Don't worry Johnny tells me that every time he sees me, which is a few times a week! :)

I had a Southbend Stage 3 Endurance full face sprung DXD and the pedal was slightly stiffer than OEM but it still had smooth and quiet engagement making it easy to drive daily. However, it started slipping eventually when I was at 560whp/525wtq. I believe they are good to 500wtq so it should hold for you, but if you plan to go higher than I would recommend getting an upgraded pressure plate. Also, don't forget to get a lighter billet flywheel along with it.

Currently, I am on a Southbend Stage 3 Drag (6 puck) with upgraded pressure plate. I was told it should hold 800+ wtq and am currently at 678wtq. It has been holding quite well, but is a heavier and kind of twitchy. Even with the RJM pedal there is a grabbiness to it that makes it slightly cumbersome in daily stop and go driving. I am told it isn't as bad as a Clutchmasters, but there are still some nuances that take some getting used to.

Still haven't decided on the clutch, but I am leaning towards the Z1 full face that jwick has.

I noticed that most people upgrade to a light flywheel with their clutch. I understand it's kind of a "already in there, why not upgrade?" situation but for a street car I am not sure I see the big value in what is essentially a $800 unsprung weight savings that will be noisy and slightly more difficult to drive in traffic... Am I missing something here? (You guys have probably already determined that I am kind of a cheap b@stard)

Feel free to weigh in!

Edit: Some Gamma related notes...
They are going to send me all the little parts I was missing.. notably: The correct spacers and hardware for the crash bar (so that I can install it properly, right now just being held on with 4 bolts), and also the power steering lines I was missing (they are abrasion resistant unlike the rubber lines I sourced from O'Reilly's).

They are also going to refund $350 (cost of uprev license and cable) since they couldn't get their Ecutek tune sorted out before my build and I went to JTRAN anyway. They did say they are a little strapped for cash right now, so I might have to be patient... or that they would give me store credit I could use immediately. I opted to wait for cash. So far, Amin has been pretty straight with me so I feel good that they will take care of me. I'll probably email them to see what clutches they stock since I am in the market anyway.

Don't cheap out on supporting mods it will only cost you mony in the future. You have spent a lot of money already for pretty special car if you want to look at it more than driving it then do it on the cheap. I would trust jwick's judgment. If you plan on anymore horsepower down the line, get a clutch a flywheel that can hold the power. I had to upgrade my clutch and fly wheel again when I went flex fuel. That is the thing about being boosted, you should over build and mind the limitations of the eternals.

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I'm all for that sentiment - but I don't quite understand how upgrading to a lighter flywheel protects me down the line from any kind of failure. To me, a lighter flywheel is about eeking every last bit of performance out of the motor/drivetrain. Is this an incorrect assumption?

I do not plan on doing any more power mods down the line - this car is a street car first and foremost and I think increasing the power any further comes with a disproportionate increase in failure risks.

If you're ok with some chatter, the flywheel is a very noticeable change. The car revs much more freely.

You are correct in that it is a performance upgrade, but it add to efficiency of your build. I have gotten over the chatter as it's only from a dead stop that it is noticeable. The Z is a noisy car period so with every suspension or driveline upgrade comes a new and different noise. Speaking of noise, if you didn't do your rear diff bushing I would suggest that you do that as well to get rid of wheel under hard acceleration. Lol, once you start down the road of being boosted it becomes like a boat...bring on another thousand. :p:p:p

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Exactly what I was going to say. Also if you buy the Z1 setup it comes as a package (pressure plate, disc and flywheel) for under $800. Think I paid $775ish.

Thought it was 'Bust out another thousand' :rofl2:

I also second the rear diff bushing. Helps with shifts and wheel hop.

But farm that install out cuz it SUCKS!!!!

Old school vs the new, but anyway you spell it it is still a BOAT!

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I had never heard that **** before until Counts Customs Horny Mike said it.

Bring.Out.Another.Thou lmaooo. The Z1combo and that diff bushing. Worthy mods.


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I'd really like to avoid the chatter.. I really love how quiet the car is now and everything feels really factory. There was a time in my life I would have relished the chatter of a light flywheel (because racecar) but I've grown out of it. I have friends that often refer to me as a 70 year old man in a 34 year old body. The Z1 package is really reasonable though! Great deal.. just don't think it's for me. I need to find a reputable place to get the work done here in Tampa Bay... I wish I could just drop it off at JTRAN.

This is a good idea! I'll have to put this on the list for when I start experiencing some wheel hop. Hate wheel hop.

I don't think mine chatters much more with the lightweight flywheel than it did with the factory one. These aren't quiet cars to begin with.

Check RJ manufacturing in Tampa. Ask for Bobby. He used to work at Vortex/VSR Motorsports


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