The relay is not in the picture, just the way they wired it. Ill take a picture of it better when I get home. I don't get why the relay and pump and merged together, and why they ran the ground wire all the way back to the bat. Shouldn't they have just grounded it by the pump to the frame and then tap a 12 v source that turns on withe the accessory?

For those with built motors out there which turbo are you running? I have a built 10.5:1 engine that I'm about to swap in. Was curious what others were running. Maybe sasha can chime in. Shooting for 750whp so I don't run into head gasket issues.

Should be fine with head gaskets at that power level. Once you want to make over 800 wheel I would wait to see how cjms conversion works oit

Anyone hear from sasha latel? Sent him a PM but haven't heard anything for a while

Sorry, missed the PM....replied.

Sasha, I emailed you about some parts a week or two back that I need to get a price on to order.

Thanks in advance,

Lengthy reply sent.

Well, as for my car i'm still saving up some money. I changing jobs and considering ats v coupe or to fix this. Did anyone test drive one?

Well I back, going to try to get the bat-mobile back up running. I got engaged and took some trips so... the bat-mobile fell to the wayside. To recap the oil pump went and took out the turbo; it also filled my intake piping with oil. At this point I have the car apart and just received my oil pump from Turbo-Werx. I did have to pay for a new one but they did give me a discount and worked with me, props to them. My next task was to follow the wiring of the pump and see if that played a part in this problem. In the directions I have it says pump wire to add a circuit direct. In my car i have a 80 amp relay fed by a 30 fuse off the battery.This relay has a blue wire that is MIA in the engine bay and the other wires taped off. Is this wired correct or should it just be red to the add a circuit and the black to a grounding source. Also please no, "who installed it, your noob, read more, ect..." Maybe Boosted Performance can chime in?

Had the same thing happen. Make sure to clean the intercooler too. Mine had a ton of oil in it and I had to dunk it in about 40 dollars worth of gasoline to clean it out.

Did you every find out what happened? and do you have the relay for the pump? I wondering if they wired in the fuel pump and oil pump on that relay for easy install.

First time was my fault. When I popped my motor, I had debris in the line that got into the exapump and destroyed the gears. I had a small incident on the new pump with the wiring being pinched and shorted on install of the new block. I really wished I had a Comp oiless at that time. Outside that no problems.

Is there a reason i can not use the ETS A open fuse postion right next to the battery? I have a relay that seems to have no reason to be there. I was going to get a new add a circuit, plug it in to the open Ets a socket and solder the wires together. Then just us the return/ground right to the battery terminal. They way its wired now is thirty amp fuse to the bat, then to an 80 amp relay then to my oil pump. I paid for the install and am going to do the work myself now since there needs some things ironed out. Thank you in advance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zpG...32MoHm&index=1


Here is a quick link to what i did to fix part of my install. They are quick and short vids, hopefully they can help someone that might have the same questions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zpG...32MoHm&index=1


Updated the vids with three short ones, (oil sump playlist). It shows some of the work to finish up the electrical wiring. Cool stuff about the charge resistor, you can even put up to a 2 gauge . Still need to figuer out how I want to use the power side with the fusible link. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Quick update, I sent out the turbo today and got some good news. If its only the seals that are bad it should be under 400 bucks to fix; lets hope so. I also just finished setting up a quick jack so I can have some more room to work. You can see a quick vid if you follow the link above. They seem to be a lot easier to work with than jack stands and a jack. Next step will be to get four of my buds to come push the car in so I can prep her. I still need to clean out most of the pipes and replace two 02's and a innovate afr gauge sensor. Still progress is progress.

I was finally able to get the car back in the garage and up on my new quick-jacks! I am now waiting for the turbo to be returned. While waiting the plan is to clean out the rest of the pipes. Then try to find a way to put in a small cat so I can easily pass emission. There is a video of the room underneath the car if anyone was thinking about purchasing a jack. Please just follow the link above.

Does anyone have part numbers for the upstream and downstream o2's? I just want to make sure I get the right ones. I think I am going to get oem; I have ngt right now. Also if boosted performance could chime in and just verify which o2's I need up steam or downstream? I'm not to do confident they put in the right ones.

Dayumm! Sasha you're still around? Gotta pm you. I was one of the first to run your kit on my 2nd 350. Now heading back to page 1 to learn

Quick update. I was going to clean the exhaust out but i found that they muffed up the wiring for the gauges. I ended up fixing the wiring and plumbing but need to finish up the oil and temp one. It is giving me a issue. If you watch my vid you can see a really good spot to drill into the car to run some wires for your audio equipment or for fuel pump wiring.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpEyKgke2rM&t=1s

Late post but you need the upstream O2 sensors for sure. Downstream sensors only monitor cat health and have been known to potentially cause idling issues in BP kits. You can easily remove these (Sasha includes plugs) but consult your tuner first as he has to disable the CEL and some tuners like the downstream O2 sensors for doing their stuff. Go OEM for sure.

yea i just bought two new downstream 02's. I dont use them at all but since i had to do the work might as well put them in. I have the 02's turned off in the computer so no worries there.

Quick up date, the car is alive! i have to finish up loose ends and then start to test the work I did. I need to make sure oil gets to the scavenge pump, test the greddy boost controller,(which seems to be working), and then burn off any of the oil I missed in the pipes. After that a really good detail and deep cleaning. DMV is closed here in CT so no idea when it will be on the road... I hope to have her on the road for my b day barring any unforeseen items pop up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23ie1Bkv-yc&t=4s

Here a link to the vid were i got yelled at by my better half after I started the car and made the house smell like oil and exhaust lol.

All you need to do is make sure the pump is running (in the right direction). If it is you are good to go. You can always double check at the reservoir by loosening the AN fitting, you will hear vacuum being pulled by the pump.

I got her up and running then found out the hose from the exit of the oil pump to the oil pan is leaking/dry rotted out. Can you tell me the lane and size fittings? I need to buy a new one, thank you.

It is -6AN female on both ends.

I was able to cut off the bad part of the hose and reattach the fitting working great now. The next step is after i burn the tank of gas to hit boost and do another check!

Quick update, I was able to hit boost; she hit 9lbs! I didn't go much past that, just wanted to check my work out. After the test drive a oil hose needed to be tightened. Today is brake bleeding and getting some gas. After working on the brakes I noticed the coil-overs need to be rebuilt at some point; they also need to be readjusted. One side used the tube extension and the other side used spring compression to adjust the height ;(. I bought new/used 285 DWS conti's with 15 mm spacers as well. This should give me a extra 2mm out back so there is a little more breathing room from fender to wheel. Hopefully DMV will open in a week or two so the wife and I can take a cruise once the quarantine is over.

well..... another problem came up.

My first two rides went great; on my third ride I went to give it full throttle and it fell flat on its face. No boost, and a lot of lag. I didn't want to push it after that so I took it home. It now just doesn't build boost anymore if at all and when I give it gas it falls on its face. It will build boost at random times or when I go first to second 3/4 throttle it seems to work, then when I hit third it just dies. Really looking for ideas what it could be or what I should look at. Here is a list of things that have been tired,

1. Put a new hose and stiffer spring on the BOV
2. Check to see if the turbo is spinning free with my hand(it is).
3. I checked both waste gates to see if they were stuck open and they would work when given pressure. I just pushed on the valve with my finger.
4. I reran the vacuum hose with new z1 line.
5. I have looked for leaks on the cold side by looking at the t-bolt clamps and trying to move them with force. I also checked to make sure they were tight.

I think I will take the cold side apart and check to make sure i put it on tight but any suggestions would be appreciated.

Don't put a stiff spring in the BOV. The engine vacuum at idle, when warm is what determines your BOV spring. Putting a stiffer spring than the vacuum can open, will cause issues.

Double check that your wastegate lines are connected properly. That is more than likely your issue. TB port to lower ports of the wastegates, and make sure all other ports at the bottom half of the wastegates are close. Leave one port open at the top. There is something wrong there for sure.

I'll check again, but i have the lower ports connected and the top ports open to air. I didn't check to make sure all the plugs are in. Great idea, Just to make sure I used a 5mm silicon hose for the vacuum, that is appropriate correct? Also shouldn't the gate work with just spring pressure if there is no pressure at the bottom of the port?

No. If you aren’t applying pressure to the bottom port of the gate it would never open. The WG opens based on turbo pressure, or manifold pressure, depending on where you are taking the source. The exhaust gasses in the piping, pushing on the valve seat of the WG, are basically at atmosphere since it’s open all the way out of the muffler. That’s simple hydraulics.

^^^^ Correct

Kit comes with 6mm silicone hose, but 5mm should not make a difference.

I did get five and its really tough to get it on, I might just get a 6mm. even that is a little tight. Would that cause the gate not to work?

what are the best spark plugs to get for the kit, is it still the gtr plugs?

6mm (1/4") is the correct size.


GTR plugs.

I took off and popped open the waste gates again. I redid the clocking of the gate, clean the cap,s off and put on new tape, etc... One of the diaframes looks to have three creases and I would like to replace it. I measured the valve and it came out to 38 mm, I want to make sure that is the correct size so I order the right part. Once again thanks for all the help BP!

Contact Tial, these are MV-S wastegates. They will all have the same internals.

thank you again

here is there website for part numbers

http://tialsport.com/documents/EXPLODED%20MVS.pdf

Here is there actual website to buy the parts,

https://tialsport-outlet.com/

these are all from tial so you know you are getting legit parts, which is a big deal to me.

Well.... I have fixed the problem... by getting two new waste-gates. The waste-gates were pretty beat up. I bought new o' ring's, diaphragms, and new springs, but it still wouldn't seal right. Seems like sitting for 9 months just made them trashed. Either way she is up and running and good to go. I'll post a vid of what they waste gates look like. Is it normal for gate to go after around 4 years?