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Alrighty, Sorry for the delay. Weekend after weekend just have not been able to do this project. 100% going to tackle this project tomorrow "sunday" Thank you nevada3 for your
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#1 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Allen
Posts: 46
Drives: 2011 370z 6MT
Rep Power: 12 ![]() |
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Alrighty, Sorry for the delay. Weekend after weekend just have not been able to do this project. 100% going to tackle this project tomorrow "sunday"
Thank you nevada3 for your input. I am hoping this is not the problem I am facing but it sure looks like it. Will have to see when I take this panel off. |
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#2 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Allen
Posts: 46
Drives: 2011 370z 6MT
Rep Power: 12 ![]() |
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Yay! All done. Was pretty easy to fix the side panel. Just needed to some new 3M tape in one area. The other spot towards the back of the panel the two clamps that hold it in place where broken off. Not sure how the hell that happen. That is why that part sticks out a little. It looks a little better.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Now on the the other area. The rear corner panel. This one I can not fig out why its not holding. After taking it a part to get access to the plastic clamp thing. It was not damaged at all. No cracking, all the hooks where fine. Nothing on it was broken. I do not understand why its not holding it correctly. I am thinking I will order a new one and see if that will correct it. I do not know. I took better angle picture. This is the damaged side. ![]() and compared to the normal side. ![]() ![]() ![]() Also while I had the car jacked up I took a look under to see if everything looked normal. All was good till I saw this: ![]() ![]() What could have caused that? |
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#6 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: FL and London UK.
Posts: 1,514
Drives: 2014 370Z Sport.
Rep Power: 18 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Strip out the trunk area and take some pics of the floorpan area and seams with spare and polystyrenes removed.
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#7 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Whales Vagina
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Drives: the speed limit...
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I would imagine the body flexes more with it mangled like that. That sucks op, I would replace that cross member. take it too a shop to have them search for more damage and a quote to fix.
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#9 (permalink) |
Track Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
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had the issue with panel alignment too on my 09 in guam. It was so bad that it was actually chipping and squeezing out paint from in between the panels and causing peeling. had to take it to nissan and have it repainted and the front and rear bumper re aligned. the 13 doesnt have this issue so far. It cost me money too, even though the car was only a year old nissan claimed it wasnt covered under warranty. Another reason for my long list ive mentioned not to allow them to touch your car.
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#10 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 40
Drives: 2013 370z TSC M6
Rep Power: 12 ![]() |
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Glad to see you easily fixed the side skirt. Two things to check on the rear bumper:
1) Look inside the trunk where the black bracket bolts connect to the sheet metal. It is possible one or more of the bolts isn't all the way in causing the bracket (and by extension the bumper) to sit a little further away from the rest of the body. It will be obvious if one of them isn't seated properly, they are either fully locked into place or they aren't locked into place. If all of the bolts are fully extended into the body and the trunk area, inspect the sheet metal immediately surrounding the bracket bolts. Sometimes the sheet metal can be bent outwards just where the bolt attaches to the body causing a similar affect seen in your photos. 2) If everything checks out above, check the positioning of the tail lamp. If the tail lamp is not fully pushed forwards (towards the drivers seat) the bottom of the tail lamp can prevent the bumper from seating properly and slightly push it out, similar to what you have going on. Check this as well. |
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#12 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Allen
Posts: 46
Drives: 2011 370z 6MT
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Finally was able to working in dropping my car off with my mechanic yesterday to look at the cross member. Good news is that there isn't other damage he could find, the no brainer part is that ya, need to replace the cross member. Leaving it like that could cause more stress and wear on the tires.
Trying to find a DIY thread on it. Not having any results. Is this something that is easily done? Looks like a simple bolt on and off. Any help on replacing this would be greatly appreciated. *no idea how much he is going to charge me yet. He is still looking for the part. Will know by Monday on how much. Last edited by Vorttam; 07-26-2014 at 01:46 PM. |
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#13 (permalink) |
Premium Member
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Location: martinsburg wv
Posts: 2,073
Drives: 2011 370z MB/7at
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I have the same issue and it drives me crazy but I should have my new body kit in the next few days so hopefully it won't be an issue any more. I also have a 2011
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#15 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Allen
Posts: 46
Drives: 2011 370z 6MT
Rep Power: 12 ![]() |
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1,700.00 worth of damage under the body. I am beyond fukeing pissed off right now. I learned a very pricey lesson. Every used car that I plan to buy I will always take it to my mechanic for a look over. I can not really ignore the problem and just use the shitty welding job that who ever dip Sh!t owned the car before did. Doing so will result in faster tire wear and alignment issues. There goes that exhaust upgraded I wanted to do.
Last edited by Vorttam; 08-07-2014 at 06:02 PM. |
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