Just tell your boss the Z forum needs to know more details and he can wait his turn.

Updated!!!! Hit 600hp and 461 yq at 15.5 dyno on the front page

Why does it say AAM TT? Did you swap kits?

No sir, aam typed in my car as a 370 z at dirat he fogot to change the name. I was told i maxed oht my mafs so i couldnt go father. How does the graohvlook to you guys?

BP turbo build/advice
 

Pulls all the way to the top and that torque curve is stout! My original tune was 440-450 wtq. It's a lot to handle. Traction will be the issue.

I maxed my MAFs around 500whp when I had the 2.5" piping. I don't recall what percentage I'm at with 3" piping. I wouldn't be surprised to run out at 600whp.

440-450 is a good amount of torque. I'm hoping to hit around 550-575whp with the direct port methanol kit. With E85 the ethanol can range too much from a pump, unless you're getting it from a can / drum.

I assume that's a built block for a torque number that large.

I'm not a fan of methanol. It's not that it doesn't work, it's just another mechanical system that can malfunction and a tank that runs dry.

Most all tunes for the highest boost settings are done at e70 because you seldom get anything better than e83. In AZ the best you can get is about e56 and Las Vegas is e70ish. You should get maps for various levels of ethanol. I have 4 of them.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

So I picked up the bat mobile and drove her 600 miles. Two things came up, first the AFR gauge wasn't working too well. AAM fixed that with putting in a new sensor, it looks like it was bent. The second thing was my boost gauge is saying I’m over boosting to like 20 and 30 pounds of boost.... the tuner Mike said it was closing when I let off the gas and causing a boost spike. The pressure came from the throttle shutting and really wasn’t there? I saw it happen on my gauge and it doesn’t seem like I’m hitting 30 PSI, but I have no way to tell. The only boos gauge I had was the Greddy Profec and it worked fine when I gave them the car. Another thing I noticed was the car never shows any vacuum? I am thinking it could be one of these things; boost gauge is broke; boost gauge hooked up/set-up wrong; it really is hitting that psi? Advice would be appreciated! Thanks guys!!

With a new/built engine, you need find out what your vacuum is at idle, while the engine is hot. Based on this, you may need to change the BOV spring:

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...ring_chart.jpg


The BOV in the kit comes with an 11psi spring, since the vacuum falls in that range with the stock engine. A shop like AAM should know this.

BP turbo build/advice
 

How many pounds of pressure were they seeing on the dyno when tuning it?

It was max 15.5 . The greddy was set at 45% gain.

550 wheel horsepower, not 550ft-lbs torque lol. I'm using the Aquamist Methanol kit as a safety net more than anything. The Aquamist kit has been pretty good so far. I'm running a boost controller so it's going to be a mild tune around town then a more aggressive tune. I run a can of Torco octane booster on every fill up as well.

Well after looking how they hooked up the Greddy boost controller, I see they didn't drill out the manifold and they did two tee's off the big line in the back of the manifold. I will fix it when i get the parts but I wanted to know if this would cause the issue i am seeing? the car is running great i just want to get the gauge up and running. Ill get a picture and post it up asap.

Well I found two things, 1. They did not tap the manifold for the vacuum lines for the blow off valves; instead they used the big vacuum hose that goes off manifold into the firewall and t fitted twice off of it. I will have to wait and see if they found the vacuum at idle and ask what spring they used.
2. My car on their dyno sheet hit 15.5 pounds boost, so should I find the vacuum and use that to detriment what spring I need? Or is he using the boost controller to control the level of pressure so he doesn't need to change out the spring? AKA can i do it myself( which i'm not sure i can do)?

Is my car ok at the moment?

You need to find out what your vacuum is at idle, with the engine fully warmed up. From there you need to get the correct BOV spring. I am guessing your vacuum will be in the -18 to-19 Hg. Which means you need a lighter spring. Til Sport also recommends that each BOV has its own dedicated vacuum source from the manifold, via 1/4" hose, with no more than 48" between BOV and vacuum source (manifold). This is why in my instructions it tells the installer to drill the very front of the manifold, to keep that hose as short as possible.

BOV's work on vacuum, and if the vacuum in the manifold is not strong enough to overcome the spring, you could see compressor surge because the air has no way out, if the BOV is not opening fully.

With this out of the way, you at least know this part of the install was done correctly.

hey gonna pm you. thanks for the response.

Does anyone have the link to the new version of the kit? I have the V1 instructions. Thanks

SOOOO>>>.<<<< here I am guys, going to need some help since i haven't done this before. I have one bov that is on the driver's side. I have two waste gates on the passengers side by the turbo. Unfortunately they ran the whole set up wrong so my brother and I have to redo it. They feed the BOV off a t that was coming of a vacuum on the back of the manifold; the other line was going to the boost controller. It also looks like they ran the waste gates off of separate t's. I will have to get the G reddy instruction and make sure to do it right. ..... They seem to have a t that they don't need. What I am gong to do is just rerun it. I do have a few questions if I can ask.

What my bother and I did today, was correct the bov by tapping the manifold and running a dedicated line for it. I have gotten to change out the spring yet so I still don't see vacuum. And on to the waste gates....I cant seem to get them to work. I have both ports on the waste-gates hooked up one line down with a t to the WG on the bottom side, and one line with a t coming back up. This is were I get confused. I have a greddy profec, which has a control box with a inline filter. a solonid with port 1 and 3 being used with port two with no plug and left open. I ran the control box line to the nipple on the charge pipe and put the lower WG line to port 3 and the upper WG line to port one. I did it wrong and I know just looking to get it right really need some help.... Thanks guys!

BP turbo build/advice
 

Edit

i'm gonna look dumb but I don't understand the picture... I under stand the BOV part but the part on the left and the right are the ones I don't understand.
what is the second vacuum line coming off the front of the Intake manifold? I also don't see were the solonid is? did you hook up to port one and come out port 2 while leaving port three open or block? sorry for the question's i have never run a BC before...

I fixed it!!! The part i didn't get was the control unit and the waste gates are seperate systems. I had to tap the fuel pressure regulate, and not try to plumb it in with the waste gate system. Now i just need that re-tune from aam and will be good to go, but I was seeing my vacuum, boost, and not over boosting like it was. So very good day. I want to thank those that help me figer it out. Also just for the record because of the way it was hooked up AAM is compensating me with a AAM intake manifold.

Sorry for ******* up your install, here's a $2k manifold!

Glad you got fixed before your car pooped. That would be no good. A new manifold is a decent compensation I guess. It's not like you didn't pay them big $$ then they took it then messed up doing an install of what they specialize in. But like I said, a decent compensation due to the fact that your car didn't boom (could easily have with overboosting).

YzGyz

Glad to see AAM with an effort to make it right. Hopefully no permanent damage done during the overboosting and a $2k manifold is a pretty sweet freebie for your trouble. MAKE SURE THE MANIFOLD CASTING IS CLEAR AND CLEAN!!!!

I think it is fair, I never wanted to overboost but it looks like the tech hooked it up for a twin instead of a single. Then since i have never hooked up a bov or waste gates i had to learn; which was about 8 hours and a few drinks in lol. I still have to check the vaccum at idle and set the spring. Does anyone have a idea about waste gate springs? I have the seven pound and using the pressure for the BC, should I keep it this way or go to a heavier spring? Still learning....

I suggest keeping the one you have now as long as its working the way you want.

Are you using a boost controller? Then here's what you need to know in selecting a spring:

In the general case, you want to select the lightest spring that still allows your boost controller to hold the target boost all the way to redline.

If you have too light of a spring, the exhaust pressure at high rev/load will be able to push the wastegate flapper open on its own.

Too heavy of a spring, and you won't be able to dial the boost down if you need.

Now, you may want to go a little heavier that "the lightest you can" so that you have room to raise the boost later down the road... There is probably a range of springs that will work now and in the future.. And don't forget, you can always tension the spring down for adjustment.

You guys are confusing BOV springs and wastegate springs. Glad you got it all figured out. Let me know what your vacuum is at idle and I'll get you the correct BOV sent.

Ok will do sasa it wont be worked on till Friday so anout a week. Were is the best place to get the vaccum measurements from? I was going to buy one of tbose five dollar ones from ebay. Or would it be better from autozone?

Anywhere on the intake manifold. A cheap gauge will do just fine.

Couple things. Make sure you have your vacuum lines clear of the manifold and securely so. Second after much suspicion I found that the springs in the Tial wastegates read a bit off consistently. At first I thought it was my boost controller buat after checking around I talked with a major shop in the area and found that they would pressure test the springs before install and the same inconsistent readings were found with the springs. I finally went with the the next step lower than recommended. The boost controller can only regulate boost from that point up and no lower. But above all else make sure the vacuum lines stay clear of anything that might burn a hole in them. I got owned by a 1/4 inch hole in a vacuum line to the passenger wastegate.

I will do that, i'm getting the vacuum gauge to test vacuum and set up the BOV that way. After that I will check he waste gate springs next Thanks for the info that is really helpful.

2 updates. First the vacuum gauge didn't come today, so I will have to wait till next week to get the reading. Second is i'm hearing the waste gates open but they sound like they are fluttering and not releasing pressure when they should. the boost just keeps going up.... any idea what it its?

oH and Girls, Girls, Girls!! bonus points for who knows that song!!

Hey guys got the vacuum measurement, it came in at 19.5 Hg, What are guys thought's? I also turned off the BC and found that i'm not even getting the waste gates to do jack. The boost just goes up till i hit redline and shift, maybe they are stuck? Well this weekend I will take them apart and take a look at and see what springs they put in, maybe they went way to strong.

Be very careful if you spike you're looking at a new motor. Maybe pull the wastegates to make sure your diaphragms are not pinched. And it may seem like alot of work but having been through what I've been through I'd pull all the vacuum lines and reinstall them.

Here's the diagram of my setup.

How much boost are you seeing?
Also, when you tuned the BC off, did you leave the solinoid plumbed in the wastegate lines? Try completely removing the BC from the loop so you can be certain your wastegates are as isolated as they can be.

Yeah, if you do what Jayhova said, run a line from charge pipe to the tops of the wastegates and leave the bottom open to atmosphere. Also if you have a 3 port solenoid make sure it's plumbed correctly. My diagram is for the Greddy Profec OLED EBC. When I used port 1 it was wrong and allowed runaway boost. It would also be nice to see what you were peaking at.

BP turbo build/advice
 

That's how mine is rain too. Except I don't remember exactly which port is which on the EBC solenoid.