Thanks for all the support Johnny! I couldn't be happier with the experience. Don't forget, I want a sticker!

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Funny thing is that's exactly what Johnny would say!

The original GTM turbo kits had an option for a smaller relocated washer bottle. You might want to call Gamma and ask them if they have one.

Oh and no shock on the stock clutch.

Yupper, Johnny would say that out right to your face then smile. I would yank out every part possible from the old car including OEM parts. Pedal, bezels, floor mats, door panels, entertainment console parts, shifter boot, everything.

Congrats on the car man. I would get a South Bend clutch set. 6 puck, and RJM pedal.

YzGyz

Wow dude, awesome to hear on the insurance. Pretty sure that wouldn't work out that way for anyone else ever.

I've had pretty good luck with my Z1 clutch. Full face disk and it held 465wtq no problem before I retuned to 440wtq.

Don't worry Johnny tells me that every time he sees me, which is a few times a week! :)

I had a Southbend Stage 3 Endurance full face sprung DXD and the pedal was slightly stiffer than OEM but it still had smooth and quiet engagement making it easy to drive daily. However, it started slipping eventually when I was at 560whp/525wtq. I believe they are good to 500wtq so it should hold for you, but if you plan to go higher than I would recommend getting an upgraded pressure plate. Also, don't forget to get a lighter billet flywheel along with it.

Currently, I am on a Southbend Stage 3 Drag (6 puck) with upgraded pressure plate. I was told it should hold 800+ wtq and am currently at 678wtq. It has been holding quite well, but is a heavier and kind of twitchy. Even with the RJM pedal there is a grabbiness to it that makes it slightly cumbersome in daily stop and go driving. I am told it isn't as bad as a Clutchmasters, but there are still some nuances that take some getting used to.

Still haven't decided on the clutch, but I am leaning towards the Z1 full face that jwick has.

I noticed that most people upgrade to a light flywheel with their clutch. I understand it's kind of a "already in there, why not upgrade?" situation but for a street car I am not sure I see the big value in what is essentially a $800 unsprung weight savings that will be noisy and slightly more difficult to drive in traffic... Am I missing something here? (You guys have probably already determined that I am kind of a cheap b@stard)

Feel free to weigh in!

Edit: Some Gamma related notes...
They are going to send me all the little parts I was missing.. notably: The correct spacers and hardware for the crash bar (so that I can install it properly, right now just being held on with 4 bolts), and also the power steering lines I was missing (they are abrasion resistant unlike the rubber lines I sourced from O'Reilly's).

They are also going to refund $350 (cost of uprev license and cable) since they couldn't get their Ecutek tune sorted out before my build and I went to JTRAN anyway. They did say they are a little strapped for cash right now, so I might have to be patient... or that they would give me store credit I could use immediately. I opted to wait for cash. So far, Amin has been pretty straight with me so I feel good that they will take care of me. I'll probably email them to see what clutches they stock since I am in the market anyway.

Don't cheap out on supporting mods it will only cost you mony in the future. You have spent a lot of money already for pretty special car if you want to look at it more than driving it then do it on the cheap. I would trust jwick's judgment. If you plan on anymore horsepower down the line, get a clutch a flywheel that can hold the power. I had to upgrade my clutch and fly wheel again when I went flex fuel. That is the thing about being boosted, you should over build and mind the limitations of the eternals.

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I'm all for that sentiment - but I don't quite understand how upgrading to a lighter flywheel protects me down the line from any kind of failure. To me, a lighter flywheel is about eeking every last bit of performance out of the motor/drivetrain. Is this an incorrect assumption?

I do not plan on doing any more power mods down the line - this car is a street car first and foremost and I think increasing the power any further comes with a disproportionate increase in failure risks.

If you're ok with some chatter, the flywheel is a very noticeable change. The car revs much more freely.

You are correct in that it is a performance upgrade, but it add to efficiency of your build. I have gotten over the chatter as it's only from a dead stop that it is noticeable. The Z is a noisy car period so with every suspension or driveline upgrade comes a new and different noise. Speaking of noise, if you didn't do your rear diff bushing I would suggest that you do that as well to get rid of wheel under hard acceleration. Lol, once you start down the road of being boosted it becomes like a boat...bring on another thousand. :p:p:p

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Exactly what I was going to say. Also if you buy the Z1 setup it comes as a package (pressure plate, disc and flywheel) for under $800. Think I paid $775ish.

Thought it was 'Bust out another thousand' :rofl2:

I also second the rear diff bushing. Helps with shifts and wheel hop.

But farm that install out cuz it SUCKS!!!!

Old school vs the new, but anyway you spell it it is still a BOAT!

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I had never heard that **** before until Counts Customs Horny Mike said it.

Bring.Out.Another.Thou lmaooo. The Z1combo and that diff bushing. Worthy mods.


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I'd really like to avoid the chatter.. I really love how quiet the car is now and everything feels really factory. There was a time in my life I would have relished the chatter of a light flywheel (because racecar) but I've grown out of it. I have friends that often refer to me as a 70 year old man in a 34 year old body. The Z1 package is really reasonable though! Great deal.. just don't think it's for me. I need to find a reputable place to get the work done here in Tampa Bay... I wish I could just drop it off at JTRAN.

This is a good idea! I'll have to put this on the list for when I start experiencing some wheel hop. Hate wheel hop.

I don't think mine chatters much more with the lightweight flywheel than it did with the factory one. These aren't quiet cars to begin with.

Check RJ manufacturing in Tampa. Ask for Bobby. He used to work at Vortex/VSR Motorsports


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You get over the noise. The improvement in responsiveness is well worth it. The stock dual mass flywheel is a POS.

Oh hell no. That asshat should be legally barred from working on people's cars. He's a dishonest hack.

My kit has arrived! WOOOOOP!
 

:iagree:

I'd just assume set my car on fire than let Bobby touch it.

I would contact Forge Performance in Atlanta about using Endless gear oil. I hear it's really good and cuts down on the fly wheel chatter. If you are will to drive Forge is a great shop to work with.

Well then... that escalated quickly....

how about about Induction Performance? Found them on the ECUTEK website...

Give Joe at ZSpeed a call. I'm pretty sure he's got an option to keep the flywheel chatter down even if you upgrade from the stock flywheel.

You guys are a bunch of pushy Mofo's - you know that? :shakes head:

I'll be ordering the Z1 clutch/flywheel package. :driving: Found a shop local to me that has some good reviews and I just stopped by to check it out. Looks clean, rates were reasonable, and most importantly, there were a lot of REALLY nice cars around (Benz's, a G35, bunch of Porches and Bimmers, etc).

:icon17:

I think you will be happy with the lightweight flywheel regardless of the chatter :D

^^^Agreed to yours and JAR's comments. It's because we don't want you to make the same costly mistakes we have!

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Jon @ Z1 is recommending the 6-puck clutch for me. Do any of you guys have it? I fear it will be too grabby and make DD a little more painful. My girlfriend also needs to be able to drive and she isn't skilled with a manual.

You have less torque than I do so I think you'll be fine with the full face disk.

This one of the reasons I recommend to people if you ate going to go fi have a second car to use when you need to work on your car or for computing if you have a lot of traffic to deal with. Yes a 6 puck is nothing like an oem clutch. It is grabber and the clutch pedal pressure is higher. It will take a little practice to get use to it and it will build calf and thigh muscles if you drive it a lot in traffic.

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Also you may want to consider the SpecialtyZ Street Max clutch. I know they have improved it and it is a full face clutch as well. I had one before upgrading to the 6 puck. The chatter is less and it works pretty close to oem. You can also either change out your clutch helper spring to a less stiff one or remove it completely and that will help you with the feel of the pedal. I have had mine removed for two years with no problems.

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Yep.. I am going to go with the full face. Jon's concern was if I would be doing any power shifting and... seeing as how I have never power shifted before in my life, it doesn't seem that I will be starting now. I don't really abuse my cars... again.. 75 year old man in a 34 year old body. =)

Don't mean to be a smart a$$ but why did you go FI then?

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Think I'm going Clutchmasters if I ever have to upgrade. Which I guess will be soon after E85 upgrade.

That was exactly why I had to upgrade. Although the clutch never failed, but on 100 octane and 552tq it would start to stink if I made more than a couple of hard runs. I could only do two runs in a row at the airport the day before ZDayZ last year.

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No offense taken! =)
I've always wanted to do a build like this. It's been a dream since I was a teenager and swapped the motor on my '87 RX-7 Turbo. That car never really ran properly and I had to sell it to get something reliable in college... I am older and smarter now (with slightly deeper pockets), and I just wanted to build a nice, powerful, street car that I could really enjoy. That is why I am generally averse to things like lightened flywheels and 6-puck clutches - I am after a fast, factory feeling street car and anything that harms driveability has to be well thought out in my eyes... Since the full face clutch holds the power and will be the easiest to drive, I don't mind giving up flat-foot shifting and burnouts since those are not things I was ever really in to anyway. Make sense?

Right on, there are plenty of folks that just want feel the power and play a little when they want too. And I totally get building your own vs just buying it. According to my wife im in total retard mode when it comes to the Z....she is pretty much right. Anyway, I'm glad you have posted up on the forum. Your journey will help others out as well.

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Pretty much nailed it on the head right there. I really do hope I am able to contribute to the community with my experience! I do text a little with Groove about little hiccups with this kit, but he is working through it so fast it's making me look bad. Where the F is your build thread, Groove!? =)

Edit: Found his build thread =)
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...les-build.html

My kit has arrived! WOOOOOP!
 

I don't do burnouts or flat foot shift either and the full face disk has done everything I've asked if it.