11:1 is where you want to be. I wouldn't build a 10:1 engine. No need to with the tuning/fuel we have today. That is old school thinking. Your rear gears are going to move the torque curve up. If you had the 3.69 gears it would be at 4000 rpm. A flat torque curve is what you want. You also have to note the mainline dyno is going to show lower than the dynojet that was used in the video. I think you are fine. Get it on the drag strip and see how it does. That is the real proof.

From my understanding the bigger the overlap the higher the back pressure, which should cause spool to be sooner.

I would put the more aggressive cams on the bigger turbo setup - meaning I would use the C2 Cams with the 3.5 Turbos.

Small turbine = less overlap. Large turbine = more overlap.

It all depends on where you want to move the power under the curve.

Spooler this is very interesting. You're pretty much talking about my build. I went 10:1 with the C2 cams and a bigger turbo. Still tuning it now with Seb but you're absolutely correct with the Cams helping with spool.The 6870 spools faster than the 6266 did by a long shot. Also if I WOT in 6th gear cruising 70 I'll hit 12psi before it hits 4500rpm. I had a problem with traction for 3rd gear WOT logs but switching to R888R's solved that in short order. Just moving on to E85 on Map 1 so pretty soon we'll see how it handles boost and E85. I don't think I'll be done tuning for a bit but as soon as I amI'll be throwing it on some rollers to see where it sits. I've guessed at 800rwhp but after feeling the hits ridiculous boost I'll be content with a 750 on corn and leave it where it sits.

Interesting reading these last posts from you guys ...
I've test driven the car twice now on local roads - When the motor was 10:1 with no cam the torque came on real quick and was flat out to red line. With only a little goose on the throttle and into 3rd gear it wanted to spin the huge M/T's.
It would have been nice if the motor held together.

With the MA-M 11:1 and the JW2 cams it didn't seem that 'touchy' on the throttle.
Both test drives didn't go WOT or over 40mph but I felt the power want to come on.
Brian at MA-M did a short test drive before handing the key over to me.
I heard him lean on it when he got it on to the street in front of the shop.
It sounded good but I didn't get to see it accelerate.

The 71/63's did spool quickly.

Got an email from MA-M today and they are anxious to finish up the build.
Waiting on the 6 point Roll Bar from RPM Rollbars.
Still planning to winter it down there since the weather gets ugly up here in N.J.
The car would only be sitting till spring anyway.

I am sure they are wanting to have it completed. I have had cars sit at the shop for a while myself and the day they leave is a good day. I was glad to see them up and running and on their way. My understanding is they have a lot less space as they did before.

I have experience with this playing with my 04' 5.9 Cummins dually. Swapping turbo's and trialing 2 different cams for Hamilton Cams. It is a little different but still the same.

True, the Z has a shorter wheel base so I can see why you're saying you'd want the spool to move.

Did you ever mention which Xonas you ended up getting?

They are the FI 2.5's. They are a GT30 frame turbo. I don't remember the Xona numbers off the top of my head. They are a custom Xona turbo.

Always good to have a little more headroom! :yum:

Now you're are talking about my concern with the 2.0 turbo's. I will post my thoughts on this tonight.

Good news, New turbo's are shipped to Fast Intentions. They just need to check them, clock the housing and will be shipping out. They need some FI luv and rubbing before sending out.

Interesting discussion in regards to the cams, can't wait to see your results.

It's got me thinking if I want to do the C2 for sure now on the stock GTR turbos. Not much information out there about GTR builds with cams and stock turbo's (installation costs are killer). Given that we are RWD moving the tq a little to the right wouldn't be a bad thing for grip.

While doing my research on the FI 2.0 turbos I looked high and low for dyno graphs with a built motor and 11:1 compression. I couldn't find any. It looked like SOHO push the FI Stage 2.0 the hardest on a stock block. From what I remember they were at 72x whp at 16psi of boost from what they posted. The best I can figure is that the FI 2.0 turbo's will fall off at 17 psi of boost. Now the question is why. Is the turbine housing of the GT28 frame turbo too restrictive or are they starting to push hot air on the compressor side. If I had to take a guess I would say it is the turbine side that just can't flow the exhaust gases out fast enough causing excessive drive pressure. There is a way to test this but nobody has done it. You can look at EGT pre turbo (drill the exhaust manifold before the turbo) to get a good idea or (you can drill a hole in the exhaust manifold before the turbo) take drive pressure readings. You can even do both. Here comes the issue. Testing is not cheap if you are not doing it yourself. So what I did was just look at Justin's build with the GT3076 turbo's. I picked a point on the dyno graph to look at boost pressure. I picked 4000rpm. The only problem with this is Seb was hold it back due to it being a stock block. Well, most of the FI 2.0 kits were on stock block so I decided the data would be close enough. I looked at the Boost psi at 4000rpm for several graphs. They all came up to be approximately 10 psi. What I don't like to do is push a turbo to it's max. Heat is the enemy and pushing it to the max will generate a ton of heat. I am not sure where the new FI 2.5 turbo's will start to fall off but I am sure MA will find out for me and let me know. I have a few more thoughts rattling around but this is the bulk of why I upgraded.

Figured you guys would enjoy this video on why you should use a Torque plate while boring and honing your cylinders. I have
always heard them called deck plates.

:iagree:
I'm surprised he didn't discuss bringing up to operating temp while performing procedures; especially honing.....as that's even simulating further.
I've alway's heard them called honing plates. :ugh2:

I have heard the same about heating the block up to operating temp. I have never seen it done.

My engine is on the stand. Assembly is starting. I do expect some delays because we are right at Christmas and New Years. Moving along now. Progress is a good thing.

I am thinking about having a 5 point rollbar installed again. Not sure if I will use a RPM unit or have MA build me one. This will take some more thought.

I had been waiting for MA-M (Brian) to schedule some time to build a custom roll bar for me but he won't be able to get to it until next winter - yep, next winter.
So I went with the RPM on Brian's recommendation - he said that they had installed a few of them and were good.
James at RPM advised me to go with the 6 point for a few good reasons.
Many of the 5 point customers wanted to upgrade to the 6 point after having them installed.
I can be done but it has to come back to the shop, put in a jig, and re welded.
The 6 point also gives more equal rigidity aiding in the launch.
So I got talked in to another upgrade :-)

I won't be drag racing unless it is for fun so a 5 point will work just fine for me. It's still a daily driver. If it was a race car, it would get a complete cage.

Very wise decision; as that is something on my wish list as well :tup:

I have had an RPM 4 point rollbar installed for four years. I got it from a young lady that used to frequent the forum for great price probably will have them send me the parts to go 6 point while my motor is being built.

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That's right, you have the 6 point tabs already welded to your bar on both sides.

I just got done reading every post from the start to where it is now. WOW, the build has changed so much along the way. Crazy. This has been one heck of a journey and it is not over yet.

Another Torque Plate/Deck plate honing video.

This is why I can’t get my car built, reading all this Devil stuff.

It's part of it. The waiting is the crazy hard part to deal with. It's not easy but this will give you an idea of what you are up against. For someone who comes in and thinks it will be a wham bam thank you mam this thread will be an eye opener. LOL

Actually, they are not there and will have to be added. Kind of a bummer but we will see.

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That's why I decided to go for the 6 point ... The side bars are removable leaving only the attachment docks making it a 4 or 5 point as needed.

Yup, my track buddy has that setup for his Camaro after I suggested it to him. I told him he need to watch a video of 1200whp zl1 Camaro lose control at 200 mph at a Shift Sector half mile event. The car got loose when the driver applied the brakes just after passing the finish line at just over 200 mph. The car rolled and the driver a passenger suffered no injuries even though the passenger was knocked unconscious during the rollover. He was like that is good enough for me!

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Are you going closed deck block?

Yep it is setting in my garage waiting for me to deliver it to Seb. He has ordered my pistons and rods from CP. I'm pretty sure all things will be very close to your build. Are you sticking with your stage 1 turbos?

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Yes, he has one. I am the only one that is taking his chances. LOL

A little VQ37 stroker crank machine work.

Does anybody know how our cars do on the high banks of Daytona. I really want to do a track day there. Do we need a dry sump to pull it off safely?

I have done NASCAR #1 at Auto Club and the high bank straight heading into it at 140 plus with no issues.

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Mike has done Daytona. He broke a wing there I believe.

Get phunk's oil pan. It's baffled. I have one of the original AM Perf baffled roadrace pans. Phunk's is a close copy with some updates.

yep I think he had to make base plates for mounting the wing.

I have one on my car already.