Adam LZ on youtube comes to mind. He breaks everything because he over drives his cars and doesn't understand the limit of his equipment. If you fix you motor and drive like this again you will just loose another engine.

Damn, now im scared to ffs with my car! Dang it!

Do what????? ffs?????

Flat foot shifting

Hey Guys, If I buy a used EBAY engine to get me going for now.....

Do I need the donor to have had a manual trans engine to match mine? (what is different?)

What else should look for?

Think I will do this while building another engine.

~

I don't think so. You may have to install a pilot bushing. That's it.

Here's a listing for a part out of a manual z on facebook.

Here's one from their website.

I would honestly think over building something above 800 horsepower. It's just... so much work. And so much of other things you need to install, and then reliability is rare. Its gonna take time.

If I were in the US (used motors are still 8k here), I'd buy a used motor, refresh bearings and just put in eagle rods and 10:1 forged pistons, perhaps some arp headstuds and a good gasket. Call it a day and just drive it on 14-15 psi ending up spending 5k ish.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Study up on how to set the VVEL sensor and disassemble it. That way you don't make any mistakes.

Hit me up when you are ready to disassemble the heads.

Got to give Spooler props on putting a 800hp engine together, and making it live. :tup: Text book.

LOL, The Machine shop did it and MA-Motorsports did all the heavy lifting for me. You know I didn't. I wanted to do it but my body said other wise. So if you are saying pay a top tier shop that has done it before to do it for an excellent price, Yes I concur.

You did the research, put together the parts list, told them what you wanted, and wrote the check.

3 to 4 years of reading and researching. Yeah, I obsessed over it just a touch. Not a single 1000hp engine that were reliable has been built. A couple have been built recently, too early to tell on those.

Just no one is interested in messing around or building vvel heads

if you buy a used engine i would buy a newer one that has had the oil galley gasket revision, i cant remember the year 2012, 2013?

2012, some are delivered late 2011 as well.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Hows life here? Whats gonna be your rebuilding strategy?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

I hope he rebuilds it. Many people have thrown in the towel at this stage. Making a Boosted Z reliable is actually very challenging. You can't skimp or you will pay the price later.

EVeryone takes to the cheaper shop instead of the right shop.