Zero oil pressure

[bimbimbop]

Guys I have finished my TT install and when firing up the engine I have zero oil pressure from the stock oil pressure gauge and my tanabe oil pressure gauge. I checked my oil cooler and it has oil running through it. do you guys know where I should be checking before I start ripping stuff back out?

[Ghostvette]

Originally Posted by bimbimbop

Guys I have finished my TT install and when firing up the engine I have zero oil pressure from the stock oil pressure gauge and my tanabe oil pressure gauge. I checked my oil cooler and it has oil running through it. do you guys know where I should be checking before I start ripping stuff back out?

Bad connection to the sender is the only possible answer. If the oil is at capacity, then that's really all it can be. I'm making some presumptions here, that the engine was running before you added the TT... (j/k ) Butt splices or 'add a wire' splices are okay for stereo installs, but for engine splices, your best bet is solder & heat shrink. GL

[Jayhovah]

Originally Posted by Ghostvette

Bad connection to the sender is the only possible answer. If the oil is at capacity, then that's really all it can be. I'm making some presumptions here, that the engine was running before you added the TT... (j/k )

Agreed.. first thing to check is the wiring for the OEM sensor and your aftermarket sensor. Also you mentioned "stock oil pressure gauge" - do you mean the warning light? In the US we do not have an actual light for the stock oil pressure gauge.

If you get passed the easy troubleshooting stuff like making sure all the sensors are plugged in and the wiring is good, the very first thing I would do is disconnect either the OEM or your aftermarket pressure sensor and plumb a known good mechanical pressure gauge just to confirm you do in fact have an oil pressure problem.

You should consider consulting a professional for this.. running the car without oil pressure, even just for troubleshooting, can cause serious damage to your motor.

Originally Posted by Ghostvette

Butt splices or 'add a wire' splices are okay for stereo installs, but for engine splices, your best bet is solder & heat shrink. GL

I'd argue that butt splices are inexcusable for any wiring in a vehicle =)

[NissanTracker]

Originally Posted by Jayhovah

I'd argue that butt splices are inexcusable for any wiring in a vehicle =)

I agree. I use automotive connectors whenever possible. Water sealed and quick to connect/disconnect. You can solder multiple wires to the same pin.

https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterpro...tive+connector

[bimbimbop]

Thanks guys I will recheck the wiring tomorrow once the garage opens up...sadley I’m in Korea and had a mechanic out here do it...he says the wiring is good and can’t figure it out...now I’m kicking myself in the *** because he is basically saying he doesn’t know what’s wrong and can’t fix it...not what you would want to hear from your mechanic


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[bimbimbop]

Originally Posted by Jayhovah

Agreed.. first thing to check is the wiring for the OEM sensor and your aftermarket sensor. Also you mentioned "stock oil pressure gauge" - do you mean the warning light? In the US we do not have an actual light for the stock oil pressure gauge.

If you get passed the easy troubleshooting stuff like making sure all the sensors are plugged in and the wiring is good, the very first thing I would do is disconnect either the OEM or your aftermarket pressure sensor and plumb a known good mechanical pressure gauge just to confirm you do in fact have an oil pressure problem.

You should consider consulting a professional for this.. running the car without oil pressure, even just for troubleshooting, can cause serious damage to your motor.



I'd argue that butt splices are inexcusable for any wiring in a vehicle =)

I meant the oil light on the dash lights up on start and stays lit

[TBatt]

Keep in mind that the Z has very high oil pressure. The sending unit and gauge needs to be able to handle 100+ psi. The oil bypass kicks in at 105psi.

On cold start I see the pressure reach the bypass limit and then as the oil warms up the pressure goes down.

[phunk]

I would:

1: unplug the fuel injection harness behind the lower intake manifold, preventing the engine from being able to start.

2: disconnect the stock oil pressure sensor

3: remove the oil pressure sensor

4: crank the starter for a few seconds

5: confirm that it just spit oil all over the floor out the oil pressure sensor port.

If it doesnt, something is very wrong. First place i would look is your oil cooler and sandwich plate arrangement. Start by just removing the sandwich altogether and put the filter back in place normally and try the test over again.

[fryzia23]

Since stock low oil pressure light stays on and your tanabe oil pressure sensor show 0, I have a good feeling that your mechanic spliced into factory low oil pressure sensor harness thinking it will work with your tanabe gauge. This will not work for sure. I would definitely check with him where he hooked up the tanabe oil pressure sensor.

[bimbimbop]

Originally Posted by fryzia23

Since stock low oil pressure light stays on and your tanabe oil pressure sensor show 0, I have a good feeling that your mechanic spliced into factory low oil pressure sensor harness thinking it will work with your tanabe gauge. This will not work for sure. I would definitely check with him where he hooked up the tanabe oil pressure sensor.

the tanabe is not spliced into the factory setup.

I have a mechanic out here saying that the lines are ran fine but the route from the R-line oil cooler needs added hoses that were not provided with the kit. He has taken some off a GTR and said once he added them the oil pressure is fine. Now I'm wondering if AAM did not send me the correct hoses and attachments to make their R-line oil cooler work with setup. The one thing I had a big problem with the AAM install was their install instructions. They have not been updated for recent turbo installs and was the biggest pain in the *** to figure out from a very novice installer.