stock is 3.12 on jack.

When I change the Jack to a 2.75, theres no way to tension the belt.

We would need a smaller belt, which is not made. So the jack has to stay stock!

You wouldn't want to swap that for a smaller one anyway. If you do your back to the same ratio and will not spin faster. But you can go bigger on that jack and then you will and it will work with the belt.

That's right! I didn't think about that!

thanks lol

Update:

By clocking the volute 180* it hits the frame lip. I could cut this lip out and I think it will work. Not sure I want to start cutting into that heavy metal though. I think routing it the way Sasha did is easier. This way you only have to cut plastic. Even if I did cut that metal out I am still not 100% sure it will fit.

Are both of you guys on built motors?


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^^^ I was wondering the same thing. Looks like TopgunZ does for sure. Where did you get your Pistons and Rods from? Im real afraid to go above 10-11 PSI without a built motor. I was at 10.5 and put HFCs on to get me under 10 and will prob be getting LTH's soon.

I am changing mine to air to air with 1000cc injectors( they stopped making 850cc), long tube headers, GTR plugs, 928 impeller and Stillen 9 lb pulley. I'm trying to decide if should add the pulleys on the back side or wait and see how it goes first.


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My motor is in the shop as we speak! They told me 4-5 more weeks.
This will be done next year.

As for 10-11 psi, The Bp kits are pushing 10-11psi with no issues.
Also Remember, at 500 whp they have a 100 more wtq then we will.

Im pretty sure there was a guy running around with 600whp on this forum.
hes on a stock block. If its done right, with a cjm return, tuning etc.. there
shouldn't be any problems.

I like the way you think!

See where your at when your at the dyno, Honestly, it takes 10 minutes to remove the belt/blower. couple more mins to switch the pulleys. You could
always buy the pulleys. Bring them to the dyno, and switch as you need.

This is what ill be doing, I've paid for an extra hour on the dyno for this reason.
aswell as other unforeseen issue that arise.

I have them all on the way here and might do just that. I most likely will not decide until I see what you two do on the dyno. I hope you both make big numbers!


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I'm going to Sebring Oct 3-4 to give this set up a track test.


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In my opinion, the front serpentine pulley should be the last one to downsize. It has the least amount of belt wrap (around 30%). The rear pulleys have over 50% wrap, a belt that is less likely to stretch under load, and are affected less by bracket-flex.

For the sake of minimizing belt-slip, it makes more sense to increase S/C rpms by changing the ratio of the rear pulleys or going with cogs. Or even take it a step further and upsize the front pulley to a high-traction 3.3".

When people start pushing this upgraded kit, the next road block is probably going to be belt-slip.

I'm having a brace built for mine to try to cut down on slipping but you make a good point, maybe I will do the back side a wait on the Stillen 9 lb pulley. Honestly I want do just do it all and say F it but I know that's probably not a good idea. That will probably still be 11-12 lbs.


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My kit is seeing 10.5psi with the Stillen 9 lb pulley and test pipes.