BP turbo build/advice

hc_416 · 02-19-2016, 06:45 PM

If I were to get the vacuum block would it neaten up the installation in the engine bay as well?

jwick · 02-19-2016, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hc_416

If I were to get the vacuum block would it neaten up the installation in the engine bay as well?

I don't think so. The brake booster line coming out the back of the manifold is visible. The tap Sasha makes in the IM is hidden under the engine cover.

Of course you could make everything tucked away with enough effort and zip ties.

TcRocket · 02-20-2016, 11:48 PM

I think I'm going to go with aam intake. Vacum source taken care of...

. AAM Competition - Nissan GT-R, 370Z Turbo Performance Specialists

Edit: Has 4 auxiliary vacum ports flows better and looks bad ***......

Boosted Performance · 02-20-2016, 11:59 PM

The reason I suggest the IM be tapped at the front is to have the vacuum source (IM) as close to the BOV as possible. This increases response time and opens the BOV quicker between shifts, which is what you want to see. The BOV manufacturer also recommends the BOV have it's own designated vacuum source.

PongSanity · 02-21-2016, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance

The reason I suggest the IM be tapped at the front is to have the vacuum source (IM) as close to the BOV as possible. This increases response time and opens the BOV quicker between shifts, which is what you want to see. The BOV manufacturer also recommends the BOV have it's own designated vacuum source.

Do you think the extra inches of vacuum hose may cause an issue? I, too will have the manifold tapped twice to provide a source for the boost gauge. Thought it would've easier with the vacuum block.

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TheWeez · 02-21-2016, 08:19 AM

I don't believe you need to tap the IM twice with the SCG-1

TcRocket · 02-21-2016, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PongSanity

Do you think the extra inches of vacuum hose may cause an issue? I, too will have the manifold tapped twice to provide a source for the boost gauge. Thought it would've easier with the vacuum block.

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The gauge pressure should be able to come from charge pipe. It don't need to see vacuum..... I believe this is correct...anyone?

Chuck33079 · 02-21-2016, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TcRocket

The gauge pressure should be able to come from charge pipe. I don't need to see vacuum..... I believe this is correct...anyone?

The boost gauge needs to see vacuum. Take it off the IM.

TcRocket · 02-21-2016, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

The boost gauge needs to see vacuum. Take it off the IM.

Can you explain to as why "boost" gauge needs to see vacuum. I really have no need to see how much vacuum my engine is creating. All I care about is positive pressure. Just politely asking.

Chuck33079 · 02-21-2016, 09:15 AM

Why would you do it any different than the rest of the world? Otherwise the gauge would just sit at zero. I guess you could do that? But tapping the im and doing it the normal way is easy.

Plus, with all the new piping, vacuum leaks are a real possibility. How would you know if your boost gauge was only plumbed in to see positive pressure?

TcRocket · 02-21-2016, 09:28 AM

I guess I really have no desire to see how much vacum I'm making. And if I were to have a vacum leak it would barely Bo noticeable however upon boost it'd leak like a bitch. So I really don't see the reference there. I'm only trying to keep a healthy engine based upon boost pressure not vacum. The boost controller controlling the waste gates will only see positive pressure so why should the gauge controlling the solenoid need to ever see negative pressure. I'd rather see a gauge at zero instead of jumping all over in the negatives. If I don't see a number above approximately 3k then I know I have a line leak issue. Just my .02

Chuck33079 · 02-21-2016, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TcRocket

I guess I really have no desire to see how much vacum I'm making. And if I were to have a vacum leak it would barely Bo noticeable however upon boost it'd leak like a bitch. So I really don't see the reference there. I'm only trying to keep a healthy engine based upon boost pressure not vacum. The boost controller controlling the waste gates will only see positive pressure so why should the gauge controlling the solenoid need to ever see negative pressure. I'd rather see a gauge at zero instead of jumping all over in the negatives. If I don't see a number above approximately 3k then I know I have a line leak issue. Just my .02

Do it however you want, but there's a reason everyone else who installs a boost gauge does it that way. And doing it the right way takes no additional effort since tapping the Im takes minutes.

TcRocket · 02-21-2016, 09:43 AM

Just the way I seen Sasha state was that only the bov needed to ever see negative pressure. I've yet to install my turbo so I'm always open to advice.....

. Just saying how I was looking at it wrong or not and if I am I want to know the right....

What's the reason?

Side note..........anyone going to Z days this year. Never been plan on going

PongSanity · 02-21-2016, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

There's also a bung installed to the intake manifold for the BOV. I just had Sasha include a second bung and tapped the manifold twice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance

The wastegates only need pressure, no vacuum, sam goes for Boost controllers. The driver side charge pipe has a bung on it for this already.

You have to drill/Tapp the manifold for the BOV. It only needs vacuum.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance

The reason I suggest the IM be tapped at the front is to have the vacuum source (IM) as close to the BOV as possible. This increases response time and opens the BOV quicker between shifts, which is what you want to see. The BOV manufacturer also recommends the BOV have it's own designated vacuum source.

My reason for utilizing a vacuum block. Tapping the intake manifold or a vacuum block, they both serving the same purpose. Per Sasha advice, it's best for the BOV to have its own vacuum source with the shortest path. Very good advice. Doesn't make it wrong to do. No way between the two is wrong. I got this idea from VipViper who utilized the vacuum block for his build.

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TcRocket · 02-21-2016, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PongSanity

My reason for utilizing a vacuum block. Tapping the intake manifold or a vacuum block, they both serving the same purpose. Per Sasha advice, it's best for the BOV to have its own vacuum source with the shortest path. Very good advice. Doesn't make it wrong to do. No way between the two is wrong. I got this idea from VipViper who utilized the vacuum block for his build.

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The aem intake with the auxiliary vacuum ports is super sexy I do believe and functional....

02-20-2016, 11:48 PM	#198 (permalink)
TcRocket Base Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Coldwater MI Posts: 165 Drives: 2010 370z Nismo Rep Power: 9	I think I'm going to go with aam intake. Vacum source taken care of.... AAM Competition - Nissan GT-R, 370Z Turbo Performance Specialists Edit: Has 4 auxiliary vacum ports flows better and looks bad **...... Last edited by TcRocket; 02-21-2016 at 01:08 AM.*

02-20-2016, 11:59 PM	#199 (permalink)
Boosted Performance The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Edmonton, AB Posts: 1,629 Drives: Z's Rep Power: 3382	The reason I suggest the IM be tapped at the front is to have the vacuum source (IM) as close to the BOV as possible. This increases response time and opens the BOV quicker between shifts, which is what you want to see. The BOV manufacturer also recommends the BOV have it's own designated vacuum source. TcRocket likes this. __________________ 750WHP starting @ $7,500 to the door FOR DETAILS VISIT: http://www.the370z.com/members/boosted-performance.html FB: https://www.facebook.com/Boosted-Per...6303179791462/ IG @boostedperformanceyeg

02-21-2016, 09:15 AM	#205 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29538	Why would you do it any different than the rest of the world? Otherwise the gauge would just sit at zero. I guess you could do that? But tapping the im and doing it the normal way is easy. Plus, with all the new piping, vacuum leaks are a real possibility. How would you know if your boost gauge was only plumbed in to see positive pressure? BettyZ likes this. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

02-21-2016, 09:43 AM	#208 (permalink)
TcRocket Base Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Coldwater MI Posts: 165 Drives: 2010 370z Nismo Rep Power: 9	Just the way I seen Sasha state was that only the bov needed to ever see negative pressure. I've yet to install my turbo so I'm always open to advice...... Just saying how I was looking at it wrong or not and if I am I want to know the right.... What's the reason? Side note..........anyone going to Z days this year. Never been plan on going

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02-19-2016, 06:45 PM	#196 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 11	If I were to get the vacuum block would it neaten up the installation in the engine bay as well?

02-21-2016, 08:19 AM	#201 (permalink)
TheWeez Base Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Tampa Posts: 246 Drives: 370Z PG 6M ST Rep Power: 23	I don't believe you need to tap the IM twice with the SCG-1

02-21-2016, 09:28 AM	#206 (permalink)
TcRocket Base Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Coldwater MI Posts: 165 Drives: 2010 370z Nismo Rep Power: 9	I guess I really have no desire to see how much vacum I'm making. And if I were to have a vacum leak it would barely Bo noticeable however upon boost it'd leak like a bitch. So I really don't see the reference there. I'm only trying to keep a healthy engine based upon boost pressure not vacum. The boost controller controlling the waste gates will only see positive pressure so why should the gauge controlling the solenoid need to ever see negative pressure. I'd rather see a gauge at zero instead of jumping all over in the negatives. If I don't see a number above approximately 3k then I know I have a line leak issue. Just my .02