No but all the SC kits I've seen for this platform use self contained oil.

Jayhovah, were you able to retain the stock crash bar after Gamma sent you the spacers? Also were there anything else OEM you weren't able to keep like that washer tank?

I haven't had any time to work on the car since I returned.

To Do list:
Refit Crash Bar
Swap GTR spark plugs
Go through EVAP hoses/solenoid (have thrown EVAP code twice)
Check all intake manifold/vac connections (wobbly idle)

That's just the 'kit completion' list... The OTHER list goes on and on...
Boost Gauge
Stainless clutch line
RJM Pedal (thinking about it, tony!)
homelink mirror / radar mount
Brainiac
Sub box
etc
etc
ETC

Wobbly idle - Are you still running the post-CAT O2 sensors? Do you have CATs?

Homelink mirror tap - I had to rebuy the tap itself as I broke one of the prongs trying to force it in there. It's a really tight fit. I recommend using a thumb tack as an aid to open up enough space to slide the tap in.

I am running test pipes, but have all the o2 sensors connected. Think this might be affecting the idle?

I think the idle is one of two things:
1) Related to the EVAP leak codes
2) Barb installed on back of intake manifold (I didn't do the worlds greatest job drilling/tapping for this).

I don't quite understand what you are talking about for the homelink mirror tap? Do you mean to tap power for the radar detector? I run a separate circuit for the radar power... I followed this mod:
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...te-button.html

I pulled all that wiring out of the totaled car, just need to reinstall into the new one.

My idle always hunted until I pulled the post-CAT O2 sensors completely out of the car. Even though I had the code turned off the ECU must still use them for something. Unplugged them, replaced the sensor with O2 bung plugs and the idle cleared right up.

Never mind. I have this

MirrorTap Radar Detector Power Cords

Thanks. Also this is insignificant but do you hear the blow off value when you let off the throttle?

F^ck yeah I do. =) It sounds awesome.

Great tip and super easy to test! I will check this first =)
Now if only I had time to do anything on the car!

That Brainiac system looks dope as hell!! I just voted.

Sorry for all the questions. But you've sparked my interest to do DIY install again. My story is similar to yours. Got a Eclipse GSX in college, swapped engine and it never ran right again, too strapped for cash to do fix things right, sold it and never looked back.

As for my question, what turbo does it use. Gamma website speaks of 16G, 18G and 20G.

My Brainiac erection has far exceeded 4 hours! I was already gathering parts for a tablet install.. now the Nexus 9 I bought will be going on ebay and the wait for Brainiac begins.

Ask all the questions you want. I wouldn't have gotten anywhere without the support of this forum -- which is why I finally upgraded to premium membership. There are only a couple of us on here with this kit so far (and AFAIK I am the only one that is up and running at the moment), so every question you ask will help someone else's search results in the future.

The gamma website is in dire need of an update. It looks to be a paste of an old GTM parts list from when the V3 kit was supposed to use MHI turbos in it's least expensive form. The MHI turbos have been ditched - my kit came with Garrett GT2860RS turbos (IIRC).

My AFR used to hunt too. Pulling the O2 cleared that up too:tup:

I hear mine all the time too. The noise I hear the most is turbine spool and the compressor surge as it unloads. Both beautiful!

Great! You are on Ecutek too, right?

Nope. Still on UpRev. I'm switching to Ecutek but holding off on all mods while oil is less than $30

Ohh yeah!! You can feel the car wanting to fly down the road right around 3k revs. Nudge it to 3200 revs and you feel and hear the turbine nicely! :driving::driving: The turbine is actually really loud when she spools. My brother says it's louder than my exhaust. :tiphat:

YzGyz

I'm going to post a vid in the turbo vid thread as soon as I can find it.

YzGyz

I've been in NYC for work this week.. and I'm already boost-sick. =( Luckily I go home tomorrow afternoon.

Subbed for updates!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I promise I will update with all my pics and stuff. I have been dragging my feet on that.

Update - 3 Months being boosted:
Everything runs just as well as the day we tuned. There are a couple of lingering gremlins I hope to tackle soon (I literally have not turned a screw on the car related to the turbo kit since we finished):

TO DO:
Figure out Exhaust Leaks:
I get some exhaust in the cabin with the vent turned on to fresh air. I know one source is my Invidia exhaust has these little spring loaded slip-on flanges where they hook up to my test pipes. No doubt they were fine before, but the exhaust doesn't really fit quite right and there is some tension pulling on these joints.
I believe the culprit is some combo of the Gamma o2 housings (that come off the turbos and are supposed to have an exit-flange position the same as the factory manifolds) and my cheap ebay test pipes. Groove has Z1 TP's and his exhaust is slightly off as well. My current plan is to swap in some GTM TP's (bought second hand in the classifieds) and if it's still off, have an exhaust shop modify them to remove the tension from the system. Should be easy enough, and hopefully that is my only exhaust leak source.

Properly mount crash bar:
Never got this properly fitted. Gamma did send me the spacers and hardware I was missing for it.

Chase down P0456 code
I occasionally get this EVAP related code. I need to check out the EVAP line coming in near the pass turbo and going up to the intake manifold and purge solinoid. I also might make sure the fuel pump top plate is sitting right and that the gasket is clean. In 2013 they started covering that plate with this horrible black tar crap and it may be keeping the gasket surface from sealing properly even though we thought we cleaned it all out.

Install GTR Spark plugs
I haven't gotten the misfire code since it happened the first time during my drive back to FL from TX... but I still need to get this done.

Remove post-cat o2 sensors
My idle wobbles a little on and off, jwick suggests these could be the culprit. JTRAN confirmed I have no use for them, so I will remove them.

I've got a 3-day weekend and my girl is our of town, so I am hoping to spend some time working these items soon! Unfortunately its not the only thing that requires attention:
*My garage is a disaster and I need to reorganize, preferably before I put the Z up on stands.
*Redoing my TV/Projector/Screen setup in my living room.
*Fixing little issues with my new (to me) Ford Ranger which I just bought as a second vehicle because boosted Z. =)

Well.. First and last items are crossed off the list. I swapped my ebay test pipes out for some second hand GTM test pipes and everything fits much better now. Took out the post-cat o2 sensors too.

For those of you that have removed them, how did you protect the wire harness connectors from the elements? It would be nice if I could just buy the o2-side connectors to plug in and leave unconnected... I don't want to clip the plugs off my o2 sensors.

Edit: One other thing.. I've sprung a slight oil leak around the factory oil pressure sensor... So add that to the list.

I just wrapped the plugs with Thermo-Tec heat tape

I'm not sure we are on the same page.... The plugs are just open now since the sensors are not connected and I am just wanting to protect the open connectors from moisture. Is that what you were going for too? Were you able to seal with tape?

I might just cover them with plastic and wrap over them with electrical tape.

Same condition on mine and I just wrapped the wires with thermo-Tec heat sleeve and then used the tape for the end.

Got a few things done on the car tday...

Finally swapped my OEM plugs out for GTR plugs today. I never threw another misfire code since it happened when I drove her home.... but better safe!

Installed a CJM fuel tap with mini fuel pressure gauge. My fuel pressure at idle is just over 60psi. Searching through some of phunk's posts it appears I may need to drill the venturi on the fuel pump assembly. Anyone skip doing this? What is the downside of not doing it? Will I need a retune if I do drill it? Car seems to run fine so I am not sure what the purpose is.

Put in the boost sensor for my Depo boost gauge. Maybe I'll actually figure out how much boost I am running before the end of the summer!

Also got the tow bar fitted properly, but took it back off as I still need to figure out how to mount my AL Priority heads. On my 350z I made up some easy aluminum brackets attached to the tow bar for my LI heads and it worked out well so I am thinking I may do something similar.

Near term to do (enough to reassemble and drive again:
Finish mounting the AL heads, get the tow bar on and the front bumper back on.
Run wires into interior for the boost sensor, AL heads, and an amp kit power wire(might as well pull them all through the main harness boot at the same time).

Farther term to do:
Install boost gauge.
Install AL control box
Install some kind of stereo upgrade.

A couple of other notes:
When I had my engine cover, strut brace, and throttle bodies out I went over all the EVAP lines in the back of the engine compartment.. Everything looked OK so I think my recurring P0456 code is coming from where those lines meet the hardline on the body by the passenger side turbo. Getting to where those two lines meet is a bit of a PITA, but I don't feel like anything is being harmed because of it so I will put that off for another time. Probably the day when I start to get irritated with the periodic SES light.

Once that is resolved, (now that I have fixed the exhaust leaks, put in GTR plugs, and fitted the crash bar) I will have ironed out all the wrinkles and can finally call this kit installation complete! Looks like it may be a while though before I get to it. =/

Few more items done today.... I spoke too soon on the tow bar and strangely enough, something so simple continued to be an issue for me. I dont really understand why I am the only one who had issues with it.. but after the Gamma spacers and the thickness of the tow bar itself, there were only like 1.5 threads to grab onto for the 4 inner nuts... Add on to that my pass side intercooler seems to stick out a few extra mm and wont clear the tow bar with those spacers anyhow...

So I ended up using a myriad of washers, coupling nuts, and bolts I finally got the thing torqued down solidly.

I also mounted my AL Priority heads on the bumper grill and got the bumper back on.. and ran the AL wiring, boost sensor wiring, and amp power wiring through the main harness boot and into the cabin.

Still need to install my Garageline hoodstruts, replace all the undertray hardware and reinstall, and weather proof the o2 sensor plugs before I can lower it back to the floor and drive it again... It's been on stands for almost a month and I am in an emergency state of boost withdrawal. The powerless beater pickup just doesn't scratch the itch!

The mystery is over... I finally know how much boost I am making. ~8.5psi

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RF...=w1055-h791-no

Finished installing that (sort of... temporary mount on top of the cluster until I fab up a pillar mount)... and also the AL Priority setup and some GarageLine hood struts. Felt so nice to drive the car again, its been on stands getting this little stuff done for a month! Still need to mount the fire extinguisher and then I'll turn my attention to the stereo in the near term.

Looks like that 8.5psi is based on the spring pressure... Most gears that seems to be the peak.

This morning I did a full throttle run all the way to the rev limit in 4th gear and got all the way to 11psi. I am guessing at that point I am out flowing the wastegates and spiking a little.

So as it stands, I am probably at the limit of both my fuel system and wastegates... so if I ever wanted more power it would be a reasonably pricey path forward as both of those would have to be upgraded at a minimum... And my invidia exhaust is only 60mm so I would probably consider upgrading that too. Seems like I'm probably done with performance mods for a while!

Is that kit internally gated?

yup.

I've finally sorted through my pics and videos and posted them up... Just like your mom with you, it took me 9 months to birth this thread:http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ideo-dump.html

Remember this moment?
At the time, I actually forced Johnny to reenact it for video.

He is not a skilled actor.



For the rest of the pics and videos, visit this thread:
http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ideo-dump.html

Johnny is a character... Cool guy but a character... My go to guy/shop.

YzGyz

Just wanted to report some excellent customer service from Gamma.

I have never been able to get the oil feed distribution block area completely leak free and have been considering piecing together something custom from summit, or getting the CJM oil feed distribution block (much cleaner design IMO).

I emailed Gamma support to ask for the fitting sizes - Amin recognized me and answered me personally. He immediately offered to send me a replacement distribution block and fittings. Got them in the other day... and he basically sent me every oil related fitting on the kit including turbo drain nipples, etc. They were missing a couple of the feed fittings, but I emailed back and they are already on the way to me.

Thanks Gamma!

Made up a washer bottle to replace the OEM reservoir which was deleted to make room for the passenger side air filter.

Wrote a DIY here:
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...r-boosted.html

http://www.the370z.com/members/jayho...113-233748.jpg

So whats better out of Gamma TT 500HP kit and the AAM Stage 1 TT?

I don't have any experience with the AAM kit, but they both seem to be great kits. I am very happy with my Gamma kit.

The AAM kit has those fancy Borg Warner turbos.

The Gamma kit is nice in that you can install it without pulling the motor.

Yea I am just wondering if the extra $1.5-2K price tag on the AAM is really worth it.

My kit has arrived! WOOOOOP!
 

Yes. If only just for the non-cast turbo manifolds.

I think their manifolds are still cast - but cast stainless (still pretty blingy!).