Great work, and awesome results. Too bad the clutch is slipping. With E85, and 14psi, you could be close to 700whp.

I do not know, I bought the car used and it has something other than stock.

I will have to check on the timing. I know we are a few degrees lower than could be. Since we couldn't put the power past the clutch we kept everything conservative. We are fairly rich as well.

Well I pulled out the garage this morning to make a road test drive and it died and will not start.

Zero fuel pressure on the fuel return gauge and when I turn the pump on (via ECUTEC app) I cannot hear it and still no pressure.

Tank is FULL of E85 right now. :shakes head:

Checked all the fuses this morning, but couldn't find any that said fuel pump.

Will have to go trouble shoot it after work. Guess I will start with checking for power to the tophat.

Appologize if you have this already, I don't think i saw this in your parts list or if you left out since it's not too significant, but you need Fuel pump relay kit if you don't have it:

https://isteam.wsimg.com/ip/f3972d89...rs=w:600,h:600

I do not have a relay kit. So is the standard wiring is to small for the 450’s amperage?

Fuel pump is bad. I have power going to to it and nothing out of it. So I have another new one coming Saturday. Anyone had a new pump go out before the first road test?

The wiring is too small for that size pump and may cause further issues ...I did run a 340 pump with stock wiring for 8 months with no issues tho....but was paranoid about it and added the wiring upgrade

Correct, stock wiring cant handle the power required. I've seen some pics of people who melted the wiring or at very least suffered from voltage drop probably at most inopportune times.

Any other way to get power to the pump than straight from the battery? I hate having a bunch of wires coming straight off the battery!

I can make this kit myself. We own an auto parts store and relays and wiring are no problem. lol

That is pretty wild that the pump is already bad. I have not seen that from the 450s. The 255s didn't have the best reputation.. but the 450s, so far from what I have seen, have been very reliable. I have tried to deal with Walbros warranty before and discovered that they do not really honor it.

The relay kit will be a good idea. The stock wiring gets incredible hot to the touch running that pump... I know because I did it for a long time (made 670+ whp and ran 11.2s with a 450 on stock wiring). Its not ideal and it definitely needs to be upgraded but it would be odd for the stock wiring to prevent you from getting out of the driveway the first time. If you tried connecting the pump directly and it doesnt spin, I think you just got a dud.

That sucks to hear about their warranty. I work in the dealership service industry and warranty is never an issue. Even with Autozone, Napa, etc their warranties usually cover most parts. I'm in the process of upgrading my fuel pump and injectors and will keep this in mind.

that wiring kit looks like it could be made pretty easily TBH

From where the fuel pump is located, i don't think so at least nothing i would depend on for something so critical that can damage my engine.

It's a straight shot down the passenger side through the firewall with a already nicely placed oversized grommet opening right near the battery. If you loom it right along the existing cables you won't even notice there.

I managed to feed 1/0 cable through there for the stereo so there's plenty of room.

Made our first road test Sunday morning and :eek: was it fun! 600+ HP on these cars = wild street fun for sure.

I dropped it off yesterday at the race shop for corner weight balancing and alignment. Hopefully I will have it back early this week and make it to the track for some testing.

what was the issue?

I installed adjustable camber arms, toe arms, end links, upper control arms and coil overs. So everything is out of wack :rofl2:.

I think he might have meant fuel wise. Was it just a bad fuel pump?

Oh LOL.
Yep, swapped the pump and she fired right up. :confused:

So....Went pick up the car from the race shop yesterday and I need to add more parts to the list!

We could only achieve -1.9 degree of camber on the rears due to the spring bucket adjustment only being an eccentric bolt. So, I will need mid- links or a true type coil over set up in the future to reach the 0 degree camber set up that I am looking for.

Also, I tried a full power run on the street and the clutch will not hold a high rev shift. I already knew that I would have to replace it. But now, I don't think I can pull any good 1/4 mile runs at all with this clutch. (might go easy shift it at this import event next month just to go)

Bad news, I have to pay off this trailer and some parts before I can move on to these new developments. SO.... I will have to drive it "as is" for a few months :shakes head: and be satisfied.

And you want to fix your fuel pump wiring asap. Nobody wants sudden lean AFR'S at a 14 psi pull...

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Doesnt the spring bucket adjust toe? Do you have camber arms or have spc toe bolts those should get you where you want to be.

Yes but I can only get -1.9 camber while maintaining zero toe due to running out of toe adjustment on the spring bucket

Here is my gauge set up.

ECUTEK Dashboards?

yep

You should throw a background with some lighting effect it and labels. It would look sweet integrated how you have your screen. I really want to do that to mine, but i like using the Ipod features on the factory nav screen and having my gauges open below.

What you do is create a background and lay the gauges over it. I found it easier to take a screen capture of my gauge screen to use as my guide for the background. Align all the static labels to the gauges. Your background should look like this:

https://niurwq.bn.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

https://nsurwq.bn.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

https://rnlwhg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Yup that is a great idea. I will have to play with it!

[QUOTE=The Weapon;3885949]You should throw a background with some lighting effect it and labels. It would look sweet integrated how you have your screen. I really want to do that to mine, but i like using the Ipod features on the factory nav screen and having my gauges open below.

What you do is create a background and lay the gauges over it. I found it easier to take a screen capture of my gauge screen to use as my guide for the background. Align all the static labels to the gauges. Your background should look like this:

Any good suggestions on what program could I use to create a back ground like that?

I like to use Adobe Illustrator, but you can probably do it in Photoshop. Illustrator can be a pain to use if are you not familiar with it.

Well Test and Tune night at the track showed me some week links.

1. Clutch lets go if I don't let it cool down forever, if I make full power shifts it blows out too! Had to let out the pedal all the way, release the boost and build it back up with every shift. *****Solution***** have a SPEC twin disc coming in Wednesday and will be swapping it out before this weekends Import Face Off.

2. Traction! Always an issue no matter the power level it seems! the 305 R888r's would not hook up on the cold track (partly my fault for not getting a good burn out). Roasts the tires through 1st, 2nd, and into 3rd most of the time, with 1st being all but useless. My best 60 foot was 2.15 and that when I didn't stage it to build boost (that time was 12.4 @ 121 MPH late in the night). I will need a dedicated drag racing set up and some slicks in the future.

3. Suspension needs work! mostly the camber issue

Hopefully I can put up some better numbers this coming weekend at the IFO.

Sitting at:

12.38 @ 123.31

~

I don't recommend a SPEC clutch based on other member's experience with them :twocents:

Too late for that :rofl2:
"If he dies....he dies"

Just ordered some SPC toe bolts. I will try to get my camber to zero before the race this weekend as well

I love my ATS Triple Carbon clutch. Expensive but well worth every penny I paid for it.

Replace those coilovers with your stock parts before aligning it! Low center of gravity of high spring rates destroy your 60' times. Nobody wants to hear it, and almost nobody will make the change, but I have to at least say it!

SPL Midlinks makes changing back and forth a breeze. Change the springs and setup the car for 1/4 mile. Track day, change the springs, corner balance and redo the alignment. I am not sure if he is running these but I am. My coilovers can also go to stock ride height.

You'll end up wanting to change the shocks as well. Anything tuned for road course and handling is going to cost you traction. To run stock springs and shocks is probably the best compromise to maintain good handling and decent abilities to hook up the power.

Ya you can change back after the dragstrip if you dont want to hook up on the street.. but really on the street you need the help even more so. It all just depends on priorities.

Even the NISMO suspension? It was sooooooo stiff!

Ive never tried the NISMO stuff but its if any stiffer than standard issue 370z parts I would get some base model ones. I bet you can score it all for a couple hundred bucks since almost everyone on here changes it out.