This is a Tial 50mm, only Tial clamps will work.

can i reuse the one's on there? or should i just jack up the car and service it in
the air?

I was talking about the ones that are holding on the vacuum hose, the v band clamp will be easy to get. It looks like the vacuum lines are attached with one and done clamp. Just wanted to make sure before muff something up.

Are you talking about wastegates or BOV?...and what is the issue?

i was talking about the BOV and i seem to have no boost at less than half throttle and its fine when I have full throttle. I was going to look and see if it was stuck open or needed lube. They had a problem with it when they first installed the kit and maybe it is still not working right.

Update, I had to put on a new passenger side caliper and it was easy peez. I then went to work on the blow off valve. I took off the banjo fitting and left the vacuum hose on it. After taking it off I noticed i took it apart. I found the diaphragm to be in good shape and clamped down correct. On the negative side I did see some debris, (a few mettle shavings), and the was a little bit of gunk on the sleeve of the bov were the piston goes. I'm am going to clean off the gunk, and oil it with wd 40. Just wanted to check in and get anymore advice or suggestions! thanks again for the help guys

So I finished cleaning the, BoV and all seems to be working ok. Now to work on the jumping AFR!!

BP turbo build/advice
 

Take out the secondary O2 sensors and your AFR will even out. You'll need your turner to turn off the code for those sensors.

Edit - As a trial just unplugged them and see if it fixes idle AFR.

ok will do, were should i unplug them from? by the transmission? and I will do it in the morning and let you know what happens. I have ecutek. what would be the best way to check out the jumping afr? I do have the add on pack for my profec should i double check with that?

You don't have an AFR gauge?

And yes just unplug them. He harness plugs run by the transmission. I'd zip tie them out of the way if you are going to take it for a test spin. I removed mine completely and just plugged them with bung plugs, and not the kinky kind.

lol ill try to remember the bung line! I do have a afr gauge. I want to make sure it is OK, becuse I wanted to get re tuned. I will post a update sometime in the afternoon. It is supposed to be really nice cruising weather all day. thanks jwick

updated

March 18 Update!

Glad to hear you're making progress! It sounds like it has been a true nightmare trying to get everything in place. Which oil pump were you referring to when you said you wish you upgraded it, but wasn't in your budget?

It wasnt that bad, just shops that are not really used to working on the car. That group buy they had with the backplate and gear, I forgot the name; I think it was Tony D who made it.

Hey just wanted to ask guys, what do they think about a ATI damper on a turbo charged car. I have a lighted fly wheel and a carbon fiber driveshaft and feel it might have taken out all of the damping for the drive train. Do you think not having much damping will have a impact on the longevity on my car?

Get the ati damper. Worthy mod.


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I going to hold off on the damper, i have a budget:ugh2: i had my brother saying i should get one, but it seems it not that imperative so I will wait till my next round of mods.

It's extra insurance for your motor. It puts less stress on the crank, rods, pistons along with the oil pump as well. I will be running one on my setup. If you don't run one then just don't up the rev limiter from factory (7,500).

Unless you are installing an upgraded oil pump I wouldn't recommend running over the stock limiter either way.

I think I will get it in due time, I just have a budge atm and and close to it, thank you for the advice. I was just wondering it it was worth it, most people say it is a choice of prefrence.

I bring it up to 8000 some times, but not much. I wanted to get the upgraded oil pump and plate, but budget once again.... I'm thinking I will add these things next year.

Oh and the car should be started either today or tormmore. :tup:
.

Don't spin it over 7.5k.. Especially boosted.

BP turbo build/advice
 

Yup. You won't need that extra 500rpms once you strap the turbo on anyway.

I run my blower to 7,850. I don't rev it out too often though.

That's probably ok. Most of the problems I've read about are at 8k and higher.

I like high revs!!!! Maybe to much either way she's alive!!!!! And needs a tune now, hopeing to hit 600 to 620 on a dyno jet!!

No need to rev it all the way out, but rock on if that's the way you drive!

You're going to have 450-500wtq anything over 3k. It's going to move just fine.

April 6 update!

Just talked to AAM, and got so preliminary numbers before I turn up the boost; she made 515 on 11 pounds of boost on a dyno jet. I'm now aiming for 600-630 at around 18 to 20 pounds of boost. I only have a 2.5 inch exhaust exiting to a y pipe, I think that will be my biggest bottle neck. I also have cats for emissions and that egg smell! What amount of boost do you guys think it will take to hit 600? I will have a bid or two and a dyno sheet in a few days!

Exhausts size won't be an issue at all. If you have emissions that will be a bit restrictive. To get to 600whp on pump, 17psi should do the trick. Ideally, the 1.32 a/r housing is key, and I don't remember what you had ordered.

So you think the cats are the worse of the two? hum... i have to pass emissions so they kinda have to stay. um the box says i have 6266 sp cea-1-bb1 w/th15D-66. I'm not sure what that means, maybe that can help?

Just have to pass the sniff test? Get some higher flowing cats.....

i have high flow stillens atm.

What's the A/R reading on the side of the compressor housing?

i dont have the car atm, but what I bought was the 1.15 unit.

You might have to consider replacing the compressor cover if you don't make the numbers you are looking for.

I definitely will, i should be close with this turbo. Does anyone know what this turbo will make for psi?

I wish I had HFC. The no cat is cool and great for the snail but I don't like the black stuff on the tailpipes not the smell.

YzGyz

The turbo is good for 30psi...but remember, pressure is resistance to flow. So if the turbine is too small, the pressure will go up, but power won't.

The telling sign that you have reached turbine flow limits is the torque numbers approaching horsepower numbers.


You will know a lot more after the dyno.

Ideally, for built engines, you want the 1.32 a/r turbine.

Thanks Sasa, I will look into thatl I only had so much budget... I think I will put it in my next build. How much does that housing cost? is it a lot of money to change it out and does it make it hard to spool the turbo?

Updated 600 whp on a dyno jet, but i need to get more info i had to cut our convo short, my boss came up on me at a job....