Fast Intentions Stage 2 TT build by MA-Motorsports.

Mr.Squeeze · 12-01-2021, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wuero370z

Carbon z posted his car for sale with his turbo specs listed

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He's selling his car and doesn't even know what size turbos he has lol. He has it posted with twin 68mm turbos on Facebook and Instagram that's not even close to the correct size.

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Spooler · 12-01-2021, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeverBoneStck

Well ****. Thanks for letting me know.

That info is buried back in my thread somewhere. I thought the Mazworx setup would hold but it didn't the way he built my engine. I am tired of being the test mule. Whatever I do next time has to be proven. SOHO is the only one to have done that for now. I am sure Mark will get it.

Elmo370z · 12-01-2021, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

??? Would need to see pictures. If they are saying the sleeve is still moving, that is the same as what would happen with the VQ.

Cannot provide. He deleted it after showing me. If rjm doesn’t handle the situation in house I’m sure Fb will announce it

Elmo370z · 12-01-2021, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeverBoneStck

I actually purchased a RJM block. How is it failing??

Don’t know why you would ever purchase anything from rjm.

Spooler · 12-01-2021, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z

Cannot provide. He deleted it after showing me. If rjm doesn’t handle the situation in house I’m sure Fb will announce it

Protect the crook. LOL

NeverBoneStck · 12-01-2021, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z

Don’t know why you would ever purchase anything from rjm.

Had no clue there was issues

Spooler · 12-01-2021, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeverBoneStck

Had no clue there was issues

As long as it is not in the car you have a couple of choices on how you want to address it. If the engine is already machined and assembled just keep the boost turned down to around 800whp or lower depending on what other stuff you have done and what compression ratio you are running.

DrBacon · 12-01-2021, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

That info is buried back in my thread somewhere. I thought the Mazworx setup would hold but it didn't the way he built my engine. I am tired of being the test mule. Whatever I do next time has to be proven. SOHO is the only one to have done that for now. I am sure Mark will get it.

When they pull your engine apart out of curiosity ask them if the head studs were loose. I've seen it happen with plenty of arp lube and torqued to 95lbs after a couple hundred miles they loosen up, no one has been able to really give me a straight up answer as to why that happens. ARP claims you don't need to retorque them after the first heat cycle, and honestly very few people probably do considering the amount of work required to do so.

Spooler · 12-01-2021, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrBacon

When they pull your engine apart out of curiosity ask them if the head studs were loose. I've seen it happen with plenty of arp lube and torqued to 95lbs after a couple hundred miles they loosen up, no one has been able to really give me a straight up answer as to why that happens. ARP claims you don't need to retorque them after the first heat cycle, and honestly very few people probably do considering the amount of work required to do so.

Not sure what the torque setting of the headstuds were. I would think they were set higher than 95 ft/lbs. But that is info that is keep close by the builder. We won't know their process or their TQ settings. Not something that is given out.

Spooler · 12-01-2021, 09:21 PM

As far as me giving up any secrets. I won't do it. I paid for it. If you want that knowledge in your engine, you can do the same. Or you can do it as many times as it takes to get it right.

NeverBoneStck · 12-01-2021, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

As long as it is not in the car you have a couple of choices on how you want to address it. If the engine is already machined and assembled just keep the boost turned down to around 800whp or lower depending on what other stuff you have done and what compression ratio you are running.

Not in the car yet. Has been assembled. Not sleeved. Compression is 10.1

Spooler · 12-01-2021, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeverBoneStck

Not in the car yet. Has been assembled. Not sleeved. Compression is 10.1

What whp are you shooting for? That will determine if it will hold or not.

Elmo370z · 12-01-2021, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeverBoneStck

Had no clue there was issues

Google history will tell
You. Id sell that crap junk and buy a css.

NeverBoneStck · 12-01-2021, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spooler

what whp are you shooting for? That will determine if it will hold or not.

800

Spooler · 12-01-2021, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeverBoneStck

800

Pop a high-quality MLS on it and use ARP 625's. It will last for a while. That is right where the danger zone starts.

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12-01-2021, 09:21 PM	#4915 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,536 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684391	As far as me giving up any secrets. I won't do it. I paid for it. If you want that knowledge in your engine, you can do the same. Or you can do it as many times as it takes to get it right.