There are no shear pins, there is a key to hold the gear on to the shaft as it rotates. It is not possible for the key to come out with the cover on, and the gear in place. It is not a large key, so it just slides down the square hole on the right gear. You can pull that gear out to inspect it.

Those gears look mint.

Did you pull the gears out at all? If the motor is running there is absolutely no reason for a rebuild. I have never seen one of these fail.

I agree but the key is not there; not really sure what happened. I only checked out the pump with the bottom on so I am going to try today to check it out with the bottom off and see if the motor works. should the gears be rubbing on the back plate?

would they sell you parts for the pump?

Never bothered. In my case it was post popping the motor. I had small debris inside but nothing big. However seeing my oil pan I can guess that something big may have gone through. My problem was a circlip. But the pump itself is a good product. The worst oversight I made was not getting an inline filter to save it. The inlines were on their site. With my new one it runs like a top and I think the other one would've too barring me blowing the motor.

Mine came with an in-line strainer

Neither of mine did and I have two. The one from Sasha and the one direct from Turbowerx.

I do have one as well. It's just weird that i cant find the key like were did it go?

Hey guys how do you take apart the waste-gates for cleaning? I took off all the screws on the top and bottom and it will not separate. A little advice is needed please!

May be binding ....try tapping it with a rubber mallet or something that won’t damage it ...there isn’t anything internal that holds it together

I’ve never taken one apart, but dumb question, is the spring out of it?

Unless the gate is malfunctioning, there is really no reason to take it apart. Once the crews are out, there is nothing else holding the top cap in place. So be careful as the spring can send things flying once it does become loose.

Now that were on the topic of wastegates.. I'm still having overboosting/boost creep issues. I spoke with my tuner and he sent me an updated map. Fixed the problem for a day and then started overboosting the next. I know it's not a cold weather issue because its been happening all year.

I've seen alot of other platforms having boost creep issues with the external tial wastegates. I could be going down the wrong path here but has anyone swapped to a different wastegate completely and has anyone else had this issue? I spoke to solidus about this and he said his wastegate spring pressure was not rated for what tial claimed when tested. Even if that's the case. Shouldn't the tuning keep the boost pressure from going over? I'm not the most knowledgeable when it comes to turbochargers so I'd appreciate any help or advice

I'm having a vacuum pressure test done just to rule out any type of vacuum leak.

You trying pulling apart your wastegate?

The springs test + or - 1 to 2psi. What Realstreet does is test each spring they install to match the rates. As far as taking the wastegates apart I use a C-clamp then slowly release it. Unless you want to see parts fly. Put it back together the same way to avoid crossthreading.

I have not. Tomorrow I'm bringing it to shop for a vacuum pressure test. Might as well have them take a look while its there.

I have not heard of any customers having issues with any boost creep.

What springs are in the gates, and what is the actual boost being seen? Also, which boost controller, and where is the boost reference for the wastegates (bottom) and boost controller pressure reference plumbed to?

If the tuner "fixed it" and it worked for a day, it sounds like a boost controller issue.

Actual boost creep due to poor exhaust/kit design would occur when you are trying to run low power/boost, not with higher boost. This is because at low power/boost, more exhaust gas needs to go through the wastegates, to bypass the turbine, and keep the boost low.

I just started reading another thread and it seems that I'm not using the correct spring. I have the recommended yellow spring. Here's the link.

As for what I'm seeing. I'm tuned for 9psi and I see up to 10.3 psi on that map. Second map I'm tuned for 10psi and I have seen up to 13psi. It's not a surge or spike because it happens after running closer to redline. Map 3 Is tuned for 12psi. I haven't been able to run this map because I've seen as high as 15psi.

I'm tuned with ecutek. Boost through the ECU. My tuner said the SCG1 BC I had installed wasnt working properly so we switched over to boost through the ECU. It's still plumbed in and I use it as my boost/AFR gauge. As for where its plumbed into. I'm not entirely sure. I tapped the manifold for boost pressure.

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...lumbing-2.html

So people are not using the yellow spring? What spring are they using??

You use whatever spring combo that nets your desired wastegate pressure. I use my Greddy Profec in the same manner since I also have boost by ECU. Seeing as the solenoid is opened by a signal from a map sensor its reading manifold pressure which is also where your boost reference for the controller is tapped up front. That reference for me is also split with a 5psi hobbs switch and the fuel pressure regulator.

This is what I need to know as well. My tuner recommend the red spring

Yes, you can use any spring you want, as long as the car is tuned for it.

As for "boost creep", I am not sure that it is understood. Boost creep is an uncontrolled increase in boost as the RPM's go up. So if you are starting at say 8psi at 4k RPM, and hitting 12psi by 7k RPM, then it is considered boost creep.

I have not had any customer experience boost creep, this includes the local guys, where I installed the same kit you guys are running.

That is exactly what I'm getting ^. Especially in 3rd and 4th gear between 5k and 7k RPMs

There has to be an issue somewhere in the plumbing. I see the power output in your signature, is that where the issues is, or is it when you are just on spring pressure, with the EBP installed, but bypassed when only on spring?

I had my shop do a vacuum leak test today and he found no leaks.Right now the EBC is plumbed in but not being utilized. It's running on spring pressure and I believe completely bypasses the EBC. I'm installing the red wastegate springs today and replacing a faulty O2 sensor. I'll be getting an updated tune as well. Hopefully that fixes my issue. I'll keep everyone posted.

Just because , did you keep the Greddy solenoid? I replaced mine with an aftermarket just in case. Wanted to start out fresh. Can't be wiring because the polarity doesn't matter when splicing to the evap.

Its actually a innovate SCG-1. I'm not 100% what solenoid it is but it is still on the car. After reading more threads and remembering my EBC didnt work properly. I'm beginning to think that this is a plumbing issue. I plumbed in the vacuum lines per sashas instruction manual. I had a shop do the boost controller plumbing after. I'm wondering now if the reason my tuner could never get it to function properly was because it was plumbed incorrectly. Still somewhat abnormal considering the car ran great for a while after it was tuned. If the WG springs and 02 sensor doesnt cure my boost creep problem I might just have the boost controller solenoid removed and the plumbing completely redone.

My setup with boost by ECU has only one vacuum line teed going to the lower wastegates from the solenoid. Previously on the EBC it was this. ( very easy for you to verify on your own.)

How does Ecutek control the solenoid? Do you have to wire it into the ECU?

My EBC is plumbed (not sure if my ports are the same on the solenoid) the same way as yours but obviously my solenoid runs to my controller.

The signal to the Evap control solenoid is hijacked and the signal sent to the boost control solenoid. Simple splice of the two evap solenoid wires redirected to the boost solenoid.

BP turbo build/advice
 

I always wondered how that worked. That’s pretty simple and wouldn’t require me ordering anything else assuming you can use any solenoid.

I assume the solenoid is just a milliamp signal that translates into percentage open.

Yup initially I used the Greddy solenoid but switched it out for a new one. Just two wires and done. The only other item was a 4bar map sensor.

That’s a plug in from the Juke sensor, right?

Not sure I got mine from Seb.

As I save up money for the parts I need i'm just trying to tidy up some things. I have a relay in the battier with a green light; It has two blue lines, a black line and a red line. Can anyone tell me what these lines are for? I can see that one red line goes to the battery with a fuse and is junction to run the the relay and pump. The black is junction and runs to the ground on the battery. One of the blue goes no were and the second one is junctioned to a yellow wire. thanks in advance.

P.S. I also don't see any of this wiring in the the BP manual.

Are you referring to the fuel pump relay or the exa pump?

It could be the fuel pump relay. It has a green light on it and it is in my pictures above. I found a blue wire not even connected was trying to make sure it was wired correct.

I don’t see any pictures unless it’s pages back.

With the fuel pump relay, there are two wires that go to the fuel pump, one to ground, and another to the battery.

If you have a picture, please post it or send it to me and I will tell you what goes where.

https://imgur.com/a/a3kTjTN

Here ya go. The relay is by the bat neg terminal.

That’s not what my fuel pump relay looks like.