I don't believe you need to tap the IM twice with the SCG-1

The gauge pressure should be able to come from charge pipe. It don't need to see vacuum..... I believe this is correct...anyone?

The boost gauge needs to see vacuum. Take it off the IM.

Can you explain to as why "boost" gauge needs to see vacuum. I really have no need to see how much vacuum my engine is creating. All I care about is positive pressure. Just politely asking.

Why would you do it any different than the rest of the world? Otherwise the gauge would just sit at zero. I guess you could do that? But tapping the im and doing it the normal way is easy.

Plus, with all the new piping, vacuum leaks are a real possibility. How would you know if your boost gauge was only plumbed in to see positive pressure?

I guess I really have no desire to see how much vacum I'm making. And if I were to have a vacum leak it would barely Bo noticeable however upon boost it'd leak like a bitch. So I really don't see the reference there. I'm only trying to keep a healthy engine based upon boost pressure not vacum. The boost controller controlling the waste gates will only see positive pressure so why should the gauge controlling the solenoid need to ever see negative pressure. I'd rather see a gauge at zero instead of jumping all over in the negatives. If I don't see a number above approximately 3k then I know I have a line leak issue. Just my .02

Do it however you want, but there's a reason everyone else who installs a boost gauge does it that way. And doing it the right way takes no additional effort since tapping the Im takes minutes.

Just the way I seen Sasha state was that only the bov needed to ever see negative pressure. I've yet to install my turbo so I'm always open to advice.....:). Just saying how I was looking at it wrong or not and if I am I want to know the right....:) What's the reason?

Side note..........anyone going to Z days this year. Never been plan on going

My reason for utilizing a vacuum block. Tapping the intake manifold or a vacuum block, they both serving the same purpose. Per Sasha advice, it's best for the BOV to have its own vacuum source with the shortest path. Very good advice. Doesn't make it wrong to do. No way between the two is wrong. I got this idea from VipViper who utilized the vacuum block for his build.


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The aem intake with the auxiliary vacuum ports is super sexy I do believe and functional....:yum:

What's money you make it every day lol

There's been no tests of that manifold yet. It may not do a damn thing. Hell, there's no pictures of it yet, just renders. I'd wait on that one.

Especially for 2k, that's outrageous


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Given that the kit can exceed the limits of the stock block as it ships, a new IM is overkill until you build the motor. It is pretty though.

It is overkill I know. However boosted will just never be enough...... I see I built block in the next couple years

Not me :icon17:

You want to see how much vacuum you make, trust me. On my old big turbo Audi A4 I would see boost fluctuations with weather conditions, the only way to see if you have a leak is by looking at vacuum measurements which shouldn't vary. Also, having a vacuum leak is a huge deal - do you want unfiltered air being sucked into your engine? :facepalm:

There are many benefits to knowing where your vacuum is at.

Updated op, got my S1-S kit from CJ motorsports!! finally starting too see the parts come in!

I'm looking at the Tomei diff... Most folks run a quaife diff...


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Clutch and flywheel ordered today. After talking with Joe at zspeed went with southbend stage 3 daily driver with quiet disc, HD csc, 19 lb steel southbend billet flywheel and new cmm.

Just installed that exact set up last week


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Great setup, highly recommend it right up there with OS Giken.

OS giken was my first choice but Joe talked me out of it. Said that they a very much like a light switch. On or off not as Street able as the stage 3 southbend. So went with that until I build the motor when and if I do...

Did you install it yourself or have it done? I don't know about bench pressing a transmission by myself lol

Took it to AAMCO for $450
They changed the Trans/clutch fluid, installed the fly/clutch/CSC/CMC


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Nissan quoted me $500 to do install. I'll prob go that route. Self install of turbo kit though.....:)

Nissan quoted me $500 to do clutch install. I'll prob go that route. Self install of turbo kit though......:)

Right on. Clutch is the only thing I farmed out. Allowed it to be broken in completely when the kit went on. I literally loaded the base map and hit the freeway

Clutch job is actually pretty easy.you just need the right sockets, stars and torque wrench. Get the car as high as you can and it's not so bad.

Yzgyz

Does that set up feel good on a daily drive and hold the power. What are the power lvl's that it will hold? Sorry for no update, work....

BP turbo build/advice
 

As long as you go with a full face single disk, I expect most of these clutches to drive the same. Stiffer than OEM for sure but not an on/off switch like a puck or multi-disk. I run the Z1 full face and lightweight flywheel. I notice nothing different than stock except the resistance pressure. Oh and it's noisy. Think 80's F250 pickup truck.

Doesn't the puck clutches hold more power though?


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That's not necessarily true, going pucked or non is more of a question of what you're using the car for, launching vs daily driving vs road course driving. Many non-pucked clutches will hold well over 600whp, but you start to consider going into a twin disc or a triple as you near 1000whp.

Thought about getting the z1 six puck clutch vs their full race for such purpose. That or the south bend OFE endurance clutch.


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BP turbo build/advice
 

I've not seen any issues with my Z1 to date but I'd guess I'm at the border of allowable power. I ran it at 465wtq for a year with no issues. My current tune is only 440wtq.

BP turbo build/advice
 

Stupid question time: on the turbocharger, the vacuum port on the charge side. Is it utilized? Why not use that as the vacuum source for the BOV? It's a closer run than to the UIM.


EDIT: I meant to say BOV and not waste gate.

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I wondered about this sane question during my installation. I think it's just more accurate and closer to the engine block itself that's why the instructions say to tap the intake manifold.

YzGyz

The reason for this is that you would have lower IM pressure. There is always a pressure drop across the system (piping and intercooler), and by taking the lines to the compressor cover, (for example) a 9psi spring may yield only 7psi at the manifold.

Since wastegates don't need vacuum and only operate by pressure, the absolute best source for the pressure is just before the TB...which is where the nipple is located on each one of these kits.

Shoot. I meant the BOV.... Instead of tapping the IM, why not urilize that as vacuum source.


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