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-   -   This Plasti Dip product is Awesome! (http://www.the370z.com/exterior-interior/40677-plasti-dip-product-awesome.html)

b1adesofcha0s 05-01-2012 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 864Zbeast (Post 1696292)
Yeah I figured it wouldn't work. Thanks for the reassurance!

No problem. I've already wasted my time on it, don't want anyone else to do the same.

zellsexy 05-05-2012 09:14 PM

:(
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by M.Bonanni (Post 1252916)
Yep. Just sprayed the whole handle.

For Synack. It's a little dusty from a windy night last night (yes my car has to sleep outside until I can sell some of the big stuff taking up my side of the garage).

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...dip_handle.jpg

And now here's the rest of the stuff I plasti-dipped today. Did the Z emblems and peeled off the area covering the light portion just leaving the Z and outer ring black...

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p..._emblems_3.jpg

And did the front fangs which turned out ok. Up close the edges didn't do so well and it looks like a poor masking job but it turned out good enough for now. I will eventually switch to a better solution.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ip_fangs_1.jpg

And the whole package...
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ip_fangs_2.jpg

hey how did you do the front fang area? my **** peeled in the corners and it looked ugly =/

nmjaxx9 05-06-2012 11:04 AM

^^ that looks really clean and good :tup:

Alchemy 05-06-2012 11:15 AM

Re-dipped my fangs last weekend. Also dipped the side mirrors.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...5642812167.jpg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...5642832781.jpg

LakeShow 05-06-2012 11:46 AM

^^Blue and black contrast looking good.

Alchemy 05-06-2012 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LakeShow (Post 1706413)
^^Blue and black contrast looking good.

:tiphat:

Random Strata 05-08-2012 09:01 PM

Ok so I bought this plasti dip and was planing on painting my wheels and door handle but then I thought, I want to see what it looks like when it matches my car paint.

Anyone know a good place to find Platinum Graphite?

I looked at Duplicolor for a match and found BNS0564 at Autozone but when I went there they didn't have it and they searched their computers and found out that that color wasn't available from duplicolor.

bdavis89 05-08-2012 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Random Strata (Post 1710520)
Ok so I bought this plasti dip and was planing on painting my wheels and door handle but then I thought, I want to see what it looks like when it matches my car paint.

Anyone know a good place to find Platinum Graphite?

I looked at Duplicolor for a match and found BNS0564 at Autozone but when I went there they didn't have it and they searched their computers and found out that that color wasn't available from duplicolor.

Keep in mind duplicolor won't come off like plastidip. You could check into dipyourcar.com? I think they can make custom colors, and maybe something if you gave them the color code?

Random Strata 05-08-2012 09:32 PM

I was actually going to plasti dip the rims and door handle first, then paint over that. I checked dipyourcar.com and didn't see any options for custom colors, I'll try emailing them just in case.

Thanks

b1adesofcha0s 05-08-2012 09:36 PM

I don't know if they'll be able to color match a custom color for you. The closest you could probably get would be a black base coat with the silver metalizer over it. I used this combo to get a dark gunmetal color for my wheels. I think if you spray more of the metalizer than I did (3 coats) you can get a lighter gray color closer to what the PG is.

batman_4 05-21-2012 05:28 PM

i have a question for the plasti-dip pros. i applied 5 coats to my rear valence with 20-30 minute intervals of drying. after my last coat i waited about 2hrs before removing my painters tape and when i did the plasti-dip came with it, leaving torn edges around my whole valence. what did i do wrong (1st time using this product)? every video i see on youtube the person just start peeling and the plasti-dip always breaks away from the part of interest without issues.

Dembflyr 05-21-2012 07:59 PM

If you want a clean line the. You need to build up a thick coat and pull the tape while it is still wet.

bdavis89 05-21-2012 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by batman_4 (Post 1729905)
i have a question for the plasti-dip pros. i applied 5 coats to my rear valence with 20-30 minute intervals of drying. after my last coat i waited about 2hrs before removing my painters tape and when i did the plasti-dip came with it, leaving torn edges around my whole valence. what did i do wrong (1st time using this product)? every video i see on youtube the person just start peeling and the plasti-dip always breaks away from the part of interest without issues.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dembflyr (Post 1730136)
If you want a clean line the. You need to build up a thick coat and pull the tape while it is still wet.

Correct sir!

PlastiDip - Masking, Lines and Stripes on Your Car - How to PlastiDip in Sections - YouTube

batman_4 05-22-2012 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dembflyr (Post 1730136)
If you want a clean line the. You need to build up a thick coat and pull the tape while it is still wet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdavis89 (Post 1730163)

thank you guys :tiphat:

i will have my 2nd attempt tmrw

nmjaxx9 05-29-2012 10:01 PM

just did a trial run with the plasti dip, actually is much darker in person, the plasti dip I got with like 4-5 coats is a very dark shade of black almost a lil glossy too. Since I didn't have enough time tonight I just removed the front plsti dipped emblem, I will be doing all the emblems sometime this week and post pics. Should be interesting how they turn out, and as mentioned masking is the most important part, something I learned on my trial run. :tiphat:

Footloose301 05-30-2012 11:02 AM

Thank god this stuff peels off so you guys will be able to save the car alas. Don't want it to be mistaken for a Honda...

nmjaxx9 05-30-2012 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Footloose301 (Post 1744541)
Thank god this stuff peels off so you guys will be able to save the car alas. Don't want it to be mistaken for a Honda...

:icon17:

nmjaxx9 05-30-2012 11:03 AM

gonna get started on mine now, will post pics soon. :tup:

Random Strata 06-04-2012 11:27 AM

Has anyone tried the Plasti Dip Smoke yet?

I ended up doing my wheels and door handle and realized that the headlights and tail lights now stick out like a sore thumb. I was thinking of giving this a try but I'm not sure how it will look.

b1adesofcha0s 06-04-2012 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Random Strata (Post 1753175)
Has anyone tried the Plasti Dip Smoke yet?

I ended up doing my wheels and door handle and realized that the headlights and tail lights now stick out like a sore thumb. I was thinking of giving this a try but I'm not sure how it will look.

Well if it's texture is like every other kind of plasti dip, then it will probably be terrible. You don't want your headlights/tail lights to look like they have a coat of rubber on them. They look good with a smooth finish which plasti dip will never give you.

kfull 06-08-2012 06:42 PM

would you guys say that plasti dip also provides some protection against paint chips from little pebbles that get kicked up?

Huck 06-08-2012 07:08 PM

Absolutely. I would go as far as saying that I think plastidip provides almost, if not the same, level of protection as a clear bra.


Sent from my iPhizzle using magic and new fangled science stuff

2ndChance 06-10-2012 11:09 PM

Third layer drying...almost 2 cans.

Cheap polyurethane sunline replica lip.

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/5350/dsc03206lt.jpg

RC24 06-20-2012 01:42 PM

Got a question for those who have done the fangs. I am going to take this project on in the very near future, but would like to know how you guys dealt with the masked edges. I am going to use 3M edgelock tape, but want to be sure that when I pull the tape off, the Plasti Dip doesnt come up at the edges. Are you guys scoring the edges with an X-Acto or anything?

osbornsm 06-20-2012 02:52 PM

Take the tape off while it's still wet... Xacto will cut the clearcoat most likely.

RC24 06-22-2012 10:30 AM

With 3 or 4 coats you need to wait for each coat to dry before spraying the next down though... I sprayed my badges yesterday and even with being extremely careful with removing the masking tape, I had the Plasti Dip come up at a few of the corners, and even rip along one of the edges that was masked. The emblems came out even better than I had expected, but I am worried about how the finished fangs will come out at the masked edges...

b1adesofcha0s 06-22-2012 10:33 AM

Anyone here with plasti dipped wheels have any luck with getting tires changed? Had mine swapped on Tuesday and it messed up the plasti dip. I had to take it all off. I'm considering just painting the wheels now instead, but want that same dark gun metal color I had before.

kenchan 06-22-2012 10:51 AM

i suppose also 'protected' your wheels from potential scuff marks? :)

b1adesofcha0s 06-22-2012 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 1785495)
i suppose also 'protected' your wheels from potential scuff marks? :)

That they did. Though it was partially because I went to some ghetto tire place based on my cousin's advice and recommendation. Never doing that again. Besides my wheels were a bit rashed from before (which the plasti dip covered very well) so I want to something to change up the look. I think paint would look better and be easier to clean than plasti dip. Not worried about messing up the wheels anymore.

kenchan 06-22-2012 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b1adesofcha0s (Post 1785508)
That they did. Though it was partially because I went to some ghetto tire place based on my cousin's advice and recommendation. Never doing that again. Besides my wheels were a bit rashed from before (which the plasti dip covered very well) so I want to something to change up the look. I think paint would look better and be easier to clean than plasti dip. Not worried about messing up the wheels anymore.

hey if you're going to paint it using wheel paint, i recommend using this stuff to smooth out the rashes you have. it works great. :tup:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

b1adesofcha0s 06-22-2012 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 1785588)
hey if you're going to paint it using wheel paint, i recommend using this stuff to smooth out the rashes you have. it works great. :tup:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

Thanks, I'll look into it! Don't really have much painting experience though, hope it turns out well.

Plan on sanding the wheels down, then primer, paint, and clear. At which point of this process should I use that stuff? Also, am I missing any steps in my process? How many coats of primer, paint, and clear should I use? Sorry for all the questions, but I get the feeling that you know a lot more about this stuff than I do. I'm planning on using Dupli Color's graphite wheel paint to get a similar gun metal color.

kenchan 06-22-2012 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b1adesofcha0s (Post 1785617)
Thanks, I'll look into it! Don't really have much painting experience though, hope it turns out well.

Plan on sanding the wheels down, then primer, paint, and clear. At which point of this process should I use that stuff? Also, am I missing any steps in my process? How many coats of primer, paint, and clear should I use? Sorry for all the questions, but I get the feeling that you know a lot more about this stuff than I do. I'm planning on using Dupli Color's graphite wheel paint to get a similar gun metal color.

i usually try to remove all the protruding metal of the curbage first using a file, then clean the area with either paint-prep or rubbing alcohol. i suggest remove all wax from the rest of your wheels using alcohol at this point. then apply this stuff, let it dry. then take your sand paper and sand it smooth to match the contour of your wheel.

then wipe the wheel using a paper towel with just water, use a tack towel to remove the rest of the dust. then apply primer. atleast 2 coats. do the tack towel again to remove any loose primer. then hit it with you base coat followed by clear.

b1adesofcha0s 06-22-2012 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 1785687)
i usually try to remove all the protruding metal of the curbage first using a file, then clean the area with either paint-prep or rubbing alcohol. i suggest remove all wax from the rest of your wheels using alcohol at this point. then apply this stuff, let it dry. then take your sand paper and sand it smooth to match the contour of your wheel.

then wipe the wheel using a paper towel with just water, use a tack towel to remove the rest of the dust. then apply primer. atleast 2 coats. do the tack towel again to remove any loose primer. then hit it with you base coat followed by clear.

Thanks for the help, you have been repped sir :tiphat:

twinturbonet 06-22-2012 12:45 PM

I would spend the $90 a wheel and just have a professional paint your wheels (since you have no experience in painting :)). I plasti-dipped my stockers in white and although they came out good, I'm going to remove the dip and have them paint the stocks white next week. They are also doing the NISMO engraving in black/red.

I'm considering asking them to do my stock lug nuts in red as well. I know that continuous removal of the lugs will strip the paint eventually, but I barely remove my lugs for anything so I should be good for a while.

kenchan 06-22-2012 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b1adesofcha0s (Post 1785691)
Thanks for the help, you have been repped sir :tiphat:

hey thanks. GL with your project! :tup:


Quote:

Originally Posted by twinturbonet (Post 1785767)
I would spend the $90 a wheel and just have a professional paint your wheels (since you have no experience in painting :)). I plasti-dipped my stockers in white and although they came out good, I'm going to remove the dip and have them paint the stocks white next week. They are also doing the NISMO engraving in black/red.

I'm considering asking them to do my stock lug nuts in red as well. I know that continuous removal of the lugs will strip the paint eventually, but I barely remove my lugs for anything so I should be good for a while.

in my area it's 125-150 per wheel to fix and paint. if you're willing to pay that, great. :tup:

b1adesofcha0s 06-22-2012 01:07 PM

Yeah I'm definitely not paying that much. Actually I did paint my brake calipers and they turned out pretty well.

http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/...z/IMAG1320.jpg


Just in case you're wondering, here is that aftermath of the tire change :icon17:

http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMAG1391.jpg

b1adesofcha0s 06-22-2012 01:12 PM

I might try to do it on Sunday if I have time. How many cans of primer, paint, and clear do you think I will need? I think 1-2 cans of primer, 2-3 of paint, and 1-2 of clear might be good.

Huck 06-22-2012 01:22 PM

Going on the powder coat subject, I've been thinking about getting my base rims done in a gunmetal color, then doing the protruding edge on each of the 5 spokes in a white. I have to try to shop up some pics to get a visual.


Sent from my iPhizzle using magic and new fangled science stuff

b1adesofcha0s 06-22-2012 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Huck (Post 1785842)
Going on the powder coat subject, I've been thinking about getting my base rims done in a gunmetal color, then doing the protruding edge on each of the 5 spokes in a white. I have to try to shop up some pics to get a visual.


Sent from my iPhizzle using magic and new fangled science stuff

Yeah a photoshop might help, but the way I'm imagining it in my head is not so good. I say just leave the wheels all gunmetal and they'll look pretty awesome.

2ndChance 06-24-2012 11:39 PM

After painting my handles 3 times.. I decided plastidip is not the best option for durability... So I removed it and used primer+paint matte black spray instead, it looks smoother and it can be retouched anytime. As for durability it seems to be more scratch resistant than plastidip.


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