I had a 03 accord coupe six speed. By far the best shiftier, only Porsche was better. Had carbon synchronous! smooth as butter!

Fuel pressure gauge questions have been answered. Now to oil pressure gauge. How important is that given in event of low oil pressure a light will be activated? I'm going with innovate boost control that will show a/f and boost psi and also had safety cut for low a/f. Just trying to figure out if I need two gauge or one gauge pod.

The innovate oil pressure/temp gauge has settings for when it gets too hot or pressure gets low.


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Car already has oil temp gauge and has a light for low oil pressure. So I a gauge needed for oil psi?

I would actually disagree. Having the proper fuel system in these cars is probably the 2nd most important thing to have besides a proper tune. Will Sasha's supplied fuel system components work? Yes, but is the CJM system overkill? Not by anymeans. I would highly recommend running a fuel return for anyone running forced induction. Being very close with Tony@FI, I know first hand the amount of tuning they did and reasoning behind them coming out with their own fuel return. On the upper end, if and when the fuel leans out is when any forced induction application has had issues. The fuel return ultimately eliminates this all together and gives great piece of mind.

Yes, why would it not fit? Phunk's rails and full fuel return is also what I'll be going with, along with a few custom goodies to modify my current RRP for track use.

Hey can anyone tell me how much oil they are using per oil change? Bp v2 with oil cooler.

My bad. OP and myself have a G37s so we need it. The 370z doesn't. So probably one innovate gauge for AFR and boost controller would be fine. Fuel tap w/ gauge or a return system will suffice for the fuel readings


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I recommend an oil pressure gauge. If you use the light on the dash all its going to tell you us you blew your engine.

Pretty much where is leaning towards, just for the piece of mind at the very least. Gale force two pod pillar it is then. Now to find my oil pressure gauge of choice. Prob analog. Digital might be annoying given its changing all the time. I know it's in other threads but what psi is the 3.7 vqvhr run. Gauge range I'm looking for.

Aem oil pressure gauge then. Digital more accurate though.


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[IMG[/IMG]https://res.cloudinary.com/rallyspor...def1_df06602_1

Nope just order this and GaleForce dual a pillar.....:)

Does that have a warning light in it?

No but I have eyes that will be keeping close attention on my gauges.......:) Analog will be very obvious at least to me. Although I'm sure I could come up with something given I am a journeyman electrician with an education from msu...:)

So this kit already has a extra bung welded in for my m.a.f. in my innovate boost controller?

Edit: meant to say o2 sensor that is part of innovate boost controller

you can tee into the wastegate vacuum source off the intake manifold, or tee into the brake booster vacuum line. I'm getting a vacuum block for those two (for my build). I don't want to tap my manifold.

BP turbo build/advice
 

There's also a bung installed to the intake manifold for the BOV. I just had Sasha include a second bung and tapped the manifold twice.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...141efc83b8.jpg

This is a diagram of my vacuum lines. On top of the items for the kit I have both a Boost Gauge and Boost Controller plumbed in.

I need a bung for my aftermarket innovate o2 sensor for af in the sg1. Not sure if I need to pm Sasha about having another one added at least 24" from turbo as pr install instructions. Or does that distance not affect that much?

I'm just going to replace the OEM O2 sensor with the wideband :rofl2:

You'll be fine just using the bung Sasha provides in the down pipe. I'm using it with no issues. If you think about it the fuel trim O2 sensors less than 18" from the block header flange and that heat doesn't cause them issues.

Don't do that. Sasha provides one in the downpipe.

Haha thanks


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Thanks jwick. You're always great at helping me with questions I have as well as everyone else on here. Really appreciate it guys.:tup::tup:

:tiphat:

The wastegates only need pressure, no vacuum, sam goes for Boost controllers. The driver side charge pipe has a bung on it for this already.

You have to drill/Tapp the manifold for the BOV. It only needs vacuum.

And yes, the downpipe comes with an O2 bung already welded in.

EDIT:

I should mention that the kit comes with two drill bits, pilot and final size as well as a 1/8" NPT tap and a 1/4" x 1/8" NPT hose barb. So you don't need to go out and get any of this stuff.

I'll be getting a vacuum block (VitTuned Vacuum Block) for blow off valve and boost gauge. Possibly 4bar map sensor if necessary. I gotta read up to see if the 4bar map sensor bypasses (tee's in) the stock map sensor or replaces it altogether.

EDIT: The 3/4 bar map sensor would just replace the stock map sensor. of course some tuning will have to be done to get it dialed in correctly. So yes. two 1/8 npt fittings for the blow off valve and boost gauge. waste gates and boost controller goes to the bung under the driver side charge pipe.

Going Ecutek?

Whats that block for? just to clean it up ? Ill do a update later today too. Just have to wait and confirm some things.

I am.

instead of tapping the manifold for vacuum, you use the vacuum line off the brake booster. the vacuum block is just a tee with multiple vacuum ports. for instance, Jwick tapped his manifold twice, one for the BOV, and the other for the boost gauge. I'll just have to open two ports from the vacuum block to provide the vacuum source.

Oh **** that sounds nice, is it safe. I might want to get it. I have my bc and I will need the other line too.

Also what size fittings are you getting to use?

1/8 npt


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Nothing wrong with a vacuum block.

op update, so is it recommend to get?

personal opinion. its not necessary for purchase. just an alternative.

If I were to get the vacuum block would it neaten up the installation in the engine bay as well?

I don't think so. The brake booster line coming out the back of the manifold is visible. The tap Sasha makes in the IM is hidden under the engine cover.

Of course you could make everything tucked away with enough effort and zip ties.

I think I'm going to go with aam intake. Vacum source taken care of...;). AAM Competition - Nissan GT-R, 370Z Turbo Performance Specialists

Edit: Has 4 auxiliary vacum ports flows better and looks bad ***......:)

The reason I suggest the IM be tapped at the front is to have the vacuum source (IM) as close to the BOV as possible. This increases response time and opens the BOV quicker between shifts, which is what you want to see. The BOV manufacturer also recommends the BOV have it's own designated vacuum source.

Do you think the extra inches of vacuum hose may cause an issue? I, too will have the manifold tapped twice to provide a source for the boost gauge. Thought it would've easier with the vacuum block.


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