Would you recommend getting the CSF radiator with the BP kit? I live in Vegas so it gets pretty hot here, just wondering if it is worth it or not.

It definitely cools better. Unfortunately they have a track record for developing leaks. It's still the best option but not a perfect option. I wish we had a full proof radiator option.

I guess I'd recommend trying it and see how the temps hold up and do it later if needed.

I purchased a vented hood as an option of heat management. If I need the csf radiator due to constant rising of temps then I'll get it. But as is I don't plan to be in boost for more than 12 secs (1/4 mile) or a few minutes of spirited driving through the hills.

If you do not plan to upgrade the radiator, at the very bare minimum adjust the fan settings to kick on at a lower temp & ramp up faster.

Seb will give you the low down on that and the fan adjustment may be all you need. I have been in Phoenix traffic with temps over 120 with the ac maxed out and my temps remained less than 240. In Vegas the most I see is 225 or 230. The deal is I don't bust much at in temps around 100 or above.

Also, I would go to the most unrestricted exhaust setup possible just to allow things to flow better. My car produces a lot of torque and even with a 3" exhaust I don't make as much hp as many do because my torque is hard to control. I don't mind because torque is what acceleration is all about but why not have both.

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Oh and as mentioned a vented hood is a good thing. I also will open my hood when I get home just to let the vehicle cool more efficient on hot days.

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For the boosted guys... What are your intake temps? With the stillen cai (yes I'm still NA. It sucks) I'm 10° over ambient temperature.


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I hope I can explain this clearly - if you can see in the Diagram from the Turbo to the Boost selenoid - you have a T - the bottom of that T it takes you to both wastegates.

If you change where the Turbo is and where the wastegates are - so the bottom of the T would have the presure source (turbo) and the other vacuum lines the same for the Wastegates - would this have any effect on the proper operation of the boost controller?

So all you are doing is changing the direction of the T...


[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/921/Z4xjy3.jpg[/IMG]

BP turbo build/advice
 

Picture doesn't show o up on my phone.

For a good example, here's how my vacuum/pressure lines are routed.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...f964213bb8.jpg

Now that I can see the picture on my PC changing the direction of that Tee has no impact, infact I would run it like you described and not in the picture. I routed all mine where the pressure source hit the Tee and has to divide in half to the downstream users but it shouldn't matter for the volume of tubing compared to PSI, it'll all equalize in the line basically instantly.

With this configuration, you will see less than spring pressure at the manifold. If you run it like this, you are taking your pressure source at the compressor, where the boost will always be highest, as this does not take in to account the pressure drop across the piping and intercooler. So if you put an 8psi spring in the gates, you may see 7psi at the manifold due to the 1psi drop across the system.

So, what you can do is run the boost source to the lower ports of the wastegates from the nipple on the driver side charge pipe (this is the port available in the kit). Then, instead of plugging the port on the compressor, you can run it to Port #1 of your solenoid, and then from Port #2 to the top half of the wastegates.

This configuration would work perfectly fine.

Well said Sasha exactly how I'm running my vacuum lines

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...921/CpfUJm.jpg

My Innovate Scg-1 is set at the lowest duty cycle - but it's overboosting over 10 - 12 psi. Gain is set low.

I am thinking the solenoid is not working correctly - so I bought a Turbosmart manual boost controller.

Sasha or Jwick - I unhooked the line going to the top of the wastegates. Is it ok to run like this? for testing purposes...

So the Turbosmart manual has line from boost source underneath driver's intake - and into controller then out of controller to T'd side of both wastegates.

crossing my fingers...

Clarification - the manual boost controller is plumbed into the top port of the WG?

no it's the the side's of each wastegate - but I just got back, short little cruise - still boosting 10 psi. Kept it below 5 k... :confused:

I re-hooked the SCG1 back up... this is weird.

BP turbo build/advice
 

That's because you have the manual boost controller plumbed incorrectly. You need to take the source from the driver intake and tee it to both lower ports on the WG. Then either take a second pressure source to the boost controller and then Tee it to the top ports on the WGs.

Either that or you could Tee of the intake tap, run one side to another tee and to each of the lower ports of the WGs, then the other side of the original Tee will go to the manual boost controller and then get teed again and run those to the upper ports.

Easiest way to check if everything is correct now is to simply remove the boost controller and run straight to the WGs. Leave the upper ports open to atmosphere. This should be WG spring pressure. If you used the yellow spring you should be around 7-8lbs.

Edit - if you take a look at my diagram a few posts up you'll see how I plumbed mine.

Jwick thxs - I do have it hooked up - just like in your second Paragraph or picture. And still got me to 11.5 pds tonight.

At the beginning of all this - I changed a Vacuum line from Driver's intake T to Bottom wastegate T's. I changed it as it was really close the the engine, and I thought it might have been leaking. I used a Turbosmart 1/4" but I think Sasha uses 6mm. This is a small difference but could this be the cause?

But tomorrow night I will remove the left vacuum line from the Selenoid - that runs to the T'd upper WG's. And then remove the right side Selenoid hose and plug it and wire tie just in case. So essentially the right side intake tube will be running to WG's bottom ports. If I get boost about 8 psi ---- this would be a WG problems then right? I am on 7 psi springs... thxs again for the help...

There has to be an issue with the plumbing somewhere. Just double check the lower port side of things, and make sure there are no leaks/kinks. That is about the only way you will overboost.

What colour springs did you put in the gates?

The best way to test it all, is to disconnect the lines on the top half of the gates, and leave them open to atmosphere. With this, you should see close to spring pressure boost levels.

If you are seeing anything higher, this is the area you need to focus on.

So I found the issues with my boost spiking so high - I had 4 missing wastegate plugs. Two from one side lower ports and a plug from each of the top ports of each wastegate, 4 in total.

So Sasha supplied me with 4 more - and they are all back in. I added some high temp thread sealant and I have control of my boost again.

I think what happened last year, just before storage, I took my Z to my favorite oil change place and they had a line up, being impatient, I drove elsewhere, and the guy working on my car has an extra set of wastegate plugs. It kinda makes sense cause my boost was acting up at the end of last year. I will never let a stranger work on my Z again.

Car feels great at only 8.5 psi - the turbo spooling thru shifts is sooo enticing! Great kit! thxs again Sasha! :driving:

glad to hear you figured it out! :tup:

UPDATE!!!!

The good, I am tuned on about 8lbs, I made 405hp and 323tq on a mustang dyno.

The bad, I still have an air leak I need to find; when the revs start going higher up in the afr is going up and down and not staying steady.

The ugly, I went to a local tuner East Coast Swapper that was bad, (pm for more info I’m not here to trash anyone; or look at my google review), and I let them hold my car for about six weeks and got no tune....

So I made the switch to ECUTECk, and I have to say with the new tune the car seems to be running smoother and is a little more responsive. I had John Visconti tune it, and I have to say he did a good job. He got the car tuned and let me know I had a leak and let me know where to start looking. John is also sending my files over too ECUTECK and talking to Sasa. While the numbers were a little disappointing I am happy that I found a tuner that I could trust and work with to get the car were it needs to be. Now for the air leak; John recommend to start around the downstream 02. I called my installer at Exccelrate Performance and will be dropping off the car next Friday to get the leak fixed. Any advice is always welcome! I will put the dyno chart up in a day or two.

Good work...there is still a bit of power left there if you just bump that boost up by a couple of psi :)

As for the a/f reading and leak, go straight to the turbine outlet, where the down pipe is clamped on the turbine. Remove it and check for RTV. I have implemented a tongue/groove connection there, but just double check it. Add some of the red RTV that comes with the kit, and you'll be good to go.

Enjoy the car.

Ok Sasa, i will tell my shop to do that, love boosting in first, second, and third! I think there is a lot more left, is the tq low? I believe it is

Hard to say on a mustang dyno. I was originally tuned on one and my 405 on a mustang was really 500 on a dynojet.

Hey guys! Well I have the shop looking at my car. My AFR seems to be jumping around, not sure why and looking for ideas. They are throwing out that the innvoate gauge is to far up and at the right distance. I'm not sure how I feel about this. I am looking for ideas on what would make the AFR jump around. I was thinking dirty o2? Any advice would be appreciated.

It bouncing around when? When WOT or when in closed loop?

I had asked the shop about details on when this is going on, but they never replied. I also suggested they have a look at the down pipe V-band flange, and add RTV to where it connects to the turbine. If this is the issue, the reading would only be bouncing around at idle and possibly very low load. If they get back to my email, I could possibly provide more input.

Thanks Sasa, I will call them tormorrow and let them know what you say. I'm not sure why they didn't reach back out. Hopefully they can respond to you buy 12 p.m

When at Idle - AFR's will bounce around from 13.9 -14.7 same with a cruising speed. Ideally it should be 14.7 at idle but our digital gauges and with engine pulses - it's practically impossible to stay at 14.7 all the time.

Even at WOT - we see our AFR's go to 10.5 - 11.5 or so... they never just stay in the 10's or 11's.

I used the AEM tru boost on another turbo'd vehicle - and same thing. It always jumps around a little.

best of luck

With Sasha... you are missing a "h" in his name... thought I should let you know..:tup:

I thought so too, but his email only has that. Sasah want to chime in?

Here was his reply to me,

said "The closed loop fueling is going crazy with the car.. Which is l likely due to the sensor placement." He also asked about o2 sensor placement, I provided him pictures, I am just waiting to hear back from him to seer what he suggests.

BP turbo build/advice
 

That doesn't make sense. Closed loop fueling is determined by the trim fuel O2 sensor which is the one on the OEM header. You didn't move that at all with the install.

Now he could be taking about the O2 sensor which should be post-cat which are now in the same bank. In theory those aren't supposed to do anything but measure that the cats did their job. In reality I believe they do more than that.

I'm not clear on exactly when you are having said issues. In closed loop the car should be running feedback loop from the fuel trim sensor. My closed loop AFR always bounced around a lot, mostly at idle, but it would happen closed loop at speed too but not as bad.

My solution, remove the post-cat O2 sensors and go on with your life. I did and my idle has been rock solid ever since.

Thanks jwick, I will keep that in mind and let them know.

Hey guys, i'm back again!

I have been driving the car and it is really fun, but..... in the morning when I went to drive the car it would not make boost under low throttle. I heard a farting sound which sound's like i'm leaking air out. I went under the car and don't see any loose pipes or fittings. Any idea's what i could look at to get it fixed, or is this a bring it to a shop situation? I'm planning on more work in the winter and hope to dive it till after the driving season then get some more work done.

Stuck bov? They need to be lubed periodically.

I was thinking that or a wastegate, do you know how i would check?

Take the bov off and lube it. Turbosmart makes a spray that works great, but I'm pretty sure it's relabeled wd40. :rofl2:

If you aren't make boost, I'd think the BOV is stuck open. If you were over boosting, then I'd think waste gate.

what weird is it wll not make boost on low throttle, but when I am at full throttle it works like normal. I'm out of time this weekend because I work sundays but I will try to lube it next weekend.

Can anyone tell me what size the clamps are for the blow-off vavle?