Id advise getting a harder transmission mount in there when running solid engine mounts. Maybe not solid because of the noise. But you want to get transmission movement reduced. The transmission and engine are an assembly, and one does not move without the other coming along. When the tail of your transmission wags around, SOMETHING up front is flexing to accommodate that. If the engine mounts are solid, we can only scratch our heads and wonder what is distorting when the tail of the trans is putting leverage on the powertrain. Nevermind that I am a big hypocrite and ran solid engine with stock trans mount for a long time.

I forgot to put that in my build sheet :ugh2:. We did put the Z1 urethane trans mount as well

I purchased the Kenetics camper arms, traction arms and front upper control arms. Also the front and rear sway bar adjustable links. All coming in next week!

Working on installing Phunk's S1-SE (CJM) fuel system this week while waiting on Powdercoat! fuel pump coming out tonight.

If you dont have the ZIP file of pictures showing the intended layout, shoot me an email to the address on the website and I will send it over.

Well, my fuel pump hat is broken! surprise surprise....right.... But here is the weird think. One of the rods was broken when I took it out an I cannot find the spring, spacer or retainer clip :icon14: WTF!! Unless there is a spot that I cannot feel in the tank.

I have been fixing all the jimmy rigged stuff on my Z since I bought it, but... this is BS, if someone put a fuel pump back in with one rod holding it! :eek:

I guess I will have to buy an entire new assembly so I can get the parts and run that till it breaks again



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get the CJM top hat, you wont regret it.

This has been happening several times here :D

:iagree:

Ordered the billet top hat yesterday. Getting it Friday!

Thanks Charles for the quick shipping!

That should help ease your woes. :tup:

Finally got the fuel pump back in!

Can anyone tell me a good way to test the system? When i turn the ignition on it only gets the quick 1 or 2 second kick on. I do not show any pressure on my gauge.


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once you get ecutek and the bt app for your phone or tablet you can turn the car to on and power fuel pump through the app via on/off,besides just starting it with stock injectors not really sure the best way.

I have the Bluetooth dongle and the app. Didn't realize i could do that though. will check into it this afternoon.

you might have to flash the ecu first, not sure but once that is done just open up app select (my car) it will connect and then just go down to where it says fuel pump and click that.

I believe the fuel pump control via the app will work even without having flashed the car. That really is the best way. Otherwise you have 2 options... prime the system over and over, or start the engine and then adjust pressure. Its ideal to have 2 people, since aftermarket regulators do not hold set pressure once the pump is off, and you could never get to the engine bay gauge in time while its priming to see after turning the ignition on.

What I usually do if I am alone.. starting with the adjustment screw backed out to the point that it is not making any contact, I will thread it in by finger until I feel it touch down, then I will give it maybe 3-4 full rotations to bring the pressure setting up. Then I will sit in the car and prime it several times (you have to wait with key-off until the ECU turns off which takes a few seconds before you key back on or it will not re-prime). You will know when you have purged the air from the system and started to build pressure because the sound from the pump will change pitch in a very obvious way.

Then I will prime it a couple more times then go look for system leaks and see if there is any residual pressure on the gauge to give me any indication of roughly where I am set (some of these billet regulators are slower than others to lose pressure with pump off, they seem to have individual personalities in that way). I might bring up the pressure a little more and do some more prime and leak tests... but 99% of the time a leak is a leak and you dont need to get the pressure any higher before you can find it.

Once I am positive I am leak free I will put the intake manifold back on and get everything ready to fire up. I have the adjustment nut off the regulator and my hex key ready to adjust it. I fire up the engine and walk right up to the regulator and 3-4 seconds later I have the pressure dialed in to where I want it, and I put the lock nut back on.

Thanks for the info C, just to make sure.... the bottom port of the regulator comes from the fuel pump, the side port on the regulator goes into the fuel rail, fuel rails connect in the front and the other fuel rail goes to the return....correct?

Bottom port of regulator goes to the factory hard pipe feed line for return, side port goes to rails and the new feed line goes to the other side of the rails

No that wont go over well. Its somewhat open for interpretation but the lengths of the hoses will only accommodate a few ways. But you do have the regulator connections setup in a non-functional manor. The side ports are pressure side, and the bottom port is the outlet.

To connect as we intend: The hose leaving the pump and then filter feeds the rear of the passenger side rail. The hose leaving the rear of the driver side rail feeds the input (side port) of regulator. The hose leaving the bottom of the regulator connects to the stock feed pipe, using this original feed pipe as the return line.

I was thinking the regulator had to be after the fuel rail. I hooked it up the wrong way interpreting the pics :inoutroflpuke:.

Oh I forgot, there is another trick for setting the fuel pressure off just priming when alone. I have done this a couple times. I just set my cell phone up to record a video of the pressure gauge when im priming it. Then I can see what it was and take a stab at an adjustment and within a minute or two youll have it dialed in.

The ECUtec app did have the fuel pump off/on button so I turned the pump on for about 10 minutes and inspected all the fittings. Turned out all good. So moving on now.

Good news.

+1 Good news indeed and congratulations on your progress so far.

Installed the camber arms, toe arms and sway bar end links.

Made a quick aluminum bracket to mount the MAC boost solenoid. Love a factory look!

Any more progress?

She is alive!!!:pics:

We started it up this past Sunday. Runs terrible with zero remapping done. But I will be bringing it to Admin Tuning in Houston next week for the tune! Trying to get the appointment rescheduled as Moncef can't make our original appointment for Monday, due to personal issues.


We are working on putting the front end back together this weekend. Stopped to take my headlights apart and paint the chrome. Have them back together now and at a shop getting ceramic coated.

Got the headlights back from Cleaner Image freshly ceramic coated. Just have to install them, put the fascia on, and load the Z up tonight.

Leaving for Admin Tuning at 04:00 tomorrow!

628 HP
511 TQ
On E85 at 14 PSI
:ughdance::happydance:



https://youtu.be/_ttKayTaEx0




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If someone can tell me how, I will put the video in a pop up box on the post. I can't figure it out for some reason

Going to need some clutch recommendations as well. The clutch kept letting go while dynoing. We could have made more power as we are on a very conservative tune. Just kept slipping the clutch.

What clutch is in it?

Contact Joe at Zspeed. Such a relief to do business with that guy. Quality products, he really knows his stuff and superb communication and customer service

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

I'll second that. He guided me to the southbend stage 3 for my turbo setup, and I see that on your OP - did you have that installed at the time of the dyno?

Will the Southbend stage 3 hold the power the op's build is making? I think they're rated at 530ft.lbs. to the crank.

Here's how to do it. :tiphat:

Nissan 370Z Forum - Announcements in Forum : Nissan 370Z General Discussions

I just sold a SpecialtyZ 6puck clutch kit that would have held it.

Congrats on the results! you also running 14psi on 93?

How much timing, if you dont mind sharing?

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Congratulations on the results. I had the Southbend Stage 3 Daily and then the Southbend Stage 3 Drag with upgraded pressure plate. The first Daily slipped past 550whp and the Drag slipped after a few hundred miles at 700whp. I ended up switching to the Clutchmasters FX850 Twin. I've been rebuilding my car for the past few years but it did hold for over a year and a few track events at 700whp. Unfortunately the headstuds didn't hold.. :owned: